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Scratch build McPherson/live axle chassis.
#1
Hello everyone! This is my first scratch built drifter. I have had drift cars off and on over the years, first one being a XXX-S G+ with PVC tires, hahaha. My last car I just sold a couple months back was a D3 setup for CS running a "bagged" JZX100.



Now I'm onto the next build! I wanted to do a "scale" chassis. Visually it probably won't be too crazy scale, I just wanted to do a scale suspension setup as it is something I have always wanted to do. Sorry if this project moves along slowly. I don't have much time
To work on it, but I will update when I can.

The front knuckles are just printed for now, but I will probably end up making some out of aluminum after I get everything finalized. The shocks are old team Losi ".36" shocks.

[Image: d360f3e177af56d4ccab9d15c21f02db.jpg]

[Image: d8b8f0a102ecc3f154391d9bad3c584b.jpg]


For the rear axle I am using a narrowed axial axle. I may get an SSD axle case for it though. I am hoping to so a separate spring and shock on the back, but may have to do coilover if I use the SSD case.

[Image: 5c7cc29fdaf9f0fe5cff9fb2e2b6959f.jpg]

Chassis layout is still up in the air, but I am pretty sure I know how I want to do it.

[Image: 9800ed3f756f3e59e5d7694c3ef5e6c0.jpg]

Now, I have some questions for you guys. I have never done anything with RWD drifting(except my 1:1 car, haha)

-- I see people using like 80deg of angle, is that really required? Or can I get away with like 50 or 60?

-- what about weight balance front to rear? I was going to make it slightly forward bias weight for stability. I'm just going off of 1:1 cars and I'm sure it will be a little different with 1/10 but I am unsure.

Thanks guys!
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#2
I dont have any advise for ya, but I'll be watching this build closely. Very cool!

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#3
That is sick!
MST XXX-D VIP w\ Novak Drift Spec Combo
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#4
I don't know that 80° of steering angle is required, but the more you can get for RWD the better. I doubt 50° will cut it as I have my 50/50 chassis at almost 50° and I can't see that working for CS really let alone RWD. My guess would be a 60° absolute minimum.

As far as weight bias goes, it really depends on what you're comfortable with. I think most RWD guys try to go heavier on the rear than front to help with traction though. But if your goal is to build as close to scale chassis as you can, I couldn't see you putting the motor in the back half of the chassis unless your going for like a Porsche deal. lol
HPI Sprint 2 Flux - full carbon fiber/aluminum upgrades 50/50
HPI Sprint 2 Flux - RWD project
HPI RS4 Sport 3  - carbon fiber/aluminum shelf queen
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#5
Ha! Yeah, the motor will be in the middle using an axial trans. Having more weight at the back for traction makes sense. I was just thinking that more weight in the back would make it harder to control, like an old Porsche.

Squeezing more angle may prove to be difficult, damn strut and wheel start to get in the way past 55*, I'm sure I will figure something out.
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#6
A very nice start, I like the challenge you've set up. Building ground up is a lot like what the crawler/trail guys do... check out http://scalebuildersguild.com/forum/forum.php for some ideas or inspiration if you ever need it.

As for your questions, 80 degrees isn't necessary but 55 is gonna be tough to hold a reasonable angle and you'll end up looping out a lot when you try to tandem. I converted a CS D3 to RWD and the stock angle of about 55 wasn't nearly enough. I think I achieved about 70 and that was adequate. I can't say what's the perfect amount but really the more you can get the better.

A general RWD front to rear weight bias to start with of 45/55 to 40/60 would be my recommendation. Around 1500g at the rear wheels is a good target too (and follows the guidelines of Japanese drifting regulation, FWIW), although with that aluminum chassis all of these numbers could go out the window.

Good luck! Looking forward to seeing the progress.
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#7
Thanks man!

It's funny you mention crawling, most of the stuff I have scratch built has been for crawling stuff. This was my last build:
[Image: c2936d4d3906413961d576e4becef8ea.jpg]

[Image: 1eb33535d4278b64e0cd69c3043fded0.jpg]

I will start looking into ways of getting more angle. I don't really want to space the front wheels out much further, I'm trying to keep a small-ish scrub radius.

This thing will be quite heavy being that the chassis is made out of steel. Hopefully that isn't detrimental to performance. If it is, I may have to go to a more traditional style touring chassis with rear frame rails.
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#8
Steel? Yeah, that may be an issue. With all that weight you're going to have more traction than you want. It'll hurt all drifting characteristics and really increase you're speed. The ultimate goal (for most people) of drifting is to tandem and run in packs. To achieve that set ups have to be similar on a few fronts, tire choice and weight being the biggest factors. Where you end up with a steal chassis may be too far from other peoples. I'm assuming here but I'm experienced enough to at least feel comfortable sharing the opinion.

That being said, it's all for fun so why not take a swing. Or choose another material. The stresses and abuse drifters take isn't like a crawler so the strength of steel doesn't seem necessary. Aluminum... carbon... plastics...
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#9
Steel is just what I had access to and I can braze components to it. I have nobody else around here to drive with, so it more of a "I want to build something fun" deal.

I'll probably continue with the steel and see where it ends up and keep a carbon pan chassis in my back pocket just in case.
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#10
You could always try making your own strut mount and move the mounting location closer to the chassis or angle it in a little to achieve more steering angle. Move the shock even a couple mm and you should get a decent amount more angle.
HPI Sprint 2 Flux - full carbon fiber/aluminum upgrades 50/50
HPI Sprint 2 Flux - RWD project
HPI RS4 Sport 3  - carbon fiber/aluminum shelf queen
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