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My rwd settings guide
#1
I just wanted to share my settings and guide how I set it up.

Epoxy/cement surface

Camber angle.
I have always adjusted this based on 45 degree angle turn of trailing(edit) wheel. Camber adjusted to 0 degrees. This is adjusted with battery and body shell.

Rear camber:

I've gone for active camber. It is set to -1 degree. Camber will adjust according to body roll.

Kpi / caster
I run maximum kpi my knuckles allow. Caster is also at maximum allowable. Effects: higher kpi makes car slower but more controllable in corners. If car is too slow during a corner reduce kpi settings. Caster is the cars rolling ability.

Toe settings / ride height spring settings

My front ride height changes according to acceleration and deceleration. Nuetral to slight Toe in during acceleration and toe out during braking and low speeds.

Ride height is adjusted with body shell and battery. 5mm at lowest height in front and back. Springs are 31 mm springs. Due to my setup my springs are softer in front and harder in the rear. This is to accommodate the heavier rear.

Damper settings.
My damper location is the closest hole to the chassis in front. Rear damper location is also closest to chassis. However I do not use standard holes that come with the lower arms in the rear. My dampers sit almost upright.

Effects: I chose this because I wanted more shift from side to side. Chassis continues to be angled during a corner. I've got test this again in more detail. However I feel this help the car to come out faster of a corner. This setting may cause the car to have less reaction

Damper oil.
For many months I was using mixture of oils. I was running an average of 50cst to 100 cst.
This makes the car actually looser. Depending on the surface of the track whether it's bumpy or not will determine what oil to use.

On uneven epoxy, I use 300 -400 CST oil. I find that it helps to grip more. If you don't want so much grip or on a smoother surface you can reduce the thickness of the oil.

FDR
I run at 6.9 FDR.

Effects : I run at this due to the lower wheel spin. It takes a longer time to hit top speed, your acceleration is lower. Lower acceleration is more controllable wheel spin. Less wheel spin is a faster car.

Also the other reason I can run the car for 2 hours without battery change which is great.

Radio EPA/ dual rate
I run my EPA anywhere from 55℅ th to 85℅ depending of the factors of cars around me. Faster cars I use a lower EPA setting and slower cars a higher EPA setting.

Dual rate, I cap the max throttle at 90℅. The car cannot go more then 90℅. So my actual car speed is lower with EPA and dual rate combination.

Curve settings.
None. Mine is linear.

Will update more later. I will post pics later of what I mean.







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Team Magic - E4D(4) RWD - Sakura D4 RWD
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#2
Photo 1 - chassis fully up. Wheels are slight toe in or almost 0 toe.

Photo 2 - chassis fully depressed. Wheels at toe out.

Photo 3 - kpi adjustment. I recently set my kpi for carpet. So this is my carpet setting
. Very slight kpi.

Photo 4 - caster settings. I think this is at a few degrees.

Photo 5 - rear shock position

Photo 6 - fully depressed chassis front view. This will be the chassis height during braking

Photo 7 - chassis at full height or how it should be when accelerating.

The front of chassis only moves when there is a force applied. It will remain in the same position until another force is applied.

Oh I don't really measure stuff. I just make sure my basic settings are met. I just make sure the lengths are equal each side especially for the steering links and the upper arm links.

Hope this helps someone else setup their car and have as much fun as I did setting this.
[Image: 458f8844e10854bf5ce1711171a99afa.jpg][Image: 2b908d8c6382a191e39094cb8b886cb3.jpg][Image: 62af68a1566888b4fc0b5257638a90ca.jpg][Image: 89dfbc485b1b1b670d0842793611b25e.jpg][Image: 28c0e23ba72688c4644642eacba18ebb.jpg][Image: c7f0b58de1e3f904bf51d4adee444d5c.jpg][Image: e4d980b55202925d22f436a006b5866c.jpg]
Team Magic - E4D(4) RWD - Sakura D4 RWD
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#3
Funny thing is that a Camber tool and a turnbuckle key is a vital piece of equipment that can alter the car in so many ways.

The camber tool is also helpful so you can dial in what you want, write it down and try other settings - Took me a while to notice the changes, and now i can't do it without those to.

I piece of advise, if you have a little Toe-out, the car won't be so snappy changing direction and the car would steer better because of the ackermann in the front.
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MST FMX-D PRO - RWD - Main

MST RMX-S 2.0 - RWD - Secondary
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#4
Nice guide and sick chassis man. Thanks for sharing this

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#5
@woodsnail I don't think you should say that because of toe out the the reaction of the car lesser You have to remember that you have the entire suspension / steering settings to get reaction on the car.

Effects of toe out, normally just slows down your car in straight line. At some point of the turning angle you will need the car to toe out. Without any toe out, your car will spin.

Then again you may have a driving style that suits you. I have a friend with a rmx that runs his car toe in at nuetral and toe out during a turn. But never perfect Ackerman.

Our drag test results are very close. I am waiting for his rmx to get the rear motor mount for next drag test.

There is no incorrect settings. Just inefficient ones. All settings just need to be tuned to suit your style.

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Team Magic - E4D(4) RWD - Sakura D4 RWD
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#6
Nice write up. I have found that others setups don't work for me. That doesn't mean they are wrong just that the conditions are not the same, for instance track surface & driving style. I like trying different things and I think that is how you learn. I use setup sheets, that way if I get my chassis all dorked up I can go back to a good working setup.
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MST RMX 2.0S 
MST FXX-D
Exceed RC MadPulse awd

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#7
Yes setup sheets. Agreed the best way to do things

Too many settings to write down. I just draw Xs according to settings I use on piece of paper.

I find that once the car is setup on epoxy, very minor changes are made to other tracks. Car handling is usually the same in other tracks. Minor tuning like changing the FDR for the track length. Some of the frequent competition goers said that try not to change too many settings that affect the feel of the car. I see some truth in that.

The only important thing that I wanted to get through is that any setup to suspension , ride height , toe ... Should be done with body shell. If you switch body shells you need to reset your settings again. Too many people setup their cars without body shells.




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Team Magic - E4D(4) RWD - Sakura D4 RWD
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#8
Well that is what i've beein using on my cars since it makes it more fluid to drive..

But other factors comes in as well, as suspension fluid/springs have a big difference and the angle of the shocks for front and rear.

The way i like my ride is soft rear, medium front - 0.5 fixed toe out in front, 2.0 rear - rideheight is equal and set the turnbuckles for maximum roll in the back.

I like smooth driving and transitions that have a realistic feel, not that snappy flick that only rc cars can make..
MST XXX-D VIP - CS 2.0 - Main

MST FMX-D PRO - RWD - Main

MST RMX-S 2.0 - RWD - Secondary
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#9
(07-09-2017, 03:47 AM)Woodsnail Wrote:  The way i like my ride is soft rear, medium front - 0.5 fixed toe out in front, 2.0 rear - rideheight is equal and set the turnbuckles for maximum roll in the back.

I like smooth driving and transitions that have a realistic feel, not that snappy flick that only rc cars can make..

Your running toe out in the rear?
Gramps
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MST RMX 2.0S 
MST FXX-D
Exceed RC MadPulse awd

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#10
Positive toe is toe in. Neg toe is toe out.

I cannot run softer springs on the rear than front. It is dependent on the weight distribution of the car. As the weight distribution is more towards the back of the car, the springs need to be stiffer to accommodate the weight.

Each car chassis will defer in this and the weight distribution is different. So if you change the weight distribution of the car, you need to recheck your absorbers again. What you want to achieve during the setting ride height is that shock shaft can travel its maximum course up and down. And not sit on one end of the shock.





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