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Akumu - D4 Oxygen
some notes using the Gear Drive...

I like that the gear drive gives me 40/17T or a 2.35 reduction that allows me to use bigger teeth pinions on my 90T spur. had by default the car setup with a 23T pinion (9.19 FDR) when i first tested it and it was slow... very slow. I changed to a 26T pinion, this gave me an 8.13 FDR and i loved how responsive the car felt immediately, swapped out to a 30T pinion which gave me a 7.05 FDR... gettimg too much wheel spin with 60 to 80% throttle settings on my controller. I need to get me a 25, 27 to 29T... for experimentation. hehehe
additional notes on the Usukani Gear Drive...

Locktite the moving parts... the spur gear holders grub screw unscrewed itself 2x, on the last it flew off. I have never had issues like this on belts or even my pro-d which had an 8.5T motor. The center gear and diff gear... those are locktite from the start, so hopefully i wont get into any issues running it for a while.

Some of the parts came in, the Sakura Ultimate FR+0 mounts and the 3racing pivot balls for it...

[Image: akumu-d4-06-2017-01.png]

I ran into issues installing this piece, if you ran stock or alloy wiper steering then i dont think you would have the problems i experienced, but because I have the curve slide track steerng installed... it hits the front bearing mounts causing binds on the steering... defintitely unmountable. I had to shave off a few milimeters, actually I grineded until you dont see the silver part anymore (not sure how much because i kept test fitting and did not measure anymore).

Here is how it looks having shaved less than half of the way...
[Image: akumu-d4-06-2017-02.png]

these pieces will be deanodized when the silver Usukani lower arms I ordered arrives.... in about a weeks time.

Thanks for viewing!
just got word from my usukani supplier that there will be a 1 month delay on my order so i cancelled it and deanozied the front lower arms yesterday.

[Image: akumu-d4-deanodized.png]

i've decided that I will just get the Yeah Racing adjustable rear lower arm come july and deanodize that too. Does anyone have any experience running that part?

Thanks for viewing!
A friend of mine suggested i reverse the gear of the usukani gear drive and reverse my motor rotation to suite. Turned out to be a chore, SP ESC is really mediocre and the software for it does not even run properly on my Win10 computer, SP motors are good... used them a long time, this must be my 6th brand new motor. Anyways, i replaced almost all my electronics with a 2nd set i had layin around. Installed a Sanwa 471 reciever (smaller footprint), Tekin Pro ESC, Eagle Racing metal case gyro and Yokomo 10.5T motor... geez i thought i reversed the motor wires and fried it. I had a really good deal on a used Tekin 10.5T Redline motor so i swapped the Yokomo out. Using my tekin hotwire, i configured the ESC to run the motor in reverse... Tekin is reliable, their software is backwards compatible with their older ESC models... SP should follow suite coz you really suck! hehehe

[Image: akumu-d4-07-2017-01.png]

I have not tested it on the track, but i did not feel a significant difference running it in the dinning area... aside from the noise it generated compared to the stock gear setup, i did not see any difference in performance. So im thinking it really needs track time. I'll report back when i get to really test it.

Thanks for viewing!
The usukani top arms v2 has been sitting here on my table for more than a month. The problem i faced was the Oxygen chassis top arm shaft was about 2.6mm in diameter and i did not want to use my drillpress and a 2.5mm bit to increase the hole size of the usukani top arms, i kept looking for the best way to do this without introducing slop.

About 3 weeks ago i searched and found 2.6mm drill bits and ordered it, too more than a week to get here and clashed with my SCX10 build so i had to put it on hold. Anyways, it worked perfectly, the 2.6mm China made bits are spot on and the shaft fit without slop.

[Image: akumu-d4-09-2017-01.jpg]

sorry for the crappy phone cam pic. I'll post proper pics of the arms installed tomorrow.

Btw, here is a picture of the deanodized FR one piece mount which i grinded so that the slide track would fit...

[Image: akumu-d4-09-2017-02.jpg]

Thanks for viewing!
here are some photos of the usukani top arm installed...

[Image: akumu-d4-09-2017-03.png]

[Image: akumu-d4-09-2017-04.png]

thanks for viewing!
Yo, I have noticed you use Usukani front knuckles. How much steering lock do you get from them?

I currently run Boom Racing ones, but my wheels hit the upper arms.

I am hesitating about buying some knuckles with bigger scrub radius or just running rims with bigger offset.

Not sure how both options would with my body though.
i use variable offset wheels from Team Tetsujin, depending on the body width i just adjust from 6mm to 12mm depending on the wheel style i use.

i have recently been playng around with my wheel lock... i think i have them somewhere around 70° to 80° now, i have not done real measurements and still doing test.
Actually, I have tried the Tetsujin rims yesterday and it worked good. With spacers I got 11mm offset in front.

With lifted chassis I got to almost 90° while my steering arms got stuck. On the ground it was around 70°.

So I guess I will get higher offset wheels and continue tweaking afterwards.
yep the degrees of lock you get should be measured with the wheels on the ground... my steering arms get stuck too when I lift the whole front of the car, binding happens on the slide track turnbuckles

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