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Clean slate, need help
#1
Info 
Heads up for the long post, there is a TL;DR thingy below XD

BACKGROUND
So I'm pretty new to the whole car racing scene. I used to fly planes but got tired of that pretty quickly because wind is a thing. I always loved cars growing up so I decided to go into rc cars, specifically drifting them. I would get the crappy walmart ones but find that they are just too cheap and last about a month or so before it goes to crap. So it's time for me to invest in some high performance crap like the ones in magazines.

I have always loved arcade and racing sims, so much so that I built a racing rig that features a modified G27 racing wheel to simulate driving. And ever since NFSU2 came out (best arcade game), I have always exploited the drifting feature in that game. I also avidly play rally games and racing sims that actually have solid physics engines. So I am not really afraid of diving into CS over 50/50 for a beginner. I know how to drift/how to initiate drifts in simulations so I don't think it would be too big of a stretch to learn. Feel free to tell me wrong, and why XD

I am however a poor engineering student, so my budget is limited to at MOST $370 for now. I figure if I get better/hindered by my vehicle, then I can upgrade it. So I just want something that can get me started but has the best performance for the initial amount. I understand that most will require mods to the pulleys/gears? Not sure on the terminology yet for belt driven models. and also mods to the diffs. Keep in mind I am very mechanically minded so I can handle myself with most problems.

So if TL;DR: I like rc cars. I know how to drift/ know the "theory" behind it. I want to spend around 200-370 and go from there. Completely open to suggestions, I have been doing a lot of research and just need peoples opinions.

HELP ME WITH:
What chassis/start out model? I have been looking at
Tamiya TA03
MST MS01D RTR

What mods are important?
Some people say hot glue the diff, others say buy a locking one. Any info over mods would be good!

Best place to buy clear bodies?

Any tips for a beginner with CS?
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#2
I run a d3 , love it. Lots of people like the tt01,2,3,4,5.
As for bodies, play around on rcmart.com
"I drift not because it is a quicker way around a corner, but it is the most exciting way..."
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#3
As for suggestions, you've stated MST MS-01D RTR.
I would keep looking at that, since you get alot for your money. Not just quality wise, but also from an adjustability point of view.
Yes I know it doesn't come with turnbuckles, but at least the links are adjustable since it's got threaded rods (cheap RTR's usually have fixed length links).

TA-03 is an ancient car (released in '97-'98), parts are getting hard to find, and cost an arm and a leg. So forget that, and get something recent.
There's no such ting as a TT-03, 04 or 05. The TT-02 is the newest TT chassis. I'm guessing Juggernaut meant the TA series, as that goes to 06.

If you're prepared to spend $9 more. You can get the MST MS-01D RTR Brushless from Blackstar (it's the only MST dealer in the US I know).
Don't go for the older brushed one, you'll be able to keep the electronics longer, without having to upgrade.

Here's a link for it:
http://blackstarhobbies.com/index.php?ma...ts_id=1725
[Image: 1.jpg]
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#4
I was already looking at the brush less model, and yeah I've been doing more research and have found the appeal for the sakura since its way cheaper. Tamiya is basically out for me. Its just a tossup of fully building a sakura or buying an MST. I'm still weighing things out.
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#5
MST has more adjustability out of the box. And already has A-arms, and C-hub less suspension and easy caster adjustment.
These are things you'll need to get ekstra, and or retrofit to a Sakura.
[Image: 1.jpg]
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#6
I'm not sure what an ekstra is. Could you explain?
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#7
The suspension on MST's is either A-arm or Y-arm (depending on what terminology you use).
This means that there is no C-hub restricting steering lock.
It looks like this (the upper left hand corner shows it really well)

[Image: MST-XXX-D-VIP-RED-page.jpg]


The Sakura comes with traditional suspension, which features a C-hub.
You can't get as much lock as with an A-arm setup. And as so, if you'd decide to get A-arm suspension on the Sakura, you'll probably spend quite a bit of money, before you've got all parts to fit it to the chassis (with MST, you get a-arm suspension out-of-the-box).
A traditional suspension setup looks like this:

[Image: Overdose-C-hub-and-Knuckle-for-Yokomo-DP-1-600x350.jpg]

Also, take note of how wide the lower suspension arm is. This restricts lock as well, as you'd probably hit the arm at some point as well.
[Image: 1.jpg]
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