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Genki's FR-D Ver. 2
If you really want black wires without rewiring it you can just throw some heat shrink around each wire
[Image: 405149244.jpg]
(04-24-2014, 11:24 AM)GenkiRF Wrote:  
(04-24-2014, 05:28 AM)AzN 2NR Wrote:  shes lookin beautiful, have you thought of using all black wires?

Thanks man! I did, but I'll be blacking out the wires using some black mesh sleeving.
The Heat sinks on these absorb heat so well, I don't have the confidence to re-wire it without overheating and damaging the ESC. =/
I really wish they released their all black wire versions when I was buying my ESC hahaha~
looking good!, i just put black heat shrink over my wires
So clean man. Looks really good.
[Image: KC_zpsd2cfde5e.jpg]
Thanks for the suggestions guys, I used the heat shrink method on my Type-C, so figured I'd try out some mesh sleeving this time around.
If it doesn't work out, I'll just use heat shrink again~
And thanks for all the kind words guys, the end is near, then I can finally start driving this thing ^^;

Yokomo Type-C - RWD
Wrap-Up Next FR-D - RWD
Genki, just curious where you got the WUN saddle pack holders from. I've been trying to get them from the usual suspects (RC-Art/Banzai/RCR&D) but they're sold out. Couldn't even locate them on the WUN site. Am I out of luck here?
Ask Anthony Lim (I believe his name on DM is antinnous), or drop Tetsujin a message on Facebook. I'm sure either one of those two can hook you up with what you're looking for.
I bought mine right when they were released from Banzai or Tetsujin, I can't remember. I'm sure WUN will do another production run on them, so I'm sure you can get your hands on a set.

Yokomo Type-C - RWD
Wrap-Up Next FR-D - RWD
I finally sleeved the wires...
[Image: 001_zps910ab5e0.jpg]

Yokomo Type-C - RWD
Wrap-Up Next FR-D - RWD
Wow, very nice man.
FR-D v3.0
Active FR Rwd - Forsale
Thanks man!

I got some more work done on the chassis today, cleaning up the motor wiring a bit more, and making a small enclosure to hide away the rest of the wire "clutter".

My chassis is basically done now, I'm just waiting on Overdose suspension mounts, and an Overdose servo mount now. As for the tune, I'm basically 99% done with it, REALLY happy with the way the car handles.

Here's a very rough run through my setup. I run on a very smooth flooring, it is similar to a counter tops surface.

For the front, I try to keep my alignment at 0* toe, or as close to obtaining 0* as possible.
If you are running toe out, you are essentially scrubbing off speed, something I try to avoid with my alignment settings.
[Image: 002_zps54d6512f.jpg]

My steering angle may not be as extreme as most peoples, but this is more than enough.
I can use the full range, and my wheels remain parallel throughout my steerings range.
By keeping the wheels parallel and running as close to 0 ackerman, you are once again limiting how much speed you will scrub through the corners.
The amount of speed you scrub becomes much more apparent during off throttle slide.
[Image: 003_zps30466616.jpg]

For my dampers, I run Tamiya TRF Works dampers, and run a modified 3 hole piston that has been slightly bored out.
I'm running a 20wt Team Associated oil in my dampers up front.
The springs are RC926 BLACK Hard springs top and bottom, with a spring diameter of 1.3mm.
The dampers are also outfitted with Kazama adjustable tops, which also run their option 3mm cap option, which has been fully extended.
I try to run as little preload as possible, and to help stiffen the front up a bit more, and obtain the ride height I was looking for, I also run a WUN mono damper attached to my upper arms.
[Image: 004_zpsfd942f3e.jpg]

As far as the knuckles go, I am running WUN GX knuckles.
I've paired them with some 7mm offset wheels, and run HPI A-Drifts up front.
I'm running 5g weights on the hub itself, and am also running MST wheel weights on the rims.
I also run 2 15g weights on my front bumper, pictured earlier.
[Image: 005_zps39bd56db.jpg]

For the rear, I run the stock Kazama adjustable tops, and 0 preload on the springs.
Springs are RC926 30mm BLUE soft springs.
The rear pistons are modded as well, which are 6 hole pistons. 3 of which are bored out, and 3 of which are 1mm.
The oil in the rear is 10wt Team Associated.
We call this an AFRO SPECIAL, our local track owner, named Afro, is a magician when it comes to building grip :mrgreen:
[Image: 008_zps4e452270.jpg]

I'm also running 0 toe in the rear to get the most grip possible from the T-Drifts.
I also don't run any droop front or rear.
[Image: 013_zps68c9c01c.jpg]

As for the weight tuning in the rear, I have 20g weights added to my diffuser, and 10g weights added to my damper tower.
I found the lower you mount the weights, the more the rear wants to kick out, and the higher you add the weights, the better the chassis will scrub.
These settings were ideal for myself.
There are also 2 5g weights being used for my rear saddle pack tie downs, which are not pictured here.
[Image: 011_zps74eed940.jpg]

I don't run any weights on my rear VX arms, and run Anthony mod CVD's Lol
[Image: 012_zps511cf9fb.jpg]

As for the wiring, I cleaned it up a bit, and made a small enclosure to hide the wire "clutter" as mentioned earlier. I think it came out great.
[Image: 006_zps9a9890c7.jpg]

That's basically how my car sits for now.
[Image: 001_zpsa8592598.jpg]

[Image: 007_zps935f5c4c.jpg]

I love how low the profile is on shaft drive chassis.
[Image: 009_zps3129c481.jpg]

[Image: 010_zpsd5cd4b8b.jpg]

Might need to wrap the batteries as well... because OCD hahaha.

Big thanks to the gang at Afro's RC, especially Afro and David for making the transition to RWD so easy.

Yokomo Type-C - RWD
Wrap-Up Next FR-D - RWD
This has been one of the best chassis builds I have seen. Awesome attention to detail.

Eagle Racing TT02 FRD
Sakura D3 & D4

Visit my blog: Mod19 RC
IG: @RexRacer19

[Image: IMG_2485c_zpsnoqm5qqh.jpg]

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