Sakura D3 Counter Steer New Mission

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Hey guys. Im going to pick up a D3 CS tomorrow at a local hobby shop that I ordered a month or two ago. Im on a new mission. lol. Cant wait to get to start building it from the ground up and ofcourse once done....cant wait to get to try the counter steer setup it has to offer. I was hoping to possibly get a tip or two from some fellow drifters about seting it up as per camber, electronics suggestions, etc. any help would be greatly appreciated. I know that the spur gear holder has to be replaced straight out of the box. I am getting it. I also know to make some changes as per gearing...any help would ROCK!! LOL

Thanks Shy
When assembling the kit if you have access to a 3mm tap run that in the holes first with some light oil creds to eunique for that piece of advice! otherwise use some light oil on the screws and slowly screw them in so they don't heat up the plastic. When you get your kit take apart the CVD's, grind flats on the pins, grease the joint and reassemble with thread lock on the set screw! I wish I'd known about that one when I first assembled mine! Once you get to the point of assembling the rear pulley mount add some washers under it, I use 1mm at the front and 0.5mm at the rear screws this tilts the pulley mount backwards tensioning the centre belt slightly or you can lift the top deck using 1mm washers at the front bulkhead and the rear bulkhead to give some extra room for the battery creds to Dorvack for that advice, if you do this I don't think you'd need to tilt the pulley mount back. just make sure that the pulley mount is straight as it has a  tendency  to twist as the screws are tightened which makes the belt climb the pulley walls and makes heaps of noise.

Also get yourself a FOW you can use the SAK-59/V2/PK from the zero leaving out the spacer if you can't get a SAK-D324. You may want to get some SSK's SAK-X27 CVD's for the front they eliminate the chatter at full lock
(This post was last modified: 12-29-2012, 11:04 AM by pickled.)
Awesome. Thank you guys!! im sure the spacers i would figure out but once i was done assembling the chassis. Lol. And i will for sure look into the d3 threads here on driftmission. You guys have a good New Year!!!
(12-29-2012, 10:55 AM)pickled Wrote: When assembling the kit if you have access to a 3mm tap run that in the holes first with some light oil creds to eunique for that piece of advice! otherwise use some light oil on the screws and slowly screw them in so they don't heat up the plastic. When you get your kit take apart the CVD's, grind flats on the pins, grease the joint and reassemble with thread lock on the set screw! I wish I'd known about that one when I first assembled mine! Once you get to the point of assembling the rear pulley mount add some washers under it, I use 1mm at the front and 0.5mm at the rear screws this tilts the pulley mount backwards tensioning the centre belt slightly or you can lift the top deck using 1mm washers at the front bulkhead and the rear bulkhead to give some extra room for the battery creds to Dorvack for that advice, if you do this I don't think you'd need to tilt the pulley mount back. just make sure that the pulley mount is straight as it has a  tendency  to twist as the screws are tightened which makes the belt climb the pulley walls and makes heaps of noise.

Also get yourself a FOW you can use the SAK-59/V2/PK from the zero leaving out the spacer if you can't get a SAK-D324. You may want to get some SSK's SAK-X27 CVD's for the front they eliminate the chatter at full lock

Would you still recomend the oiling if im going to use the graphite chassis?
No but if your using the alloy parts i.e. bulkheads use thread lock, so if your going to use the alloy rear pulley mount then there's no need to use washers under it as the fully hopped up chassis is slightly longer in the centre and tensions the belt properly! but if you want to give the battery some room you can still add the washers under the top deck!
(This post was last modified: 12-29-2012, 11:50 PM by pickled.)
(12-29-2012, 11:46 PM)pickled Wrote: No but if your using the alloy parts i.e. bulkheads use thread lock, so if your going to use the alloy rear pulley mount then there's no need to use washers under it as the fully hopped up chassis is slightly longer in the centre and tensions the belt properly! but if you want to give the battery some room you can still add the washers under the top deck!

Thats great info and yes i do use hardcase lipos so they are a bit thicker.
Thank you so much!
Have a great and happy new year!

(12-29-2012, 12:59 PM)Dorvack Wrote: It's probably best to read around the forum and ask questions in the many D3 threads that we have here, as everyone has a slightly different take on this chassis. For example, if you want to run box-stock CS ratios, stay away from my threads as my D3 is tuned for RWD and very few of my mods will help with a 4WD setup, even down to the choice of screws I went with.

Good luck with your build.

Dorvack.

Thanks man. I sure am going to read up more before I even unbox everything. Lol

Have a good new year!
(This post was last modified: 12-31-2012, 07:06 AM by P.D.B..)
(12-29-2012, 10:55 AM)pickled Wrote: When assembling the kit if you have access to a 3mm tap run that in the holes first with some light oil creds to eunique for that piece of advice! otherwise use some light oil on the screws and slowly screw them in so they don't heat up the plastic. When you get your kit take apart the CVD's, grind flats on the pins, grease the joint and reassemble with thread lock on the set screw! I wish I'd known about that one when I first assembled mine! Once you get to the point of assembling the rear pulley mount add some washers under it, I use 1mm at the front and 0.5mm at the rear screws this tilts the pulley mount backwards tensioning the centre belt slightly or you can lift the top deck using 1mm washers at the front bulkhead and the rear bulkhead to give some extra room for the battery creds to Dorvack for that advice, if you do this I don't think you'd need to tilt the pulley mount back. just make sure that the pulley mount is straight as it has a  tendency  to twist as the screws are tightened which makes the belt climb the pulley walls and makes heaps of noise.

Also get yourself a FOW you can use the SAK-59/V2/PK from the zero leaving out the spacer if you can't get a SAK-D324. You may want to get some SSK's SAK-X27 CVD's for the front they eliminate the chatter at full lock

Hey does the grinding of the pins in the cvds get rid of the chatter? cheers
(12-31-2012, 09:16 AM)DriftStright Wrote: Hey does the grinding of the pins in the cvds get rid of the chatter? cheers

no the chatter is caused by the joint interfering with the steering angle every time it turns at full lock it bumps the inside of the joint! get some SSK's or double cardins they solve the problem. but still grind a flat on the stock CVD's as you use them in the rear anyway, they aren't put together properly from the factory.
(This post was last modified: 12-31-2012, 12:32 PM by pickled.)
Ok even though i havnt recieved the woven graphite parts I decided to go ahead with the build because the front belt shredded on my TM e4fs. Thanks to your guys info for the helpful hints and tips and great hanks to td-civ for lending me one of his d3's for set up reference while I built mine.

The build was great. The only thing I found took most time was getting the right tension on the belts. Its just a matter of right size washers or spacers in the right place.

I got her out to the local track (Loose Nutz) (carpet) on sunday.
Man!!!! This is my first cs chassis and im loving it!!! Its like loosing your virginity again. LOL

Like most people say....once set up right.. Its a great ride for the coin.

Thanks guys. Big Grin



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