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Sprint Flux 2
#1
I'm trying to set this thing up for drift and the manual is helpless. I have the stock shocks and everything... What position would I put the shocks in to get the rear end to kick more? I thought if I made the front shocks more angle and make the rears stand more upright it would make the rear more stiff and front more nimble which would cause it to kick more. Help! I'm running about 2 ° camber in the front tires. 0 ° with a bit of tow in on the rear tires.

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#2
Locking the rear diff will help a lot for kicking the rear out. I used the 'body clip method' on mine. Here's a link to the youtube clip i followed: http://youtu.be/J75I_maZkrk

Also, switching out the front diff with a 'front one way diff' will also help. Gives you an e-brake like effect when letting go of the gas/braking.
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#3
the father IN you attach your dampers to the upright holes the more body roll you get. if you have a second hole on the suspension arm ... I.E. where you attach the bottom of the damper to the (suspension) arm, pulling it in will also affect roll.. the more upright the shock .. the less body roll you have.
You also should take the upper camber links into consideration as they directly affect the Arc or I guess you could say direction the wheels travel while the car rolls and drifts around the track. try to achieve a parallel wishbone with an offset arc this is a standard camberd suspension setup.
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#4
(04-05-2014, 09:46 AM)RuffestChoon Wrote:  the father IN you attach your dampers to the upright holes the more body roll you get. if you have a second hole on the suspension arm ... I.E. where you attach the bottom of the damper to the (suspension) arm, pulling it in will also affect roll.. the more upright the shock .. the less body roll you have.
You also should take the upper camber links into consideration as they directly affect the Arc or I guess you could say direction the wheels travel while the car rolls and drifts around the track. try to achieve a parallel wishbone with an offset arc this is a standard camberd suspension setup.

I have the sprint 2... I'm working on achieving what i hear everyone talking about or like your post.. I feel like i have read post for days and days but still don't know how to set this up.. little help would be amazing
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#5
Suspension setup:

Rear
Upper shock mount moved all the way in on the shock tower
Lower mount moved all the way out
30 weight shock oil or less
Soft springs
Locked diff

Front
Shocks stood completely straight up and down
50 weight shock oil
Hard springs
Front one way diff


This is what everyone at my local club sets up for the Sprint 2.
When In doubt, Throttle Out!!!
OTA-R31 w/ Flux Capacitor
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#6
(06-25-2014, 08:41 PM)Super0dp Wrote:  Suspension setup:

Rear
Upper shock mount moved all the way in on the shock tower
Lower mount moved all the way out
30 weight shock oil or less
Soft springs
Locked diff

Front
Shocks stood completely straight up and down
50 weight shock oil
Hard springs
Front one way diff


This is what everyone at my local club sets up for the Sprint 2.

YES!!!!
Thank You!! I've been looking for your simple answer everywhere, It's all treading around the question but with no answer.. Thank You..

I see alot of different places to pick up parts and the cheep places are always in hong kong.. any suggestions?

I know i need new ball cups, locked rear diff, 1way front diff and more steering angle.. I shaved down the bump stop on the front c blocks, Is that ok?? any better ways or ideas.. maby a new set of c blocks?? I all ears and would love some help!!
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#7
no offense towards Super0dp, but there is no "this way" to set up a car, that's why you never really get a solid straight forward answer. it really does depend on too many variables such are driving style, track layout and surface and even things like tires and offsets could change things, amongst others. you can eat good startin points and adjust to your liking off that, but I wouldn't take one persons exact setup and go "well, that's as good as its going to ever get" and leave it alone.

to get more steering angle, do the Sakura D3 wide angle steering mod and upgrade from the stock servo to something faster.
HPI Sprint 2 Flux - full carbon fiber/aluminum upgrades 50/50
HPI Sprint 2 Flux - RWD project
HPI RS4 Sport 3  - carbon fiber/aluminum shelf queen
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#8
None taken Wareagle84.

My setup is a basic staring point. It's not a perfect setup but it will get you started.

Shave the knuckles as much as you can to squeeze every last bit of angle you can. You should also get Front CVD's because the stock Dog Bones like to pop out when you up the steering angle.

For ball cups don't get RPM. In my experience they flex too much and like to pop for no reason. Just get the stock ball ends.

To be honest they way you tune a drift car is by feel. Buy a whole bunch of springs and shock oil weights and just mess around until you find a setup that works for you.

Mess around with EVERYTHING. Oh the shocks have mounting options top and bottom? Try every spot. The A-arms have spacers you can move around? Move the spacers everywhere to see how it feels. Find some setup that fits YOU

In the 1:1 tuner community people talk about finding a car that fits your style. A lot of kids start out attending events and catching rides in people's cars. When I went I was hanging with the 350Z dudes but then I saw this RX-7 FD pull this crazy reverse entry and just whip the rear end around everywhere. I knew the moment I heard that turbo scream he was sweet. I tagged along with him and it was a balls-deep adrenaline fueled high all the way through.

A couple weeks later he sold his FD for a FC and I tagged along again. Same setup, single turbo, welded diff and a screaming exhaust. The event was a closed off section of road and most guys were running 180SX and Trueno's but my dude was the only one with a Mazda. So we are pared with a Trueno for a tandem and my dude in the RX-7 FC was so smooth and he was able to just fool around and play. I remember he slowed down and let the Trueno pass him but he came out a little straighter than normal and blasted past him, taking a real aggressive entry and going hard through the turn, clouds of smoke engulfing the street.

And that's how I knew that the Mazda RX-7 FC3S was my car. It spoke to me. They real sleepy front headlights, high power and the ability to play and fling it around like nothing else.
When In doubt, Throttle Out!!!
OTA-R31 w/ Flux Capacitor
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#9
Os-support 
YES!! Thats what i'm talking about!!!
___This is my current setup___
Hpi Sprint 2
Wheels: Hpi Work XSa 02c
Front; 3mm offset
Rear; 6mm offset
Tires: Hpi T-Drifts (Currently in a FedEx truck in Utah)
Currently intsalled Tires: 2in sec40 PVC (yes the white kind its all i had) They are WWAAYYY to slick it's like im driving on ice w/ plastic tires
Steering Mods: 1. I shaved down the front "C" blocks
2. I put an extra O-ring in the diff on both sides where the dogbones
c connect
Power Plant: Traxxas Titan 12t 550 Brushed motor
Traxxas XL-5 Esc
Traxxas TQ Received and Radio

Rear Diff: In the process of locking it in between this post and my pizza!!

"The Sakura D3 Steering MOD"... What is it? How do i doit? what do i need?

Are there any parts that i can get from lets say "3racing" "Sakura" "MST" ect.. that i can install on my sprint??? I'm really good an modding, building or fixing almost anything.. I flew R/C Helis 3D for a long time and last month i saw some kids at a LHS i go to drifting their cars and i was amazed so i picked up this sprint from a friend for $50.00!!!

SO PLEASE COMMENTS AND SUGGESTIONS!!!
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#10
Is it worth it to go all alumiNum or keep the stock plastic on most parts?

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