Genki's Overdose Type-C

[robb41488]

Holy crap that one-way tube is sick

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Holy crap that one-way tube is sick

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

best part is if you do a front motor conversion you dont have to buy the reversed FOW, just put the gear on the other side. genius.

Well, it's been way too long. With work being as busy as it was, as well as a few other things that happened, I didn't have a whole lot of time to do anything RC related. I finally have some time to myself again, so it's time to get back into drifting^^

**Sorry, not a lot of detailed installation pics this time around**

While I was taking a break from the hobby, I saw that Overdose was developing some new rear arms for the Drift Package. I decided I would be getting these. Some might ask "Why? You have the Active Hobby setup already"... while true, and true that I've never even used it, my car is basically a full Overdose build... so I simply figured "why not" LOL.


And looking at them, they are a very nice design. Beefy, offer more adjustability over stock, and look great. Something you come to expect when buying Overdose.


The quality of the aluminum is much better than the Active Hobby ones as well.


The arms came with some 3mm pins that taper into 2.5mm pins. They aren't really made for the Yokomo 0* toe blocks, for the best fit I went with some TN-Racing 0* rear toe blocks.


The suspension arms can be spaced out using spacers if you want to buy some, but they come with a grub screw that pinches the suspension arm pin and holds them in place. I opted to just use the grub screw. (Blurry pic, sorry)


Installing the hubs was easy too. The pin is held in place by a 6mm hex screw on both ends.


I opted to swap out the supplied black hardware for some Tsuiso Hobby Stainless Steel screws here as well. I really like the way the SS looks against the blue.


The suspension arms still retain holes to run some sway bars as well. That said, I could use these holes to still run the link setup, but I will opt not to for now.


Since I have ditched the link setup for now, you might remember that I originally shaved my Drift Package Rear Braces.


Luckly for me, the process was reversible, and I had them looking minty fresh again.... not. I bought a second set in case I fucked up the first ones. BUT, my planning knows no ends, since I have a use for them now T_T **PRO TIP: Don't spend money like me**


Now that these were installed, I also installed the rear camber links. I used a 36mm tie rod I believe, and installed it on the furthest outward hole on the hub.


And I installed the other end to the mounting points on the chassis braces. This will be my initial test point.


After that I added some tiny details to the rear end. I capped off the rear sway bar holes with some SS hardware, and capped off the diffuser posts as well for that fully studded look haha.


The rear end is looking great, not that it wasn't before. The link setup looked badass, but it just didn't match our current track surface. We are switching to carpet this year, so I may give the link setup another go when that time comes. Or I'll sell it off... either or. I'm undecided.


With the rear end completed, I took care of some more small details on the battery side. The battery tie down strap is held in place with two body clips, and if you're anything like me you lose them like they are nobodies business. To remedy this I bought some 60mm body clip wires made by Square RC.


For the rear I installed these on the rear chassis braces.


And for the front I installed it to the chassis using a 3mm nylon lock nut. With this I won't lose the body clips, and I now have some tiny pull tabs on the clips as well. Makes things a bit more convenient.


As for the battery, I didn't want it to damage the carbon with debris getting under it, so I installed this Kawada non slip pad. The down side is that it attracts debris haha...


Also, I didn't want my battery rubbing up against the rear drive cups, so I installed some Kawada thin cushion tape to the center bone of the chassis to space it away from the driveshaft.

---

Now the one thing I have put off for a long time now. Installing the electronics. While my car was sitting for 2 or so months, I played around with potential electronics setups quite a bit to find a setup I was happy with, and one that looked clean. Here's what I came up with.

For those that haven't followed, I'm running an Acuvance 9.5t Luxon BS Dual Motor, Keyence Tachyon Aria ESC, Acuvance Chevalier Boost Capacitor, Sanwa SRG BLS servo, and Sanwa RX472 Receiver.


I ended up running the Chevalier boost under my receiver, the antenna is tucked away under there as well.


I used some shrink wrap to tidy things up. I shrink wrapped the excess Servo wire, along with the ESC switch wire to black it out.


I would have liked to black out all the wires, but I'll add some black wire mesh to them another time. Big thanks to Joey, a friend at the club, for helping me with the wiring job.

Overall I am super happy with the way it all came together. Here's some random shots of my "completed for now" chassis...


One of the reasons I love shaft drive chassis. Look at how low the profile is.












So, what's left to do now?!?!?!...
-Add servo linkage for steering
-Add thread lock where needed
-Add grease to the gearboxes/gears
-Initial alignment
-THRASH THE SHIT OUT OF IT \,,/(>_>)

So in summary... I just need to get off my lazy ass, and get this thing done :devil:

Dialled!!

Simply Beautiful

[robb41488]

Wow dude what a stunner

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WOW! So this is what it looks like to completely overdose! Such a clean wiring job too.

Simply awesome! Why you don't put a nice rcart bumper?

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*drool

Thanks for all the kind words everyone, means a lot. It's been a long build process!

I spent a long time after work yesterday doing all the small things to get it ready for a shakedown~

-I built the steering linkage.
-I greased all the gears.
-Added loctite where needed.
-Created a base alignment to test with

I went with -1.5* rear camber, 8* front camber, 0* rear toe, roughly 2* front toe out, and a neutral ride height of 7mm all around.
I'm running a RC926 31mm spring kit on the car, with 1.2mm wire diameter (the softest setting). I started out with White Springs (softest of the kit) in the rear, and Black Sprigns (hardest) up front.

My wheelbase was shortened to retain my red 180sx I ran on the DIB so I didn't have to worry about painting another body to run the car.

After all this was taken care of, I headed off to Afro's RC for a late night shakedown. Here are my thoughts so far.

Pros
-This car has a lot of grip. All that added weight definitely contributed to that.
-I didn't really sense any torque steer... yet. I'll need more wheel time.
-Steering is great. I get a ton of angle, and no binding issues. The Active CVD's are working great, and the response I get from the Sanwa servo is excellent.
-For an all metal drive train, the car is quiet.
-Having instant power is awesome.
-The Keyence/Acuvance setup really is as smooth as they say.

Cons
-The steering wipers have some play in neutral position

As far as setup went, I had some understeer as expected, and I'll need to tune it out. Sometimes the front would bite and pull the car too. I also need to work on the front end/steering geometry. All these can be fixed, so I wouldn't consider them cons.

My overall impression is great though. I love this car. It's a completely different beast than my DIB was, and in a good way. I can't wait to dial it in and really start pushing it. I didn't spend any time tuning yesterday, I just ran a battery pack through it, and enjoyed my first drive. Even with some of the small setting issues I touched on earlier, it was easy to drive. I couldn't be happier with the car ^____^

I've always loved shaft drive cars. It's good to have one again.