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My New D4 Rwd
#1
I just recently purchased a D4 rwd. Have built it up as to what I can without the electronics so far.

Compared to the team magic, the quality of parts seems rather poor.

Building the car was ok. However I made a few mistake putting the parts in the right way.
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Besides that, it was easy to assemble. However the recommended tension setting in the manual was a little to high. Loosened this setting 1 step down.

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I replaced the original hex adapters with alum disc brakes. In the end I had to remove the disc brakes in the front. It wasn't spinning as freely as it should be. I retained the rear disc brakes.

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Front lock seems rather small. Increased lower arm about 6 mm on both sides. Added 3mm spacers to original 5mm hex. Front wheels still don't spin as smoothly. Brought out the wd40 and kinda fixed the smoothness somewhat. Will alum knuckles actually improve the spin ? Will get that later I guess.

Next steps is to get basic electronics for the car.

Anyone tried skyrc motor combo ? Looking at the 10t combo. Or should I just get speed passion r 10.5t.

Thinking of a cheap Sanwa servo to go with the car. Srg-cs

Will get the same gyro as my other car.

For now will reuse some older radio.


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Team Magic - E4D(4) RWD - Sakura D4 RWD
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#2
Couldn't wait to test out the car. Stripped all the current electronics from my team magic after getting the pinion gear.


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After running for about 20mins . The back wheels were not turning. The pin from the driveshaft fell out. First tape on the shaft

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Overall the car is slower then expected. Maybe it's because of the 22t pinion ? However it is smoother and stickier then my old car. Very easy to control. Will need to test this on epoxy next time

Will definitely need to get knuckles later.


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Increased EPA Th to 80℅. Lowered gyro to about 30℅. And it felt like home again.
Team Magic - E4D(4) RWD - Sakura D4 RWD
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#3
Went to the track today. Someone was selling his slide rack steering. win !!!


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Installed in my car now. More steering angle. Yay !!!

Purchased new tires for my d4. Since this is the track standard. Have to learn how to use it. Its so slow.
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Reduced EPA settings for throttle for traction. Increased gyro sensitivity.

Car seems smoother with the tires. Drifts look nicer.
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Need to re set the car again.

Anyone having problem with front shocks and springs ? The spring don't seem to hold the front of the car.

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#4
I am by no means an expert as I am noob to rc rwd drifting. I noticed a similiar situation with the front shocks. I flipped the bottom c clip spring retaining piece upside down it stiffened up the front end and allows the springs to actually compress before i did that the lower arms basicallly moved up and down freely.
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#5
I did the same thing as you mentioned also. I flipped the spring retainers upside down. However, the springs will slip away from the position of the retainer after a few rounds.

I have tried some harder springs. They hold up but it's not the softness of dampening that I was looking for.

I also tried switching the rear springs to the front. They don't seem to hold either.

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#6
(02-01-2017, 06:12 PM)littlemonsta Wrote:  I did the same thing as you mentioned also. I flipped the spring retainers upside down. However, the springs will slip away from the position of the retainer after a few rounds.

I have tried some harder springs. They hold up but it's not the softness of dampening that I was looking for.

I also tried switching the rear springs to the front. They don't seem to hold either.

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You could try the monoshock that 3racing makes i like the looks of the design having it mount to the lower arms. I have the boomracing monoshock and didnt really like it. It mounts to the upper arm and i ran into the same sitution as before. I have sinced switched back to the regular shock configuration. What kind of droop are you running if you dont mind me asking. That is one aspect that i am completely lost on. I have read where guys run no droop front and rear and some dont even run the droop screws at all. I am currently running no droop in the rear and no droop screws at all in the front seems to maybe make the front end a little more responsive but i dont know lol like i said i am noob but like tinkering and learning!
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#7
I run without droop screws too. I try to run it as parallel as possible Or even higher. I think generally a higher centre of gravity will induce more roll in the chassis hence more sideways momentum during drifts.

From what I learnt so far, higher chassis. Really soft springs and lots of programming on the esc helps. However I don't have a programmable esc. You should be able to notice the car body lower at the back when accelerating and lowering in the front during braking.

After getting used to new tires I got. Which has very little grip. You will get longer drifts and less sudden corrections during a drift compared to a grippy tire combination I was using previously. I used to think that throttling during a drift like a real car. In rc it's the low throttle to maintain drifts. Throttle punches for entry speed and entry angle.

I'm also new to this. I am also tinkering and learning as I go along. I just don't want to keep buying the wrong items online.

Due to some local restrictions like battery mount location and tires , I am just following the local drifters and will boil down to the setup of car.

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#8
no droop screws on all my cars... i throw them away.! :D

the stock springs work fine for me, i find them quite nice that i use them on my TT02 RWD. I used the stock soft in the rear and the hard springs in front. the dampers needs TLC so I use TRF dampers with a modified piston, 4x1.5mm holes rear and for the front I just increased the hole size to 1.5mm. this setup allows for smoother dampening action. btw, i use the CF mono-shock mounts from hobbyking... for me they look better CF. hehe

we run our cars on concrete, we find its best to use MST silver dots all around.
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#9
(02-03-2017, 03:08 PM)vlozity Wrote:  no droop screws on all my cars... i throw them away.! :D

the stock springs work fine for me, i find them quite nice that i use them on my TT02 RWD. I used the stock soft in the rear and the hard springs in front. the dampers needs TLC so I use TRF dampers with a modified piston, 4x1.5mm holes rear and for the front I just increased the hole size to 1.5mm. this setup allows for smoother dampening action. btw, i use the CF mono-shock mounts from hobbyking... for me they look better CF. hehe

we run our cars on concrete, we find its best to use MST silver dots all around.
Droop screws gone ! I think I used them to hold my turnbuckle in the y arm.

I'm trying rear shocks with 50℅ stock oil. Rear is nice and soft but rebound rate is too high. I switch the stock springs with softer spring at the back. I will need to check for even softer springs. I think it works on a smooth track. But on a bumpy track it just looks funny. Will try it out on the track just to make sure.

I am trying front stock springs with longer rod ends. Currently sits at 68mm fully extended. Shock oils standard at 100℅ I changed the rod ends for a slightly longer one. That seems to solve the problem where it droops too much. I shaved down the diameter of the rod end so it would fit the shock stopper. Can't tell the difference in short drifts. Need to test again for longer drifts on the track.

Waiting for the front knuckles to arrive. Hopefully solves the turnbuckle hitting the knuckles.

I am currently running 4 ds racing 4f all around. honestly tires don't have enough grip with my current setup.7mm off set. Track width about 210mm . How the hell do you get 260mm track width ? I was watching some rwd setups. I run a Standard 5mm hex with 3mm spacers. 4mm extension from y arms. And that still touches the lower arm on full lock.

Lowered EPA ratios so I can mimic the programmed esc. Hell that's not easy with the finger. I concede. I am going to get a programmable esc. You cheats !!! I not saying you but in general where those have programmed escs. Stop cheating on the wheel spins.












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Team Magic - E4D(4) RWD - Sakura D4 RWD
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#10
I decided to get a new motor and ESC. team powers esc and motor combo.

I didn't realise my old esc was fried. That was the reason my gyro wasn't working as well.

Here is the first run of my car. Without me driving

https://youtu.be/Zk2inm08eL4

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Team Magic - E4D(4) RWD - Sakura D4 RWD
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