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RWD Testing


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RWD Testing
#21
Damn, that's Shiz is fast for rwd!! I agree with cheifys acusation..it a cs lol;)
>SCREW IT, DONT NEED NO FANCY SIG<
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#22
Here is a vid made the same night. Just with a better camera.

Filmed by: Travis Spriggs
Chassis: Tamiya TA-04
Tires: Raikou Drift DP50sb front, and D70 rear
Gyro: KDS-800
Driver: Justsidewayz


Promoting radio controlled drifting to the masses since 2009
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#23
nicely done!! wow.. i love the slow mo switch back you did.. awesome!!!
The underdog drifter....
[Image: 117.gif]
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#24
Ok here is a new vid 3 laps in my X Ray T2 2wd. Hpi Type A tires out back and Raikou DP50sb up front! Chassis is powered by Novak gtb and 8.5t. Gyro enabled. D-like msf rear springs 200 oil 4 hole dampening. Front springs stock vdf with 35w oil but 1 hole dampening. Enjoy!!!


Promoting radio controlled drifting to the masses since 2009
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#25
I find HPI Type A tires to be faster than cs on the polished than a cs car but its great fun. I figured everyone would like to see a fast rwd. The Type A's are really really fast until they pick up a high polished glaze from the concrete then the grip lessens.

Promoting radio controlled drifting to the masses since 2009
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#26
RWDs are quick given a type A or type D tires when compared to CS drifters running on hard compound tires on polished cement but loses out, still, on acceleration vs really good CS drifters as per my experience here. So it will depend on track layout.

I run HPI Type D's on our track here. It's good enough to outrun some CS drifters on most sections.

BTW, what's your EPA, D/R setting on your 8.5T? Do you get to use all 100% of the throttle?


On my 10.5T, I could run 100% epa on it but only if the layout is flowy. If there are any sharp corners I'd have to dial down epa at about 75% to get more control over the low end.

Also what gyro settings do you have now?
http://rwdrcdrift.blogspot.com/

My Eagle Racing R31 modification and personal notes of it.
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#27
(07-15-2013, 02:36 PM)dencio1976 Wrote:  BTW, what's your EPA, D/R setting on your 8.5T? Do you get to use all 100% of the throttle?


On my 10.5T, I could run 100% epa on it but only if the layout is flowy. If there are any sharp corners I'd have to dial down epa at about 75% to get more control over the low end.

Also what gyro settings do you have now?
The epa on my garage floor I have turned down to about 70/100 on the forward epa, but on asphalt with t-drifts I can run full epa but it is a little tricky on the low end. I am not running any exp/arc As far as how much throttle I can use is a tricky question. I can run low throttle. Just keeping the tires spinning just above grip around the track. This leads to smooth conservative drifts. If I start using more throttle it makes the car drift @ higher angles slowing the car down on the track. I can use the throttle to increase my angle on the track. This usualy leads to a mistake. Not a spin but a little choppy getting back down in speed for the next corner. I find it easier to use max throttle in a manji or flowing switch. Also the car just has to be ready for the power! If you apply power @ the wrong time you are gonna spin, but if the car is in the right position it can take all the power/throttle.

I am sure these are the same things you have experienced. I was more using our conversation to explain to others.;)

The gyro settings I still move it around a little. I found with my digital servo and the gyro I can run the gain high without a lot of steering wobble. About -70, but This makes the car feel like it wants to stay in the drift and not switch. I find running the gain lower (-50 to -40) feels good. It requires more steering input from me, but feels better. It is like I am more connected to the car.

As always nice chatting Dencio!

Promoting radio controlled drifting to the masses since 2009
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#28
(07-15-2013, 04:30 PM)JustSiDEwayZ Wrote:  
(07-15-2013, 02:36 PM)dencio1976 Wrote:  BTW, what's your EPA, D/R setting on your 8.5T? Do you get to use all 100% of the throttle?


On my 10.5T, I could run 100% epa on it but only if the layout is flowy. If there are any sharp corners I'd have to dial down epa at about 75% to get more control over the low end.

Also what gyro settings do you have now?
The epa on my garage floor I have turned down to about 70/100 on the forward epa, but on asphalt with t-drifts I can run full epa but it is a little tricky on the low end. I am not running any exp/arc As far as how much throttle I can use is a tricky question. I can run low throttle. Just keeping the tires spinning just above grip around the track. This leads to smooth conservative drifts. If I start using more throttle it makes the car drift @ higher angles slowing the car down on the track. I can use the throttle to increase my angle on the track. This usualy leads to a mistake. Not a spin but a little choppy getting back down in speed for the next corner. I find it easier to use max throttle in a manji or flowing switch. Also the car just has to be ready for the power! If you apply power @ the wrong time you are gonna spin, but if the car is in the right position it can take all the power/throttle.

I am sure these are the same things you have experienced. I was more using our conversation to explain to others.;)

The gyro settings I still move it around a little. I found with my digital servo and the gyro I can run the gain high without a lot of steering wobble. About -70, but This makes the car feel like it wants to stay in the drift and not switch. I find running the gain lower (-50 to -40) feels good. It requires more steering input from me, but feels better. It is like I am more connected to the car.

As always nice chatting Dencio!

Yeah same observation here. I love manjis since this is when I can actually go crazy with the throttle. hehe! But then I find that I can build speed faster after going full throttle and then letting it off. Also, I've never had problems with switching back. But that's because by steering lock is sufficient enough. Huge caster too.

I actually run my gyro at 45. Running it at higher gains though does make an awkward balance for me. Meaning I'd have to do more throttle to get the car into drift but have more tendencies spinning out when I throttle to much to get the kit into drift on sharp slow corners when I get slowed down by a leading car. Trying to break traction by throttling more did make it a little harder to drive.

This was my observation on my first track session. Which is why I dialed down to 45. We do have more input with steering but I find it more balanced to drive.

But then that's just the first day. I checked my setup and found a few errors. Since 2nd track session, my kit could take more angle but I didn't bother playing with gyro settings anymore. I plan on playing with it again tom though.


I wonder how different the gyros are at the same numerical setting. I gather steering geometry and suspension setup help ease with the gyro's control over stabilizing angle but still wonder if we have it where it's suppose to be.


The jap guys have it atleast 60. =L
http://rwdrcdrift.blogspot.com/

My Eagle Racing R31 modification and personal notes of it.
Reply
#29
(07-15-2013, 10:27 PM)dencio1976 Wrote:  
(07-15-2013, 04:30 PM)JustSiDEwayZ Wrote:  
(07-15-2013, 02:36 PM)dencio1976 Wrote:  BTW, what's your EPA, D/R setting on your 8.5T? Do you get to use all 100% of the throttle?


On my 10.5T, I could run 100% epa on it but only if the layout is flowy. If there are any sharp corners I'd have to dial down epa at about 75% to get more control over the low end.

Also what gyro settings do you have now?
The epa on my garage floor I have turned down to about 70/100 on the forward epa, but on asphalt with t-drifts I can run full epa but it is a little tricky on the low end. I am not running any exp/arc As far as how much throttle I can use is a tricky question. I can run low throttle. Just keeping the tires spinning just above grip around the track. This leads to smooth conservative drifts. If I start using more throttle it makes the car drift @ higher angles slowing the car down on the track. I can use the throttle to increase my angle on the track. This usualy leads to a mistake. Not a spin but a little choppy getting back down in speed for the next corner. I find it easier to use max throttle in a manji or flowing switch. Also the car just has to be ready for the power! If you apply power @ the wrong time you are gonna spin, but if the car is in the right position it can take all the power/throttle.

I am sure these are the same things you have experienced. I was more using our conversation to explain to others.;)

The gyro settings I still move it around a little. I found with my digital servo and the gyro I can run the gain high without a lot of steering wobble. About -70, but This makes the car feel like it wants to stay in the drift and not switch. I find running the gain lower (-50 to -40) feels good. It requires more steering input from me, but feels better. It is like I am more connected to the car.

As always nice chatting Dencio!

Yeah same observation here. I love manjis since this is when I can actually go crazy with the throttle. hehe! But then I find that I can build speed faster after going full throttle and then letting it off. Also, I've never had problems with switching back. But that's because by steering lock is sufficient enough. Huge caster too.

I actually run my gyro at 45. Running it at higher gains though does make an awkward balance for me. Meaning I'd have to do more throttle to get the car into drift but have more tendencies spinning out when I throttle to much to get the kit into drift on sharp slow corners when I get slowed down by a leading car. Trying to break traction by throttling more did make it a little harder to drive.

This was my observation on my first track session. Which is why I dialed down to 45. We do have more input with steering but I find it more balanced to drive.

But then that's just the first day. I checked my setup and found a few errors. Since 2nd track session, my kit could take more angle but I didn't bother playing with gyro settings anymore. I plan on playing with it again tom though.


I wonder how different the gyros are at the same numerical setting. I gather steering geometry and suspension setup help ease with the gyro's control over stabilizing angle but still wonder if we have it where it's suppose to be.


The jap guys have it atleast 60. =L

Just a quick reply I found on the Heli forums They are running similar gains. The try to run the gyro gain just below where the the tail wags. Just like our steering wheel wobble.

Promoting radio controlled drifting to the masses since 2009
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#30
Oh yeah, have you tried a slow rebound mod on your rear damper yet?

I have not tried that yet. I am curious as to how much more stability it can get me. Last time I tried that was in 2010. Too slow reaction for me. Quite inconsistent if the dampening is too slow especially if you're running on a very slippery track. But that's not the case now since Im running more grippier tires.

Might also give that a try when I have nothing else in mind to try.
http://rwdrcdrift.blogspot.com/

My Eagle Racing R31 modification and personal notes of it.
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