- Yokomo DIB275 Premium (RWD Conversion)
- Yokomo DPR (Hayato Yoshiba Spec)
- Yokomo YD-4
- Yokomo YD-2 PLUS
04-25-2016, 08:40 PM
Here's another guide that provides some more depth in some areas of terminology, but less in others: http://www.rctek.com/technical/handling/index.php
04-26-2016, 08:08 AM
I'm curious about weight distribution. Started working on a Sprint 2 RWD and am trying to figure out how to balanxe it so it gets traction, but am not sure if it needs more rear weight or if everything should move forward.
04-26-2016, 06:36 PM
(04-26-2016, 08:08 AM)Steve Fox Wrote: I'm curious about weight distribution. Started working on a Sprint 2 RWD and am trying to figure out how to balanxe it so it gets traction, but am not sure if it needs more rear weight or if everything should move forward.
Add weight to the rear for increased traction.
Add weight to the front for increased steering.
Founder of SOCAL-RC.com.
Getting rear traction. For me it's mainly acquired by a nice soft rear setup 10w and spring of choice but the main source of traction comes from a combo of final drive gearing, esc settings, and the curve of the throttle in the radio settings. My goal at first was to copy the Japan guys running 10:1 or 12:1 gearing. My system did not provide enough wheel speed at top end, because I have no turbo or timing advance settings in my esc. So this leaves me to gear my 8.5tmotor to 7:1 to get that 5k 5.5k rear wheel rpm on top end. However this setting blows the traction away on low end. I compensate by adding a lot of curve in the radio. This slows the accel of the motor at low end allowing me to maintain the grip required to get to speed. I hope this info helps it's just what I am doing, but maybe the method of tuning different things is what you can take away from this.
Sent from my ZTE AXON 7 via Tapatalk
Promoting radio controlled drifting to the masses since 2009
03-09-2017, 09:44 PM
I have found excelent guides on this site.
I think everything needed to know is there.
Come see my RC paint Jobs at
03-20-2017, 06:32 AM
As a new comer into this hobby
I will try to list out the things that I think would be important.
In order. The topic is directed to new comers so this should be basics of it.
1. Steering angle. I think even today most rwd kits have a limited steering angle. Which can be corrected with a kpi knuckle. Then geometry of the wheels.
2. Gyro. This backbone for rwd.
3. Tires. Yes there are tire limitation in some countries. I think most people read forums before they actually go to the track. Well it is for me. I picked up wrong set of tires and learnt differently. Then went to track complaining my car has something wrong. Guidelines for smooth surfaces : cement / tiles / epoxy/ carpet. You can use the same tires. Advise: follow local track guidelines
4. Basic rwd setup. I know this is different for each chassis. But there are basic setups to follow. I just follow basic setup till now and have not made much adjustments. Basic front camber and toe adjustments.
5. Speed vs drifting. Basically lowering revs makes the car faster. Too low revs and the car stops drifting.There is no guideline for this. It's a mix of preference. This can be controlled from EPA settings at controller and curve settings for throttle. Personally I like to have enough punch on the throttle to throw an oversteer while understeering.
6. Understeer / oversteer . This is a large topic covered in many forums. I don't think this can be covered here and should be covered in advanced settings. Where you have so many other affecting it.
As a beginner and the only thing that I adjust is EPA settings.
---- more advanced (not in order)
7. Suspension tuning and weights. I think this is important too but honestly do not know how to comment on this. This should in advanced tuning too. I don't know how to do this correctly so I just copy other settings by eye and feel.
I think there are too many properties to this at the same time. Rebound rate. Dampening rate. Weight of chassis calculation. Too complicated for me. Personally I use soft settings. Longer shocks. I just need to get longer springs now. Some how longer springs seems better too. Again this different for each chassis.
8. Electronics. Servo, ESC, controller. This are more advanced I guess. The more accurate the more expensive. But if you are new to this hobby you wouldn't spend that much until you know the limitations lower electronics. This is all later stages.
10 FDR. Again no right and wrong answer. There are general guidelines. But you don't have to follow it.
Just my 2 cents
Sent from my Lenovo P1a42 using Tapatalk
Team Magic - E4D(4) RWD - Sakura D4 RWD