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What did u do to your drifter today!
Broke my chassis. ='(  Good old graphite chassis, brings back the days of Team Losi.
Time for WUN Conversion.  B)

[Image: 2n8dcet.jpg]
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How did you manage to do that? You could just get a new graphite replacement tub. :p

-Vic
Stable
  • Yokomo DIB275 Premium (RWD Conversion)
  • Yokomo DPR (Hayato Yoshiba Spec)
  • Yokomo YD-4
  • Yokomo YD-2 PLUS
Drift Gundam Blog
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(12-17-2016, 05:37 PM)DriftGundam Wrote:  How did you manage to do that? You could just get a new graphite replacement tub. :p

-Vic

Clipped the wall, didn't think much of it and then kept going and the diffuser came off next lap.
Wanted to go carbon so 1st looked into the OD Conversion, Top Line, RC926 etc. but considering going the Nervis V2 conversion. My son has a DP8, so what parts don't go into the WUN will just go onto his.
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Let me know if you have any questions about the V2, I have one that I'm slowly parting together (along with my FR-D 3.0).

-Vic
Stable
  • Yokomo DIB275 Premium (RWD Conversion)
  • Yokomo DPR (Hayato Yoshiba Spec)
  • Yokomo YD-4
  • Yokomo YD-2 PLUS
Drift Gundam Blog
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(12-18-2016, 12:12 AM)DriftGundam Wrote:  Let me know if you have any questions about the V2, I have one that I'm slowly parting together (along with my FR-D 3.0).

-Vic

Still not 100% certain if I am going the V2. Keep changing my mind. Not going to order anything till after the new year as to many parcels go missing around this time of year. Also considering the MRD and even the FRD V3 (aluminum chassis). Some stores still have stock of it but here a lot of people have issues with setup on the FRD and don't really want to run saddle pack batteries. Read that the aren't good running stick down the side like the standard setup.
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I like the design of the Nervis 2.0 as it allows for traverse battery placement. I believe that the FR-D 4.0 allows for that as well as the transmission and rear differential case are raised up from the earlier height. The FR-D 3.0 may allow for traverse battery placement if you use the lower-profile shorty lipos, but I am not certain.

You could also mount your battery inline on top of the main deck, but I haven't seen WUN's battery holder available for a long time.

-Vic
Stable
  • Yokomo DIB275 Premium (RWD Conversion)
  • Yokomo DPR (Hayato Yoshiba Spec)
  • Yokomo YD-4
  • Yokomo YD-2 PLUS
Drift Gundam Blog
Reply
Turned the motor a bit to run the wires under the shock tower. Now I can lower the body post so it has better stance.
[Image: d3_repos-01_zpsfwmzxrzl.jpg]
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I want to change the body to Aston Martin DBR9 but D3 front is a bit high so don't know if it's gonna fit. I guess I'll play safe and get the Nissan R34 GTR instead.
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Front:
Those are modded Losi hub carriers. Top was too narrow so I shaved em down a bit. Did it for the negative camber dunno how many degrees, it's not adjustable so it's probably too much if there's a such thing.
The SCT front bumper fits under the rally body so I kept it for extra reinforcement
[Image: IMG_2601.JPG]

I want to get rid of the hub and have a bigger steering angle. Reposition the servo and completely reimagine the steering. If I can't find better outdrives I'll go RWD. So I started playing with parts.
[Image: IMG_2602.JPG]

UPDATE: Proper Carrier Hub Deletion?
[Image: IMG_2615.JPG]
No spacer:
[Image: IMG_2618.JPG]

Back: Dropped it way lower than it came. Lower is better right?
[Image: IMG_2581.JPG]

Battery: 500mAh 2s Lipo. Nothing's burnt up yet. 4x longer runs than stock battery.
[Image: IMG_2604.JPG]

I've got all these spare parts from decades of toys with gears/motors/electrics that I can use to frankenstein/prototype ideas with. I plan to remake the parts from cad/3d print (in nylon right?)
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Installed a couple of hop-ups...

[Image: 17408223_999599550174569_119550388_o_zpsbs0lcath.jpg]

[Image: 17349462_996528117148379_1597772924_o_zpsi5yvazyn.jpg]

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[Image: 17453518_999599503507907_500893354_o_zpsxpbmwo5g.jpg]

[Image: 17431713_999599506841240_1083566547_o_zpsetbdfoyw.jpg]
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