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Lexan body modification
#1
Hi,

I'm new to the drift scene (but not RC, been doing RC for a while now, road and off road cars, and quads).  Got my 1st drift chassis all built and started to drift a little, but now it's time for a new drift body.  I've searched and see a lot of really nice bodies, but I've also notice these bodies all require modification to look nice.

This is where I'm stuck at, I'm waiting for my Tamiya RX-7 body to arrive along with Demi Works body kit.  How exactly do you know where to cut out the original body to fit the add on body parts. (i know how to cut well with an Xacto knife.)  How do you join the two cut pieces, hide the joint line, and won't a crash break the two pieces?  I've also read to use shoe goo.    

Does anyone know where i can find a guide to how on this. 

Thanks. 
Rev
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#2
Leave a little extra (around 1/4" if possible) on one of the pieces to use silicone adhesive to hold them together, the piece going behind the outer visible. Joint lines won't be 100% invisible, but the cleaner and straighter the cuts, and better the paint job it'll look like the real deal. It takes practice and patience.
I prefer clear RTV silicone adhesive as I've had ShoeGoo kinda ruin a paint job before, plus the RTV smells a little less harsh than ShoeGoo.
Yeah, harder crashes can/will cause them to come apart.
HPI Sprint 2 Flux - full carbon fiber/aluminum upgrades 50/50
HPI Sprint 2 Flux - RWD project
HPI RS4 Sport 3  - carbon fiber/aluminum shelf queen
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#3
(12-22-2015, 05:52 PM)wareagle84 Wrote:  Leave a little extra (around 1/4" if possible) on one of the pieces to use silicone adhesive to hold them together, the piece going behind the outer visible. Joint lines won't be 100% invisible, but the cleaner and straighter the cuts, and better the paint job it'll look like the real deal. It takes practice and patience.
I prefer clear RTV silicone adhesive as I've had ShoeGoo kinda ruin a paint job before, plus the RTV smells a little less harsh than ShoeGoo.
Yeah, harder crashes can/will cause them to come apart.

Thanks,

I've used silicon RTV before, but they don't really adhere well, does shoe goo mess up paint surfaces?  I've seen so many people recommend shoe goo.  :(
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#4
What's worked best for me...

I use these as rivets to attach most body pieces that have an overlap, like a fender. Don't bother threading, make a hole just big enough to punch it through then back it with a drop of hot glue. This is a very strong joint!
http://abchobbyusa.com/microscrewsetsilv...inset.aspx

For pieces like a front nose/bumper that are edge to edge I use shoe goo. I first cut a scrap piece of polycarbonate (if not provided i.e. addiction) to make a tab that goes on the inside of the body to give the shoe goo surface area to adhere on both pieces. Follow shoe goo directions because it really works best that way.

When cutting make sure you leave yourself a 1-2mm of extra material you can always trim. There are usually body panel lines on the body and cut lines on the body kit but nothing is perfect. In the end it's always trial and error, fit... trim...fit....trim...sand... repeat.

I'm in the process of building a Rx-7/demi works body too and it goes together fairly easily. The front bumper is the biggest challenging getting right, because you have to cut the old bumper off. The rest of the Demi Works body kit goes on with no necessary additional body cutting.

Good luck.
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#5
Thanks I've just ordered the ABC Hobby mini screws, I've also ordered a tube of Permatex 80050 Clear RTV Silicone Adhesive, and a tube of Shoe Goo going to spray some extra lexan and test bounding them together and will report back once I have all my pieces.
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#6
just an update the shoe goo bounds the two pieces of lexan really well compare to the silicone RTV stuff. but the shoe goo shrinks, and RTV is like hot glue does not shrink.
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