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I got the black kit as well, and seems like we will be doing similar colors, haha.

I dont want to thread jack, so Ill just say that it's going to be a full tune. Just waiting for my last order to come in. Build thread should be up next week.
Today was a good day. I finally had some time off from working on building the extension to my house, which meant free time! About damn time~ Also, the shipment I was waiting for finally arrived today. I didn't want to start assembling the chassis until I had my motor mount, and now that it's here, time to turn this "picture" thread, into a "build" thread lol.
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Many thanks go out to Ando-san@Tetsujin for putting up with me and my never ending list of parts requests haha. I'd also like to thank Anthony@Model Garage for supplying the screw set, as well as some Vertex VDR-02 tires in a trade I made with him. It's always good business when dealing with Tetsujin as well as Model Garage. If they have something you are looking for, I highly recommend using either one to order from. Here's my recent pick ups from the good guys at Model Garage
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Anyways time to start a real build thread... 10 pages later. I'll try to give some insight as to why I chose certain parts as I go along, and bitch and cry about how much I spent on this damn car as well haha.

I started off by completely tearing down the Type-C, and building it once again from the ground up. Here are the is a comparison of the Overdose Gear Cases next to the original parts.
The outer shape is slightly different, where Team-Suzuki Type-2 swing arms hug a stock gear case @ full lock, the OD gear cases are shaped slightly different. I believe they are a tad bit more narrow too.
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This picture shows you the inside of the gear cases for comparison. Look quite similar, don't they?
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The only major difference is this small rib on the inside of the stock gear case.
Make sure when you slot your diffs into the OD gearcases, they are installed the right way. This rib on the stock gear cases helped you determine what way the diffs go in.
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Are these gear cases a worthwhile upgrade though? Not really. While they do add weight, which I wanted to do, they are a bling first item in my opinion. If someone tries to tell you this is going to make your chassis perform better, stop talking to them and walk away. They are obviously on some shit. Here's another 100% bling item, the Gear Case Mounts.
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Now, for the rear spool. The stock Yokomo 2.0FCD comes with a piece of shit plastic spool. It will get destroyed pretty quickly, you're going to want something a lot stronger. Personally, I wanted a steel spool. Aluminum spools are prone to damage if your protective blades break mid run, but a steel spool is a good peace of mind item. I ended up getting a Kazama 1.8/2.0 steel spool to replace the stock plastic piece of junk. I was probably better off only buying the 2.0 gears, rather than the full FCD unit. Learn from my mistakes everyone, save some money D:
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Here You can see the stock spool dismantled ready to donate it's life to the Kazama 2.0 steel unit. The gears are also metal gears. This car won't be operational for some time yet, so I didn't lube up the gears... if you are going to be running your car, make sure to add some grease to the gears to make sure they the car runs nice and smooth... and to prolong the life of your parts
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And bam. The Kazama spool put together, ready to mount into the gear case. Make sure you apply thread lock to the screw that binds the two pieces together as well.
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Another small upgrade I made in the rear gear housing of the car was I opted to run a Yokomo hardened input shaft over the stock unit. While I don't think the stock unit would fail me, I wanted the cars drivetrain to be as strong as possible. So I decided to insert this hard shaft into the rear end... lol~ (stock piece is the black one)
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Here's the new spool seated in the Gear case.
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And that's it, the rear end is basically taken care of, and lookin as good as ever.
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I love how the Model Garage Stainless Steel Screw Kit pops on the blue as well, really transforms the look of a chassis.
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Now the following upgrade is one EVERY drift package owner should make. It's a spur gear adapter(pictured left), it allows you to run your own choice of spur gear, rather than the supplied kit one. Makes FDR tuning a lot easier.
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Now here is the piece I waited a long time for. It's the Overdose Motor Mount.
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Instead of using the stupid spring clamp system like the stock motor mount, you now have the option to slide the pinion into the spur for a perfect mesh.
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It's a nice piece, but is this the best alternative? I'd say a good alternative would be the Imadoki Conversion motor mount. Some say it's better design, but I didn't think the Overdose mount was horrible... and at this point, I figured I may as well keep Overdosing the car.
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That doesn't mean the Overdose unit is a shitty item though, it's a great piece in my opinion. It's just that it's not the only good option out there, do your research and decide what's best for you.
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The spur gear adapter is held in position with the stock pin, and a set screw to secure it in place.
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The rear end is looking great so far... but it gets even more mental later on.
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Next up, I went to work on the front end of the chassis. The stock ball diffs never even got built, I went straight to a Front One Way. It's a MUST HAVE upgrade for anyone that is RC Drifting. Once you run it, you won't be able to imagine life without one.
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The goal with this car was to have a fun, high angle, highly capable drift package. To do that I wanted to run a very high cs ratio, and the only way to do that was under drive the front end.
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Luckily I could Spice up the front end using their 1.3 underdrive kit... Manufactured by Spice of course... The quality of their front under drive kits is awesome too.
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The gears are also metal. I remember someone asked me and I forgot... but, yes, they are metal.

Another upgrade I made was just a personal choice. I didn't like the stock aluminum drive shaft, I preferred the carbon composite unit. This is NOT a necessary upgrade... it was just a "want" item.
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The next order of business on the front end, was the steering posts. The stock steering posts just kind of slot into the chassis, and are not secured from the bottom.
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I opted to upgrade mine to a set of blue aluminum units that are secured from both the top and the bottom. Now it's secured from both ends...
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Now this would allow me to secure it down with my new chassis braces. I decided to upgrade the stock plastic units to Overdose front chassis braces, as well as a center bridge to tie both sides of the chassis together. While the center bridge helps even out chassis flex, these are really just bling items. While other manufactures such as RC926 offer similar items, it should be noted the price difference between them and Overdose are VERY similar.
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Next on the agenda as far as the front end went was my Type-C upper arm mounts. Yup, you guessed it, I upgraded them to Overdose units!! This is where the part starts really start moving away from BLING and more towards FUNCTION. These offer three mounting positions over the stock 1, and help keep the upper arms stable/supported.
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Next on the agenda as far as the front end went was my Type-C upper arm mounts. Yup, you guessed it, I upgraded them to Overdose units!! This is where the part starts really start moving away from BLING and more towards FUNCTION. These offer three mounting positions over the stock 1, and help keep the upper arms stable/supported.
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The upper arm pin screws into the front tower, which also makes maintenance a breeze.
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So, what's it all look like when it's buttoned up? Here's the front gear case, braces, bridge, and A-arm mounts. Looks pretty fantastic to me... seriously, does anyone even say fantastic anymore? I think this is the first time I've used it... Anyways, however bling, and unnecessary the items may be, god do they look good. This is just me trying to justify my purchases... and it's becoming rather easy to do so after looking at this.
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I also bought some Overdose Chassis braces for the rear of the car. They offer two additional mounting points for the rear camber link. More adjustability is always welcomed.
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However, I ended up shaving mine down, you will see why later on.
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Now, let's talk shock towers. Of course I went with Overdose shock towers, and compared to other Aluminum shock towers such as RC926, they blow them out of the water as far as adjustability goes. And contrary to popular believe, they are priced similar too. However, RC926 is coming out with some Carbon Shock Towers, and they offer A TON of adjustability. TN-Racing also make a great set of shock towers, so if you are in the market for a new set, there are many great options available to you.
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That said, I mounted my front shock towers and got to work installing the front upper arms, as well as lower arms. I will say this, the lower arms are temporary. I will be switching to Kondo Custom Wrap-Up Next lower arms on this very shortly. I want to run around 60* of steering lock... I'm not sure if my current knuckles will allow this though.
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And that brings me to the front knuckles. When I bought my Drift Package Type-C, I got it for an ABSOLUTE steal, and when I say steal, I say $70 brand new in box steal. That left me with a lot of leftover money to spend, and what did I do? Blew it on a set of TN-Racing H2 Riku front knuckles.
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Built in KPI, great looking knuckles, but I'm going to say I doubt that they are worth what I spent on them. Which was a lot. This was an impulse buy. Time will tell how happy I am with them. They do offer a lot more adjustability over stock though.
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Here are the stock knuckles for comparison... WEAK. If you want to save money, just cut them down and redrill for more angle. Cheap, free, and a lot more steering angle.
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I must say, they look amazing though, and the construction is great. But for the cost, I'm not sure.. I'll reserve judgement for when I get the car running.
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Here's a good picture to show you the built in KPI. I've never driven a car setup with KPI before, should be fun.
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The front end is really coming together nicely... it's missing something though. Something to really finish it off...
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And that would be an Overdose front bumper. Bling item, nuff said. It adds weight to the front of the car too, which some people don't like. I don't mind a little extra weight up front.
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Really adds a nice finishing touch to the front end of the car.
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So that is basically the front end done for now. Moving on to the rear of the car. This is going to be a temporary setup, but I will be running a link setup on this car until I convert to a RC926 Carbon Fiber Chassis.

Here are the main components of the Active Hobby setup. Swing arms, and suspension arms. This is also the reason I shaved down my Overdose rear chassis braces.
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Make sure you follow the instructions when you are putting it together... there is being a man and figuring things out on your own, then there are headaches. This will cause you a headache. Be a man, read the instructions. Here it is all assembled, and ready to go on the car.
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The final result? Looks pretty f***ing cool. I guess I will have to wait until I run it to see how it effects handling.
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From what I have read, this setup really allows you to throw a car around in the corners, and still maintain control and come out of some serious over speed entries.
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God it looks cool... can't waiiiiiiit to get this car running and get it all set up.
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Unfortuneatly the Carbon Chassis I plan to use to replace the stock tub will not allow for me to use the link setup. That means it will eventually find it's way onto my FR-D... Which also means I shaved my rear chassis braces for no god damn reason. Maybe I'll buy another set... and waste more money...
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Anyways, that's where I am at now. I only have to wait for my Rear Hubs, Steering Wipers, and some hinge pins. I'll be done the chassis for now after those parts arrive. ETA is end of this month, or early next month.
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Then it's time for the big spend... Electronics. Plans?

Keyence Luxon KG 8.5T
Keyence Tachyon Aria SB
Either a Sanwa SRG-BL or a Savox 1251mg servo... Maybe I'll even consider a RC OMG one. This one is up in the air.
Receiver will be a Sanwa RX471, or RX451.
That just looks awesome Genki!

Do you plan on going aluminum front lower&upper arms as well?
Thanks Guys. ^^~

@Ant - I'll be running Wrap-Up Y-Arms only. No plans for aluminum upper arms.
very nice.

I like your write up...

Very informative for everyone.

I temporarily moved the electrics from my RWD back to my SSG Drift Package last night.

I love that chassis.

you said you have the carbon on the way?

Why not the new RC926 carbon conversion... it would be awesome!!!!!!!
This is dope
(06-05-2013, 06:15 PM)RE-Xtreme RC Wrote: [ -> ]very nice.

I like your write up...

Very informative for everyone.

I temporarily moved the electrics from my RWD back to my SSG Drift Package last night.

I love that chassis.

you said you have the carbon on the way?

Why not the new RC926 carbon conversion... it would be awesome!!!!!!!

Thanks, I tried to make the write up as informative/non bias as possible. I didn't realize how long it was until I was done haha~

I may have worded it wrong in the writeup, but I plan to run the new RC926 carbon conversion... I'm waiting for it to release :D

I don't believe the link setup will work with that chassis though, and if that's the case, I will just use it on my FR-D. No biggie.

Jealous... I can't wait to get my Drift Package up and running as well! I only have one set of electronics :(

(06-05-2013, 08:56 PM)robb41488 Wrote: [ -> ]This is dope

Thanks Robb!!
awesome write up! im very tempted to buy a drift package and slowly build it up!
The drift package can hang with the best of them with the right upgrades, but it's definitely not the greatest car out of the gate.

Antinnous made a great budget friendly drift package. CLICK HERE TO SEE IT
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