DriftMission RC Drift Forums - Your Home for RC Drifting!

Full Version: Picked up a habit
You're currently viewing a stripped down version of our content. View the full version with proper formatting.
Hey everyone! I final decided to stop drooling over videos and get myself a car. I just went to my LHC and picked one off the shelf.  I  ended up with  a Hpi E10 Gittin jr. Monster  Mustang.  When I got home and researched the E10 chassis, I was  upset at first. Upgrades are going to be tough but I guess I'll just have to get use to overseas shipping.  I Enjoy  learning something new and can't wait to upgrade.
Welcome to the rc drift community. I've had an e-10 and I think the biggest problem with upgrading or parts period, is that the designs used in the chassis are different than any other. If you take it easy on the e-10 it can be a great 50/50 starter chassis. If you find out you really enjoy drifting, look Into m.s.t, Yokomo,street jam and other brands for a chassis you cam truly upgrade. Have fun that's what it all about
Thank you. I've noticed the e10 is like the "red-headed step child". I found that Yeah makes some parts and the Hpi HAD  made some. I will try upgrading what I can before getting a CS chassis. I was thinking about the Sakura D3. I'm thinking low budget while I'm still getting a feel for this.
(03-23-2015, 10:00 AM)DoubleU  RC Wrote: [ -> ]Thank you. I've noticed the e10 is like the "red-headed step child". I found that Yeah makes some parts and the Hpi HAD  made some. I will try upgrading what I can before getting a CS chassis. I was thinking about the Sakura D3. I'm thinking low budget while I'm still getting a feel for this.

Keep in mind with the D3 you still need a few parts to get it performing well. You NEED a front one-way or you will chew through belts. A belt tensioner of some degree is helpful for the center belt, your options are the zero S tensioner or the D3 rear bulkhead V2, I have both. You also may want to get different gears to lower the CS ratio while you're learning. I bought a 15t pulley and a 522 tooth belt to lower the CS ratio to ~1.5. The ratio is ~2.0 out of the box, and is pretty hard to control. It turns a lot of people off from the chassis, but it's not a bad car at all.
Everyone says just that. I'm still looking forward to it though. I like working my way up. I heard all that about the D3  but not counting my E10 out just yet. I just ordered a front one way and a locking rear diff.

I have questions on the electronics side of things. I know the lower the turns on a bush motor means faster. A faster motor means a better esc is required. When it comes to the battery, I know high the mAh equals longer run times. Is there a max mAh that can be used for any giving motor or esc?
(03-23-2015, 10:49 AM)DoubleU  RC Wrote: [ -> ]Everyone says just that. I'm still looking forward to it though. I like working my way up. I heard all that about the D3  but not counting my E10 out just yet. I just ordered a front one way and a locking rear diff.

I have questions on the electronics side of things. I know the lower the turns on a bush motor means faster. A faster motor means a better esc is required. When it comes to the battery, I know high the mAh equals longer run times. Is there a max mAh that can be used for any giving motor or esc?

The longer mAh's are just going to be bigger/heavier batteries, but like you said, longer run times. I use LiPo's, and most of our ESC's won't do more than 2 cells, so keep that in mind when shopping. For the most part, motors and ESC's can be considered separate entities (although I do like to keep brand names together). For instance, I have a speed passion  reventon pro 1.1 esc on my D3, with a 13.5T speed passion motor. I'm probably going to yank it out and put it in a RWD chassis and switch to an 8.5T motor, but I'm going to use the same ESC.
thanks a lot.