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NEW GUY HELP!!! Sakura D3 CS
Hey all,

I am the ONLY guy in my area trying this drifting that I know of. I always want the most challenging stuff. I have flown planes, Helicopters, drones and raced cars. But this drifting is kicking my but.. 

The ONLY track I have available is an indoor "foam" track, It is made up of those soft floor tile puzzles most people use in their garage. It is slick as concrete though.. 

My issue is simply getting around the track. I have played with the car to the best of my knowledge and what I have found online. But the thing still oversteers like CRAZY. I have dialed down the throttle to about 40% and EASY it on to get going straight. as soon as I turn the wheel or tap the gass I do a 180..  I am using a 6500 mah battery moved as far back as I can get it. I tried softer rear shocks and stiffer preload, I it made VERY little difference. I recently put the rubber type slicks on it from my sons Ken Block car. It seamed to help the most. I am sure this is a balance / setup issue. But I just don't know where to start. 

If there is ANYONE in the Phoenix area at all, PLEASE contact me for help. 

I am open to ANY AND ALL help at this point. 

I do have the maxed out, all aluminum and carbon car with Brushless motor that can be found all over Ebay and Amazon. It looks pretty, But drives like.... Well, you get the idea..  I have read where the electronics are not the best. But I should be able to get this thing to drive and drift to some degree I would think. 

Also, Not sure how to get the car to go in reverse very fast. It simply wont back up hardly at all. 

I did install the one way hub in the front too. I read it is a MUST on this car. ???? 

Thanks in advance for everything.. 

Viper =L
On my Sakura D4 Rwd the front wheels hit the lower y arms at full lock causing a spin. It could be a similar problem.
Sakura D4 RWD
I hear you, I have reduced my steering so they are even on both sides. I an confused on the term "full lock" though. If I let the travel go all the way to where the servo starts to bind. The lead wheel "pops" open more that the trailing wheel. I'd say about 10-20 degrees more. Is this "full lock" I thought both wheels should be set equally??

Thanks for all the help, I do appreciate it a lot.
I believe that is Ackerman but I'm not sure. Look at the acronyms thread.
Sakura D4 RWD
Try this, turn your chassis upside down. Slightly press throttle. Turn the wheels to one side full (full lock). Does the wheels slow down or stop? Try it on the other side next.

If it does. You have too much steering angle on full lock. Reduce your steering EPA.

With regards to the reverse issue. Have you tried resetting ESC and rebinding it ?

Wheels don't have to be aligned when turning. Ideally you would want them to be aligned all the way during a turn. I would start with more toe out first through out the turn.

Sent from my Lenovo P1a42 using Tapatalk
Team Magic - E4D(4) RWD - Sakura D4 RWD
Ok, I have reset my ESC. I had to calibrate the throttle, Now I have good reverse. I also checked the steering as you described. I have even on both sides and NO binding or reduction in wheel turn. I understand what full lock is now.

I have also picked up a gyro to see if this will help me out. I am very familiar with Gyros on my helicopters. so setup was not a big deal. However, how much "hunting" should there be? Hunting to us heli guys is described as "tail wag" In other words. When I drive the car strait right now and give a little steering input, it over reacts and the car goes side to side steered by the gyro. I know this is gain adjustment. My question is should there be NO "hunting" or is a little the norm when drifting as you don't really drive straight lines too often..

Also, what is a fair percentage of throttle? If I run 100% it feels like there is WAY too much power. I have dialed down to about 60% and driving slow. I know this is not too good for the ESC and motor though. Should I look at a different pinion to keep the ESC happy running closer to 100%. The motor does get pretty hot after driving. The ESC has a fan on it so it stays warm only. I have a fan on the way for my Motor too.

I hope this is clear enough??

I'll be going to my track today and try out my new settings. Hopefully all is better at least.

Gyro on cs ? That isn't right. Anyway it's a personal choice I guess.

Throttle is based on your current motor and track surface. Do search on cs drifting. Maybe it can answer your question on how much you want the tail out. Look for the Japanese drift vids. They get Cs cars to look like rwd. It's a good reference.

If your motor is hot, your gearing may not be correct. Recheck your FDR.

Sent from my Lenovo P1a42 using Tapatalk
Team Magic - E4D(4) RWD - Sakura D4 RWD
Well, Track day yesterday was un eventfull. The Gyro does help a bit, But I believe the track surface is my main issue. The foam rubber floor tiles are just not a good choice for drifting. I think they are simply too slick. I ran on the store concrete and the car did MUCH better. I could easily hold nice circles with the gyro. Even driving around the displays was MUCH easier. So I'm going to look for another track option or build my own I guess.
That foam floor you have, did you check the smoothness? A wheel can stuck between the part where 2 pieces connected causing spin out. Also foam is very grippy and not a surface for drifting in general. You need to change tyres according to the surface you are running on.

I don't think dialing down throttle will cause any problem to the ESC. After all it's like not fully pulling the throttle so the current running though isn't as high and you won't strain both motor and ESC.
There's also the balance between rpm and torque you need to spin the wheel. If you feel it doesn't have enough torque at low power you should drop the pinion and vise versa. All this you have to check if any change causing motor and ESC to heat up excessively.

I don't use gyro on my D3 but I use it on my micro drifter. Yes, it helps especially when the setup is not good. Personally I think it helps you to easily enjoy the drive but doesn't help you learn. Unlike RWD where you need to have it. Also CS car will eventually go crabbing since the rear is spin faster than the front, gyro is a quick and easy way to solve but nothing beats good setup.

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