Yokomo Ultima RWD DIB

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It could be that 3.0 deg rear toe in creates too much inward pull that made the front react faster.

Never heard about that should help, i'll write that into my notebook of rwd setup tips Smile
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(This post was last modified: 08-15-2015, 10:07 PM by Woodsnail.)
Yea, Im amazed at how much RWD cars like to straighten up! (too used to CS cars I guess)

0.0 deg rear toe is the go!
[Image: signature_2015.jpg]
I'm having trouble with my TT02 GRT recently that is having trouble with oversteer, it's either fast like a touring car and *snap* it spins around - i'll have a go on the car when i get home for work and see if i have a spare 0 degree toe block laying around. Smile

Though i could also be the +11 offset rims i have in the rear with my +5 in the front to "fill" out my new S13 200m body, it recently came on polished concrete so the setup is not quite there yet.. Carpet is just that easier to setup to Big Grin
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Something I read about steering snap was from RE-Extreme,

If you can, change the servo return speed so that its slower than your initial input speed. I am running this and found it to help smooth out the "snap" feel of our fast servos. When things are slower it might be easier to diagnose the core setup issue

I have a Futaba 4PX and this is how im controlling the return speed.
[Image: DSC_0206.jpg]

Hope that helps
[Image: signature_2015.jpg]
Naww, i've looked through my settings on my Sanwa MX-V and it seems it doesn't have that feature..

Took a look your Futuba - nice specs but the price.. my jaw dropped hard.. are you shitting me with that price tag.. :omg: :lol: :wtf: :O..

Perhaps i should try and get used to the steering with a positive EPA - So i can react in time.. so many settings so little time to our danish drift event in the end of the month..
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Hi guys,

Updating the build log, I had some goodies arrive Big Grin lets get into that shortly

So a few issues I was facing on the second run - I got the whole drive running much smoother by adjusting the rear diff position (its really tight on clearance, about 1mm at the bottom and 2mm on top) so now it rolls very smooth with no pinion in place.

I also tried out a 10.5t motor to get better throttle control but even with that I had to have a massive expo curve (about +50) or VTR. Seems like low end throttle control is very very important for this build.

The car was running better, but I still had some major tuning tweaks needed. The big thing I noticed was the drop in speed when hitting full lock. The wheels were not binding at all but just the whole front configuration was not very good.

I ended up setting the camber to 0 from -5 and that helped, I then made the front suspension stiffer 5 turns at a time until it started responding better. By the end of the day I was able to get around our track using less and less gyro but still not the best setup.


SO to counter some of these issues, I ordered some overdose rear arms for more suspension mounting options on the rear. Some new low scrub front knuckles to tackle the steering and speed drop. And a 12t main drive gear for better throttle control.

Heres some pics

These are the new dedicated D-165 Yokomo RWD hubs 
[Image: DSC_0225.jpg]

Heres the fitting - ive re-adjusted the shock positions to be vertical and in doing so I can remove the upper spacers causing some nasty angle.
[Image: DSC_0231.jpg]

Here are the overdose rear arms, I can now mount the shocks on the shock tower holes and they are much softer! huza
[Image: DSC_0235.jpg]
[Image: DSC_0238.jpg]

Here you can see just how little room there is for the rear diff
[Image: DSC_0237.jpg]

Here you can see the 12t main drive gear - because the belt is so loose I have to add the tensioner back in. Its not mounted brilliantly but its works for now - I plan to dremel out the top plastic section to allow the belt to have more clearance.
[Image: DSC_0239.jpg]

And just for coverage!
[Image: DSC_0242.jpg]

Will keep updating as I go but lets hope these few updates make a big change.

Thanks again for reading and stay tuned
[Image: signature_2015.jpg]
(08-16-2015, 07:23 AM)Andrew3D Wrote: Something I read about steering snap was from RE-Extreme,

If you can, change the servo return speed so that its slower than your initial input speed. I am running this and found it to help smooth out the "snap" feel of our fast servos. When things are slower it might be easier to diagnose the core setup issue

I have a Futaba 4PX and this is how im controlling the return speed.
[Image: DSC_0206.jpg]

Hope that helps

A little update, a respond to your Futuba pic - i went out and bought myself a MT-4, 50% more options and adjustability, it's so great..

I've got return speed on it and i'm loving it so much, i actually use it more on my CS car because it makes the car less snappy to drive.

-40 on the throttle to let the motor cut the power, keeps the slide and -30 on the steering since we know on a CS steering is everything, it really has helped me, i tend to be insecure on trusting the car but now i can stay focused and drive well..

For RWD, it has changed the way i drive, again with the return speed - the slow return helps if you are at angle and changes direction, it slows the whole transistion down without too much trouble..what a wonderful tool Smile

On Topic:
Nice upgrades, do dremel that plastic cover since it looks like it's scrubbing against each other.
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(This post was last modified: 09-14-2015, 06:51 AM by Woodsnail.)
Nice! Clean!

Can we see some pics from its angle? Tongue (from above)
(09-20-2015, 02:06 PM)gabi94 Wrote: Nice! Clean!

Can we see some pics from its angle? Tongue (from above)

Cheers,

Heres some pics of the lock angle

[Image: DSC_0291.jpg]

[Image: DSC_0292.jpg]
[Image: signature_2015.jpg]
Hi Andrew,

Have you done a complete list of all the things you was going to aquire, i'm asking since i looooove my Dib v.2 and after looking at your post for some time, i was slowly thinking of doing the same build, as my tt02 frd is not on the same level of quality and drives under my expectations.

So far the most important, the chassis is available (Edit - I can't confirm an order since directing me to a Alipay side fails) the ultima slide rack is nowhere to be found, though the IB-GC4 is, so i'll use that aswell.

Was the Ultima chassis made for the motormount be mounted backwards? - Was thinking of a TN-Racing chassis, TN-800 from RC-Art that looks similar besides some cutouts design in the middle, that is in stock and ordered before from RC-Art with great succes.
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(This post was last modified: 10-20-2015, 05:54 PM by Woodsnail.)



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