When assembling the kit if you have access to a 3mm tap run that in the holes first with some light oil creds to eunique for that piece of advice! otherwise use some light oil on the screws and slowly screw them in so they don't heat up the plastic. When you get your kit take apart the CVD's, grind flats on the pins, grease the joint and reassemble with thread lock on the set screw! I wish I'd known about that one when I first assembled mine! Once you get to the point of assembling the rear pulley mount add some washers under it, I use 1mm at the front and 0.5mm at the rear screws this tilts the pulley mount backwards tensioning the centre belt slightly or you can lift the top deck using 1mm washers at the front bulkhead and the rear bulkhead to give some extra room for the battery creds to Dorvack for that advice, if you do this I don't think you'd need to tilt the pulley mount back. just make sure that the pulley mount is straight as it has a tendency to twist as the screws are tightened which makes the belt climb the pulley walls and makes heaps of noise.
Also get yourself a FOW you can use the SAK-59/V2/PK from the zero leaving out the spacer if you can't get a SAK-D324. You may want to get some SSK's SAK-X27 CVD's for the front they eliminate the chatter at full lock
(This post was last modified: 12-29-2012, 11:04 AM by pickled.)
Awesome. Thank you guys!! im sure the spacers i would figure out but once i was done assembling the chassis. Lol. And i will for sure look into the d3 threads here on driftmission. You guys have a good New Year!!!
No but if your using the alloy parts i.e. bulkheads use thread lock, so if your going to use the alloy rear pulley mount then there's no need to use washers under it as the fully hopped up chassis is slightly longer in the centre and tensions the belt properly! but if you want to give the battery some room you can still add the washers under the top deck!
(This post was last modified: 12-29-2012, 11:50 PM by pickled.)