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Domo's rwd d3 build
#61
I used to try my Sakura Zero S Knuckles on my MS-01D and ended up with an angle that a touring car can achieve more. So I used the stock Knuckles at the position recommended and got the lock I want, with a little Ackerman geometry setup. You can just get the knuckles that I showed at a link a few pages before, or get the MST KPI knuckles. Then position the ball ends at the position that you want to make it wider.
Sakura Zero S - Racer, part time drifter.
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#62
(11-22-2013, 09:51 AM)AmirF35 Wrote:  I used to try my Sakura Zero S Knuckles on my MS-01D and ended up with an angle that a touring car can achieve more. So I used the stock Knuckles at the position recommended and got the lock I want, with a little Ackerman geometry setup. You can just get the knuckles that I showed at a link a few pages before, or get the MST KPI knuckles. Then position the ball ends at the position that you want to make it wider.

The ball end arms seem counter productive. It's supposed to give you more lock, but moves the damper closer to the wheel. If I can find some good ones(ball end arms), I won't be such a pessimist and try to finish the build.
Currently working on a RWD Sakura D3 Check out my --->build thread^^

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#63
(11-21-2013, 10:04 PM)L3gTxDomo Wrote:  So here are the parts I ordered
[Image: Thewrongfuckingparts_zpsb61f561b.jpg]

The knuckles don't fit on the c-hub, so I couldn't use them on the oem arm.
[Image: Stupidknuckles_zps6d89523f.jpg]

Here is the supension arm installed. Like I said, the arm is too narrow/small/whatever
[Image: Stupidsuspension_zpsc8129fae.jpg]

I used some spare parts I had to try to keep it in place. It works...kinda. It gives me adjustable caster
[Image: Cleveranti-rollmod_zps5ff5fee9.jpg]

It can slide back and forth on the pin
[Image: Fuckthis_zpsfc023e7c.jpg]

[Image: fuckthistoo_zps82a61f93.jpg]

It didn't even give me more lock. The turnbuckles on the steering wipers hit the bulkhead, so the whole thing was kinda pointless
[Image: Fuckthislock_zps0f4cd7eb.jpg]

[Image: Fuckthislocktoo_zps52a83999.jpg]
Those lower arms could actually work for your setup. I saw someone on here with a d3 using those exact same lower arms. I'm using those with my eagle tt01 cs setup as well. You just use those small silver spacers to keep the lower arms from sliding around and position them forward for caster. Forward just enough that your wheelbase is still similar. Your upper arm needs to be not loose also. Your getting there, but still need some little parts here and there. Just keep looking at other people's setup and learn from them.
[Image: 4028172207455215s.jpg]
Overdose Drift Package RWD
CER D08 Premium RWD
Yokomo DRB Overdose RWD
Ce-RX type R White Wolf RWD
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#64
(11-23-2013, 03:17 AM)lougc8 Wrote:  
(11-21-2013, 10:04 PM)L3gTxDomo Wrote:  
Those lower arms could actually work for your setup. I saw someone on here with a d3 using those exact same lower arms. I'm using those with my eagle tt01 cs setup as well. You just use those small silver spacers to keep the lower arms from sliding around and position them forward for caster. Forward just enough that your wheelbase is still similar. Your upper arm needs to be not loose also. Your getting there, but still need some little parts here and there. Just keep looking at other people's setup and learn from them.

Thanks for the tip! Do you have a link of where you saw it?
Currently working on a RWD Sakura D3 Check out my --->build thread^^

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#65
http://forum.driftmission.com/Thread-eun...pCH3OLNksI
D3 with Kpi mods are all over the forum, this should help you.;)
[Image: 4028172207455215s.jpg]
Overdose Drift Package RWD
CER D08 Premium RWD
Yokomo DRB Overdose RWD
Ce-RX type R White Wolf RWD
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#66
So I tried what Lougc8 showed me, but I didn't like it. It didn't really give me any more lock. And also with the aluminum upgraded c-hubs with my "Adjustable caster mod" gives it plenty of caster. The only thing restricting more turning angle is the fornt bulkhead and the knucles bumping the c-hub. This build might take a while to get it where I want it to be


Also: D3 owners How do you adjust the rear belt so it's not so tight? Do you put it in a certain hole in the bulkhead?
Currently working on a RWD Sakura D3 Check out my --->build thread^^

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#67
2 ways to adjust the rear belt tension. There is an idler bearing just in front of the axle that you can adjust up and down but is a pain to get to due to the bulkheads in the way. The other way is the little screws holding the bearing holder in the bulkhead. Take the screws out and turn them to tension it up.

Also to get ridiculous front lock use the mst front knuckle setup as the arm is very short and will turn heaps but only if it is not driven. You will need to do a c hub delete this for that to work.
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#68
(11-24-2013, 04:23 AM)Rustykaos Wrote:  2 ways to adjust the rear belt tension. There is an idler bearing just in front of the axle that you can adjust up and down but is a pain to get to due to the bulkheads in the way. The other way is the little screws holding the bearing holder in the bulkhead. Take the screws out and turn them to tension it up.

Also to get ridiculous front lock use the mst front knuckle setup as the arm is very short and will turn heaps but only if it is not driven. You will need to do a c hub delete this for that to work.

-The rear belt is too tight without the tensioner in the rear. I was talking about hole position(s)
-I was already in the process of the c-hub delete, but I doesn't do very much because the turnbuckles hit the bulkhead(as explained previously). I will try to get some better Y-arms and knuckles
Currently working on a RWD Sakura D3 Check out my --->build thread^^

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#69
When I tried the mst knuckle because the arms on the knuckle were very short I was getting full lock with a still at least a 5mm gap between the the bulkheads. Got any pics of the knuckle and steering setup you have.
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#70
Get wun lower arms then you can widen the front track and achieve more lock
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