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Yokomo YD-2 build
So last night i followed my instinct and bought a YD-2.

I already have a MST RMX-VIP for CS, for some of the guys at Cookies Drift Lounge thought i should try and convert it to RWD but doing so would destroy a perfect running car, since it maybe would have been upsetting the setup.

The box looks amazing.
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The lowerplate and the english manual.
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Everything laid out of the bed.
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So, onwards, the manual has been greatly improved, with all english words now.
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Some pictures of the parts in bags.
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Since i started late yesterday i've come through the main gear, shock towers and were just finishing the lower A arms in the front.

it includes a diff with some #10.000 oil, but a local buddy has stated that it doesn't matter if the oil is in or what, some O-rings bind at the rear so the resistance is the same, so i didn't put the heavy oil in there, just a little bearing oil to keep it a little "moist"  Lol

The plastic is not as hard on some parts, so be carefull screwing it together.

The screws are finally standard hex 1.5-2.0 in size, that makes easy to build but most of the screws are 10-10+mm so it takes a while, though you would be able replace a faulty screw since they are machined.

This is the progress i've made so far, i'm doing knuckles next, so to be continued  ^^
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i will update the thread as i begin to get a running chassis, as by electronics, i will have to see what i have laying around later today  ^^
MST XXX-D VIP - CS 2.0 - Main


MST RMX-S 2.0 - RWD - Secondary
Thanks for posting this. I look forward to following your progress and the progress of all the YD-2 chassis builds out there.

  • Yokomo DIB275 Premium (RWD Conversion)
  • Yokomo DPR (Hayato Yoshiba Spec)
  • Yokomo YD-4
  • Yokomo YD-2 PLUS
Drift Gundam Blog
(08-26-2016, 09:05 AM)DriftGundam Wrote:  Thanks for posting this. I look forward to following your progress and the progress of all the YD-2 chassis builds out there.


Thanks, yeah they just landed in Denmark and some of us got curious, but i'm the only one who took a tryout.

So our track is polished concrete, slippery as hell, and we run on MST Silver tyres, some are using GA26/CS-R, all CS-R or CS-R/FR-F.

First off, with the kit i got #200 and #300 oil so thought that the rear needed the softer oil and the front the bit more heavy, made the car sluggish at the rear and the front less grippy, so i tried to do a setup out of that.

The car runs good, good speed, good angle, and feels great but since it is all plastic. the weight i in the low 1300 grams and that makes the car unstable and sometimes unpredictable.

it has a tendency of wanting to drive straight, it doesn't help that it comes with 3.5* toe in at the rear, so that was a challenge. Also, when the car came out in almost full lock, it does this weird spinout, as the rear at high angle loses grip suddenly.

The next time i can test it is only on saturday, so in the mean time, i'll try from our local drift shop get 0* degree toeblocks for the rear.

Also i can't really tell if i want the steering in alu since that is the first upgrade i usually do to a plastic car, it worked alright from the factory.
MST XXX-D VIP - CS 2.0 - Main


MST RMX-S 2.0 - RWD - Secondary
I totally forgot to share this, if there is other ppl that have bought the yd-2 and are trying to do a setup, here is Yokomo's site where Takahiro and a unknown has provided some setup's.

Blank, create your own setup and write it down so you know how it was:

Takahiro Yatabe Arena asphalt medium grip:

Takahiro carpet medium grip:

Unknown driver, asphalt low grip:
MST XXX-D VIP - CS 2.0 - Main


MST RMX-S 2.0 - RWD - Secondary
Are you ready for the YD-2 Transformer :D

So i saw this japanese uy on facebook - He took the gearcase, turned it 180* and now had the motor at the rear like a true MST RRX copy.

So i did that of course - it was only 6 screws but here comes the little issue: Since i have turned the gearcase around, i now have my shocktower wrong, the brace between the upper plate and the gear case has to be removed and there isn't any brace, but flex is good. The lower rear arms needs to be turned 180* aswell, so take off the rear toeblock, and flip it - quite easy.

Now the shocks sits in front of the axles and are a little tight spot, i recommend a little 4mm spacer up top to let the shock body be clear of the shocktower, I haven't done it since i'm not to picky, it's plastic vs plastic, it won't scratch anything.

Now the other japanse dude i saw had a custom motormount to place it up there but i had a hard look on the existing motor mount and saw a way to mount the motor on 2 different positions.

Now the motor mount is only held by 1 screw but that is plenti enough if you just put a washer on so the screw would be able to transfer the tension.

I've have the possibility to mount it where it is now on my pics and place it totally vertical - I had a Yokomo Toyota Crown body and the motor was just beneath the window so it is possible to have it under the shell - just don't run a rx-7 or a porsche :D

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MST XXX-D VIP - CS 2.0 - Main


MST RMX-S 2.0 - RWD - Secondary
Can rc body still fit normally with the motor mounted like that?
Excellent Thread , very informative , thanks for sharing... Great for Noobs or those who have been away from the RC world for years.
The build quality of this board with #HyperOutdoor brand because it's great and I am assuming that it should also be run on dirt places easily. Even the performance rate as listed is great for it and I am thinking that how it is so big and powerful.

Anyways thanks a lot Woodsnail for sharing this HyperOutdoor unboxing with all of us.

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