Rude RWD TT01

wish i could get more caster...i think im stuck as is

i see you have some spacer in your upper front link, remove it from the rear pin and put in on front, from there you can gain another 2 or 3mm/3 degree.

wish i could get more caster...i think im stuck as is

i see you have some spacer in your upper front link, remove it from the rear pin and put in on front, from there you can gain another 2 or 3mm/3 degree.

Nice observation, that's sure to gain some caster. How's your progress going Kemchie?

wish i could get more caster...i think im stuck as is

i see you have some spacer in your upper front link, remove it from the rear pin and put in on front, from there you can gain another 2 or 3mm/3 degree.

Nice observation, that's sure to gain some caster. How's your progress going Kemchie?

as of now im practicing the throlling and handling of my kit while waiting for the MST HT Arm Set, it got delayed due to UAE Holidays here and hopes handling will change more when i put on the new Arm set ^_^....... will post some pics for update.

wish i could get more caster...i think im stuck as is

i see you have some spacer in your upper front link, remove it from the rear pin and put in on front, from there you can gain another 2 or 3mm/3 degree.

Kemchie i'm Not seeing what you are referring to. are you talking about the steering link extensions? the c-clip spacers on the front upper arm hinge pin are to provide clearance for the steering. if i remove clips and put them up front, that would reduce my steering lock because the wiper would hit the upper arm. looks like more filing:=L: is the only way.
please point out what you mean if there's something i'm missing. sometimes i have tunnel vision and can not see what may be obvious to others

ya, looks like what we were referring to does provide the clearance for your steering not to hit the upper arm. I guess that's as much caster as your gonna get without shaving things. I also remember your comment pertaining about the front toe issue varying when the suspension is compressed. After redoing my front setup and allowing room for shocks to move, I'm encountering that issue now. I have alot of toe out when its not touching the ground and when its on the ground it straightens.

if this is the C-clips you mentioned, its ok to move it. trust me it won't reduce your steering lock and you wont be worried if the steering wiper would hit the upper arm. and for the extension you put on your steering wiper, put some spacer (2mm/3mm) to lower it so it won't hit the upper arm.

no Kemchie. the front suspension part your pointing to is not a c-clip but the cip that holds the hinge pin into the mount slot. unfortunately i can not remove it for more clearance. but thanks for the suggestion. Im sure i'll think of something.

Lougc8, the wrap-up next arms won't fit the suspension pins for the tt01(i dont think). They should be the same 2.5mm diameter as the mst suspension slot pins. Tamiya uses 3mm. I had to drill the plastic HT mst lower arms to get them to fit my chassis. since the wrap-up arms are aluminum, i dont think it would be very effective for me seeing as i drilled them by hand without a vice or drill press.

with a drill press and a strong bit, the wrap-up arms may work.... but then again...
I Remember I had to shave quite a bit from the sides of the HT to get the arm to squeeze between the diff housing case on my chassis. if the wrap-up arms are too long, that means you'd have to file down the aluminum too

@ RudeBoy, now i see the difference, I am using the plastic TT01 Rear Adjustable arm, i believe you were using the TT01E:



I also ordered 1 of this to replace the plastic 1



maybe you or some of your friends keeping the same arm....

Looks great and now I am part of the TT01 family.. Hehe

@ RudeBoy, now i see the difference, I am using the plastic TT01 Rear Adjustable arm, i believe you were using the TT01E:



I also ordered 1 of this to replace the plastic 1



maybe you or some of your friends keeping the same arm....

You could actually use both side for the front and back using spacers on the other part and connect it to the rear like active hobby using ball links. That's what I am doing hehe. My rwd tub chassis is not gonna stay a tub chassis anymore. Didn't like the sagging when using droop screws and got a great deal on a 3racing conversion.

Rudeboy, thanks for the heads up on the WUN arms. I thought you only shaved off one side of the HT arms. I measured the TT01 width and its like 26mm and the WUN for DIB is 30mm so yeah definitely a no.