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Eagle R31 RWD Help Please!
#1
Hey guys! Here is my new Eagle R31-16FM RWD...This is my first belt setup drift chassis with a Gyro, My last setup was a HPI E10..

I'm having some trouble getting this guy going and would appreciate any help. When i just press the throttle, the car kinda wants to spin on its own, and will keep doing that unless i really ease on the throttle then it goes in a strait line. Then when i let off the steering and keep holding the throttle, it seems the wants to continue moving that direction? Hard to explain Ill make a video of it asap. Im trying to go off the settings YouTube User "BlueStar" said but it seems that something is still funky...

Its SUPER hard to control compared to my last RC and am wondering if I screwed something up or if i just suck with RWD RC and need more practice. I think it might be the Gyro settings, or possibly something else? Tires? I can give more details on setup if anyone is even willing to help me out! Thanks guys!

Alright guys this is what she looks and sounds like...If you guys can think of anything that would help this NOOB out lol that would be super helpful!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uqmcDkodOnA

**Notice when i full throttle, it gets really loud, is that normal on belt chassis?**
***I see that it rubs a tiny bit against the shell in the back, i think this is the source of the noise but am not sure because it doesn't happen all the time.**

My guess of the problems are...
1. Gyro - not in the right place? maybe too much gain? I know nothing about them besides the few videos on youtube i watched.
2. Tires - Using the stock tires this came with, hard plastic. Also tried a softer tire, it helped but was still really unstable in drifts. drifting on polished, dusty, concrete floor
3. Steering Servo - Possibly im not used to this extreme angle in the front so when i go into full lock, it spins my car more than it should?
4. Balance - The car is not balanced correctly? Ride height in front and back is same. 6mm.
5. Differential- Using the stock Diff. The one that came with the kit...what kind of Diff is this?

That's all I can think of for now...
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#2
Check if the gyro is helping you counter steer. If you shake the chassis side to side, it should counter steer to the direction you point it. Seems like it's your first time to try rwd, very smooth and light throttle input is required. Can't give it alot of throttle or constantly spin.
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#3
That's a big leap between chassis. Check the gyro and check the rwd section here. Also realize rwd is Completely different from 4wd. Not to mention your change in chassis was like apples vs oranges.
Team Ghost Drift
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Eagle  R31 RWD
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#4
It looks like a combination of things but more than anything it seems like you need to get some practice in. Like rudeboy said that's a pretty big leap from an E10 to Rwd.

I checked out the video. Double check belt tension. I couldn't tell but it sounded off.

Make sure your gyro is dialed in properly.

Play around with different tires. Tires play a HUGE part with rwd I've come to realize.

Also mess around with settings and figure out what works best for you. I tried to mirror blueststar's setup but it didn't work for me. It definitely pointed me in the right direction though.

My experience, it took me about a month of dialing and practice to feel comfortable driving. Give it some time and try new things. You'll get it
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#5
that chassis comes ready to drift right of the box. I made mine drift the first try. the gyro works flawlessly. all you need is to make sure where are you drifting. the tires that comes with the kit are crap on any surface. I put sticky/medium tires at front and super hard/slick rear. The gyro will keep the chassis counter steering even if you let the wheel alone. test/check the gyro connection. that chassis is the best bang for the buck. we own 3 and we havent done anything to it. You'll be a pro in a few days with the gyro....lol. good luck...if you want to see my video of the first try PM.
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Here For the love of RC Drifting
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#6
I run soft MST tires in the rear & hard up front, im a noob to, driven it one day since i got it finished.
Works really good on concrete & wood/plastic floors for me. It ´s all in the throttlefinger, you have to drive smooth.
I believe there are alot left to do on my car. Gotta play with setups & weights and stuff.
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#7
Like everyone says the tires your running for that surface isn't good. Though, I wouldn't say they are garbage. I ran those tires on carpets and they were great. For the surface you were running on, I'd consider using something softer but not extremely soft. Your rear tires should be softer than your front overall. Another thing is the the chassis out of the box sucks. They basically through everything together and slapped a sticker on it saying it's quality checked.. In otherwords, most of the parts are there. You'll need to go over the settings to make sure they are even or to desired angle. Go over all the screws and make sure they are tighten before they rattle off and lose spacers.

Install your gyro on the rear side of the car. The farther you install the gyro, the more sensitive it will be. Increasing the gain will emphasize the steering throw. Based off your video, it doesn't look like it's turned up enough. You'll know you've turned it too much when your wheels start to wobble.

That should get you a baseline tune at least.

RWD drift is on the low range throttle. Practicing with 45-60% throttle EPA is a good starting point. Throttle Rate should be about the same. If you can adjust these on your remote, that's even bettter. In most case, you can train your finger to do the same. Remotes just makes life easier with better results. Speed will come later as you stabilize your drifts.
Team Ghost Drift
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#8
Its hard to see the gyro action in the video, but it kinda looks backwards. With the car and radio on and no body. Try to stand behind chassis and move the rear to the right. What happened? Did the steering turn right or left. The front tires should turn towards the same direction your sliding the tail. Hope it helps!

Oh and if it is turning the wrong way you need to flip the gyro on the other end. Also with the eagle gyro it needs to be standing up on one of its skinny sides. It will not work if it is laying on its big flat side.

Here is an image how the gyro should be mounted. The setting screws should be on the side. Also there is a screw on the gyro to set center you need to turn dial till both red and green lights are on. Then center your steering either by servo horn position or the link going to the bell cranks.

Promoting radio controlled drifting to the masses since 2009
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#9
Hey everyone!

First off, wanted to say thank you for all of the advice, I really appreciate all the help! All the knowledge from you guys are really insightful and puts all the bits and pieces together. Haha you guys are right, the E10 sooo different. Apples to oranges indeed, initiating drifts and holding them with RWD is a completely different technique. I happen to drive a 240sx drift car in real life so it seems like I can translate some of that knowledge into this rc somewhat.? Seems like I have a lot to lean and test with this fancy ass RC.

1. Gyro
Did a lot more research, tuning, practicing last night.
Read up on the Gyro, I for sure had it laying the wrong way.
(It was a long night before trying to get interpreter the Japanese instructions/pictures)
So I placed it in the middle, right in front of the battery. When I sway the car to the right, it turns right, so now itâ€s making sense. Yea like you guys said, the Gyro was laying down and not on it's side! Thanks for clearing that up, it just seems silly to me it would be placed like that on it's side, maybe to save space **shrugs**

2. Tires
So I switched over to the HPI T-slicks, they helped a little, that's all I have on hand at the moment. I went ahead and ordered a set of some MST soft tires, a set of MST medium tires from, and the HEI-KO constant grips for the front. I'll go ahead and try the soft in the back, and harder in to front. And like you guys said, I'll have to change it up and see what works better. Seems to be all over the place, some say softer in back, harder in front, some say the opposite, who knows lol.

3. Servo/steering
Just some info on the servo...
CYS digital servo - .05 speed
It needed a glitch buster to make it work properly.
Yea it just seems like it will have to practice and learn this setup! I'm rocking -10 degrees in the front, -7 in the back. Not sure how to measure or adjust toe that easily. I have a droop/ride hight tool, and a camber measurement tool. Do you guys just take the "arms" off and just twist them smaller or larger till you get what you want? Not sure if there is a trick or something to make this guesswork easier. Thanks again!

4. Balance/suspension
I went with the green shocks it came with. 37.5 weight oil from my traxxas, I'll prolly have to switch it soon. So do you guys go with a stiffer (blue) spring in the back and softer(red or green) in the front? I saw that some of your guys switched out the internal components on the shocks, I will have to look into doing that soon.


Some Noob questions,
Question 1: I saw that you can adjust the droop with some screw...I must be overlooking it somehow because I can't seem to locate it.
Question2: Then I saw Bluestar4u adjust and measure his ride height by loading more pressure onto the springs of the coils. He then set the suspension by pressing down on it and letting the suspension bounce it back up. Then he used his tool to measure height. I did the same thing, set all the front and back height to 6mm, but when I move the steering from left to right once the rc is on, it seems to raise the front quite a bit. Like almost at 8-10mm. And then the back sags. Is this the proper way to measure ride height still? Possibly because the force of the RWD pushes down on the front?


Thanks again for the nicely put advice everyone.
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#10
3. I would highly recommend a BEC instead. Speed/Torque Servo's are known to have a high amp draw that causes a brown-out situation.

Q1: If I remember right, my droop screws weren't installed. Somewhere in the box should be a grub screw that acts like a stop for your arm. Also, You may want to find a way to lock the treading as they can be sometimes too loose to a point that they may fall out while driving.

Q2: It's normal. The caster on the wheels causes that to happen. If you have King Pin Inclination, that effect is even greater. I don't use the drop screws. My damper length limit the suspension stroke to where I need it to squat or dive.
Team Ghost Drift
[Image: TGD+official+WHITE+side+decal+Osaka-Sans...+edit1.png]
MST FXX-D VIP|MST FXX-D S|MST XXX-D S HT
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