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TIM's TT-01

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TIM's TT-01
#1
Manufacturer: Tamiya
Model: TT-01
Track Surface: Asphalt
Tires: Sushi
Motor and ESC: Tamiya TEU-101BK
Servo: Hi-tec, HS-322HD

Chassis Settings
Front Setup
Camber: 0
Toe: +1
Caster: 0
Sway Bar (yes/no): No
Ride Height (mm): 3mm
Springs (indicate type, length, hardness, etc): Stock TT-01
Damper Oil (indicate weight or #): Stock TT-01
Upper Damper Position (Lower # indicates inner most position): inner most
Lower Damper Position (Lower # indicates inner most position): outer most
Other (Weights, Mods, etc): TT-01 Increased steering angle mod

Rear Setup
Camber: -3
Toe: 0
Caster (Degrees): 0
Sway Bar (yes/no): Yes
Ride Height (mm): 3mm
Springs (indicate type, length, hardness, etc): Stock TT-01
Damper Oil (indicate weight or #): Stock TT-01
Upper Damper Position (Lower # indicates inner most position): Inner most
Lower Damper Position (Lower # indicates inner most position): Outer most
Other (Weights, Mods, etc): Locked diff

Gearing
Spur (teeth and pitch): 19
Pinion (teeth and pitch): 61

[Image: DSC07104.jpg]
[Image: DSC07105.jpg]
[Image: DSC07107.jpg]
[Image: DSC07109.jpg]
[Image: DSC07110.jpg]
[Image: DSC07111.jpg]
[Image: DSC07113.jpg]

Chassis:
[Image: DSC07318.jpg]
[Image: DSC07320.jpg]
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#2
Looks good..action pics next.. Hehe..
The underdog drifter....
[Image: 117.gif]
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#3
Thanks  =)  I'll get up a few vids too
These pics are oollddd. I'm currently working on a custom steering setup. the tt-01's steering issue is only that it's placed wrongly on the chassis. i'm going to try moving the posts further away to the outer sides of the chassis so that the steering links don't hit the centre shaft. should be fairly simple. just need to extend the link that you screw onto the servo looks that like this, _--_ need to make it look like __--__ so that it reaches the posts. I'm also going to need a turnbuckle set to set the lengths right.

One Q, do i post updates on my ride here? Like changes and shit. or do I make a WIP thread?
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#4
You should go CS :)
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#5
I will. But I've read a lot of mixed reviews about the active hobby set. People tend to break the gear teeth a lot? Another thing I heard was people used an HPI 13T to underdrive the front. it takes some grinding down od the axel though. And another thing I read was someone used a Yokomo 1.8CS kit in their TT-01?
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#6
(01-03-2013, 03:39 PM)tayyab Wrote:  I will. But I've read a lot of mixed reviews about the active hobby set. People tend to break the gear teeth a lot? Another thing I heard was people used an HPI 13T to underdrive the front. it takes some grinding down od the axel though. And another thing I read was someone used a Yokomo 1.8CS kit in their TT-01?

For Yokomo CS Kit, maybe this one might help you http://jonleyrosdiecast.wordpress.com/20...ft-110617/
TAMIYA - NOSRAM - TEAM-POWERS - SAVOX
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#7
Nice tt01 and body. love the hulk-like wing

(01-03-2013, 03:39 PM)tayyab Wrote:  I will. But I've read a lot of mixed reviews about the active hobby set. People tend to break the gear teeth a lot? Another thing I heard was people used an HPI 13T to underdrive the front. it takes some grinding down od the axel though. And another thing I read was someone used a Yokomo 1.8CS kit in their TT-01?

there is also a metal 13t traxxas bevel gear that can be grinded down and used to underdrive the front of your tt01.
We now know the proper procedure for getting these Active gears to run properly. Heres my method. Ive run my active ver1 gears for almost 2 years and they are still going strong.

1st-The active hobby gears need to be shimmed and then test spun by hand. Be sure to check gear meshing between each step.

2nd-re-shim and test spin(by hand only) with gear covers closed and torqued down this time.

3rd- re-shimmed Again and ALL drivetrain play reduced as much as possible. then once she spins smoothly (By hand only), Throttle test run with tires elevated ensuring minimal load on wheels/drivetrain


ONCE you can run her max throttle while elevated (no load) without hearing any loud noise from the gears, your ready for a very slow, light test run. i suggest on a fairly slick surface for minimal drivetrain load.


Important notes:
A) when you apply throttle after shimming and you hear any loud grinding or excessive noise from the rear diff case, DO NOT RUN THE CAR until you reshim, or i almost guarantee you will strip teeth.

B)as soon as you hear grinding or excessive noise or gears stripping, skipping or anything unusual, STOP and inspect the gear mesh.

C) The new Active Hobby ver.2 C.S. Gears are much improved and should be easier to shim and more durable than the previous versions gears. The Above procedure is meant for the more fragile version 1 cs gears, but should also work for the newer cs gears.

i hope this helps you decide to go for a cs setup. Its super fun with the tt01 and well worth the hard work once shes running smoothly.

heres a link to the active hobby blog site where they provide additional installation tips to ensure a long happy cs gear life =)
http://blog.active-online.shop-pro.jp/?cid=28190
Team Ghost Drift
[Image: TGD+official+WHITE+side+decal+Osaka-Sans...+edit1.png]
MST FS-01D cs@2.0
Yokomo DRB cs@1.8
Eagle  R31 RWD
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