Welcome, Guest
You have to register before you can post on our site.


  

Password
  





Latest Threads

Search Forums

(Advanced Search)

 
  Yr rwd conversion for sprint 2
Posted by: Cynicalvapsta - 12-29-2017, 09:16 AM - Forum: Rear Wheel Drive (RWD) - Replies (3)

Anynone have any experience with this conversion kit. Good , bad?

Sent from my SM-G950W using DriftMission

Print this item

  RC Drifting in Slow Motion from Stuttgart / GER
Posted by: DIGITAL RC - 12-27-2017, 04:20 AM - Forum: RC Drift Videos - No Replies

I captured some nice drifting cars in stuttgart/germany and put them into slow motion  B)
any comment / share / subscription is appreciated :)

Have fun!

https://youtu.be/xWLMKbnfjcM



Print this item

  Team Tetsujin Nissan Skyline 2000 GT-R Body
Posted by: wilkewhaq - 12-21-2017, 09:22 AM - Forum: News and Announcements - No Replies

This new body from Team Tetsujin has just been announced, and is now available. Another fantastic classic release from our friends at Team Tetsujin with the release of this 2000 GT-R with Liberty Walk kit. This is the latest RC Drift body to come from Team Tetsujin, and will be the another amazing body to feature a Liberty Walk body kit.

As you can see from the photos below Team Tetsujin has done an amazing job replicating the fine detail on the Liberty Walk Skyline Kenmeri KPGC110. Looks like 2018 will be off to a great start for RC Drifting!
This body looks fantastic just like the previously released Tetsujin Toyota Majesta, Tetsujin Toyota Crown, and The Team Tetsujin Toyota Mark X Body. We expect the details to be just as good if not better!
Team Tetsujin Nissan Skyline 2000 GT-R KPGC110 x Liberty Walk Body

Model: Nissan Skyline 2000 GT-R KPGC110 x Liberty Walk Kit
Size: 1/10 Scale
Wheelbase: 260mm
Width: 203mm
Officially Licensed by Nissan Motor Co./Liberty Walk
Manufactured by: TEAM-TETSUJIN
Includes: light buckets (shell parts) / decal / masking sheet / oil cooler / oil cooler hose / fender mirror / fuel cap / front bumper / face panel / rear panel / wing : separate type
5,940JPY



LB★PERFORMANCE

Source: Team Tetsujin

Posted on Thu, 21 Dec 2017 15:13:03 +0000 at https://driftmission.com/team-tetsujin-n...i-kpgc110/

Comments: https://driftmission.com/team-tetsujin-n...0/#respond

Print this item

  Greetings from Italy
Posted by: Nijal - 12-20-2017, 01:08 AM - Forum: Introductions - Replies (1)

Hi all,
after 3 years of Crawlers and Scalers, I'd like to try drifting, together with some other friends of our local club.
Hope to get some help and hints on this forum ^^ !
The car that I'm going to get (on it's way from the vendor) it's a Sakura D4 AWD.

Have fun and have a great day!
Nijal

Print this item

Warning First RC Drift Car
Posted by: AlaskaRc907 - 12-19-2017, 11:44 PM - Forum: Help Section - Replies (4)

Hi there this is my first time on these forums and I would like some feedback on a decision I'm trying to make. I live in Alaska where there are no true RC drift tracks but I am planning on making one up at my cabin where I have a large space to put a fun little layout. I am a sort of drift prodigy to everyone who knows me knows that if it can slide I'll slide it(Dirtbikes, Snowmobiles Side By Sides four wheelers and full on trucks). I want to buy a fun car that can be upgraded and will be reliable. However, I am worried that I'll learn and surpass 50/50 and CS drifting and go to a whole new setup. I think if I went straight to RWD that i would be able to learn it without to much trouble but am also a little worried about getting a good chassis so I can learn how to drift a little. I have done a lot of research and am currently leaning toward an MST FXX-D S or an HPI sprint 2 (If i can ever find one). Please give me some suggestions and tell me if I would be able to just go straight to RWD. Thanks for the Help!

Print this item

  sakura d4 sport black editon vs standard d4
Posted by: DrifterHoboATL - 12-15-2017, 03:35 PM - Forum: 3 Racing - Replies (4)

whats up guys. im looking to get into rc drifting and ive been doing a lot of research. ive never done anything more advanced than an xmod(hahaha) when i was younger. after some research ive settled on a sakura for my first build based on them being relatively inexpensive, a good following and good amount of aftermarket parts, and ive heard its a good kit to learn on both for building and driving. 

ANYWAY, my initial thought was to buy a d3 cs but i have found that the rwd is the favorite/standard now so i started looking into the d4 rwd. i then learned the d3 and d4 are discontinued (so the d3 i was looking at on amazon was probably a fake knockoff). This has all lead me to the the d4 sport black edition rwd. i just wanted to pick some brains about the new monoshock setup up front and to see how you guys would compare the overall quality to the regular d4 rwd. i realize ill probably have to buy a second hand standard d4 rwd if i decide to go that route which is a con for me because i was really looking forward to building my chassis and personalizing my build. 

Like I said, i am brand new to this scene and would love to talk to someone about these 2 chassis and just rc drift in general. any advice or pro tips are MUCH appreciated. 

thanks!
-Sean  B)

Print this item

Warning Lipo connected into esc wrong!
Posted by: RC DRIFTER1738 - 12-14-2017, 05:30 PM - Forum: Help Section - Replies (4)

OMG EVERYONE, i just plugged my 7.4v lipo into my stock mst esc and something started smoking! I have an ms-01d drift car and the car isn't even turning on! I have nothing upgraded on the car except having a 7.2v nicd battery. It is a 5000mah venom battery. SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME I'M VERY WORRIED!!!!!! 
Thanks for the help 
='(

Print this item

  new to rc from atlanta
Posted by: DrifterHoboATL - 12-14-2017, 01:51 PM - Forum: Introductions - Replies (6)

what is up guys. i am from atlanta and am just starting to get into the rc scene. the most experience ive had with rc was an xmod when i was younger haha. right now im looking into getting the sakura d3 cs chassis for a starter and researching what components to put into it. ive heard the cs has quite the learning curve but im looking forward to learning the technique. like i said, i am brand new to the rc scene so any advice, links, pro tips are much appreciated. ive been looking for some good sakura builds on these forums but being new to the rc world i know close to nothing about all the components i need and what to look for when picking certain components. kind of learning this whole thing as i go. 
thanks in advance for any tips and help!
-Sean

Print this item

  My Type-C/YD-2 hybrid?
Posted by: NoizY - 12-10-2017, 06:00 AM - Forum: RC Drift Chassis Picture Gallery - Replies (3)

Maybe someone have type c/yd2 like me?!



Attached Files Thumbnail(s)
   
Print this item

Image Traxxas Rustler ~ Sand Buggy Turned Drift Car
Posted by: SlammedRustler125 - 12-08-2017, 05:25 PM - Forum: Introductions - Replies (4)

So, I'm VERY new here... The name's Everett, and boy, have I got a build to show you. Picture this - you have 2 rustler chassis (1 velineon brushless, one good ol' brushed) and was getting bored of the offroad cycle - Run, Break, Buy, Repair, and was starting to be very interested in drifting. And voila, I order a set of drift tires, a set of rims and a Tamiya Torque Tuned RS540 barrel motor. After dialing my suspension setup and tire composites, and doing tons of tiny things to the build, My dad (Who raced RC's in the 90's and lost very rarely) found his old Acto-Power Touring Special Motor From the early 90s and gave it too me, as he is now building RC crawlers and has very little interest in racing anymore. Anyways, After some slight research on these motors which are now discontinued apparently put out 440g/cm of torque and capable of over 30000rpm If you are running advanced timing. Just got it put in tonight as I have been busy with school, and have nowhere to run it because I live in Canada and currently have over a foot of snow and this car has 0 ground clearance. Been quite the tangent so you can already tell I feel right at home on the DriftMission forums. Only having slight issues with uploading my pictures as thier filesize is far too big

Print this item

Magic8ball Help me choose a budget rc drift car
Posted by: Edgarc - 12-08-2017, 02:55 PM - Forum: General Discussion - Replies (4)

I plan on buying my first rc drift car but need help i have 3 options, which is the best?
Option 1 : (kyosho EP fazer drift rtr) $209
Option 2: (tamiya tt-02D kit arr) $176 excluding remote, battery, charger, servo
Option 3: (HPI racing e10 drift rtr) $200
I plan on keeping it stock so what do you guys recommend?

Print this item

  Help me choose a budget rc drift car
Posted by: Edgarc - 12-08-2017, 02:31 PM - Forum: Help Section - Replies (1)

I plan on buying my first rc drift car but need help i have 3 options, which is the best?
Option 1 : (kyosho EP fazer drift rtr) $209
Option 2: (tamiya tt-02D kit arr) $176 excluding remote, battery, charger, servo
Option 3: (HPI racing e10 drift rtr) $200
I plan on keeping it stock so what do you guys recommend?

Print this item

  Lego Drifting
Posted by: K1419 - 12-06-2017, 10:58 PM - Forum: Introductions - No Replies

Greetings from K1419!

I own a custom lego 4wd drift car I built myself.
Looking for people also into building drift chassis from scratch.

Cheers, 
K1419

Print this item

  Wekfest Houston 2017 Layout
Posted by: austinonevia - 12-06-2017, 12:04 PM - Forum: Drift Track Layouts - No Replies

Last weekend I went and helped set up the R/C drift track by RC Garage at Wekfest Houston, here are a few pictures of the event. RC Garage TX is a really cool local shop and track here in Houston. We tried to make a replica of Ebisu Minami. It wasn't perfect, we could have used more space for the tighter corners, but overall it was very fun. The jump actually worked like it does on the real course too.





[Image: anV0NaS.jpg]

[Image: ImRfu5y.jpg]

[Image: 7nXpqkq.jpg]

[Image: faOZ8PZ.jpg]

Print this item

  Hello from Houston TX
Posted by: austinonevia - 12-06-2017, 11:58 AM - Forum: Introductions - No Replies

Hey everyone, I've been browsing this site for a long time and finally made a profile, even though it seems like this forum is dying. :(
I drift at a local track here in Houston called RC Garage quite often. I got a Sprint 2 as my first drift oriented chassis a few years ago, and a year and a half ago finally got into RWD. Up until two weeks ago, I was using a MST FXX-D. I bought a Yokomo YD2S Plus to replace it and I love it.

I've found lots of help on various threads on this forum, and I hope it becomes more active again.



-Austin

Print this item

Video Off Road Racer Becomes Part Time Drifter
Posted by: Vital-Blurs - 12-05-2017, 02:23 AM - Forum: Introductions - No Replies

Hi everyone.

I'm still fairly new to the RC drifting scene, but I've been racing 1/10th scale electric off road for the last 4 years or so, at Adelaide Radio Controlled Raceway (ARCR) in South Australia. Having an outdoor clay track to race on every fortnight is pretty sweet, yet it takes a huge amount of work to maintain and the weather can bring the season to a complete halt occasionaly. Sometimes months between race meetings!  I needed something indoors  =S

Thankfully, I could see that RWD was now the way and decided on an MST FXX-D in RTR form with the Tamiya BRZ body to get me started quickly. I just finished off the body wth some decals, LED's, pipes and magnetic mounts.

[Image: NvGSVfah.jpg]

 [Image: wJ87JUnh.jpg]

[Image: uDqkKRlh.jpg]

[Image: h69zLaPh.jpg]

[Image: GXaBMF0h.jpg]

[Image: vdAUwNzh.jpg]

I found the car extremely easy to drive straight away with the gyro set at the default 100%, although a little twitchy. With half a dozen packs of practice and the gyro turned back to about 50% it's an absolute breeze to drive. It's such a relaxing way to enjoy RC and a nice change of pace from racing  =) 

What good is a drift car without somewhere to drive it properly though?....thankfully the Warehouse Sliders are based only 5 minutes down the road from me and on the opposite weekend to my off road commitments. Lucky me!

I've also been producing race videos for ARCR for some time and of course, my YouTube channel is now quickly filling up with drifting vids, too.  Here's one from the last session just a couple of days ago. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IdJdjhQ-CbI

*Until I figure out how this forum likes its YT links inserted. Every forum seems to be different. Any tips?



Print this item

  Budget smooth electronics
Posted by: Seriogadfgh - 12-02-2017, 09:03 AM - Forum: Electronics - Replies (3)

Hello, I'm really lost now thinking about what electronics could be rivals for accuvance cause it's kinda costy so I thought about creating this topic and find out what people run as their budget electronics which can compare in smoothness and adjustability near the accuvance, I'm really waiting for your replies people Sick what could be a good electronics combo.

Print this item

Bookmark Will you buy this for us$300?
Posted by: ron0010 - 12-02-2017, 07:47 AM - Forum: Help Section - Replies (3)

An rtr drift yokomo. 
New body, txrx, and electronics comes with batt and charger.
Please help me decide. Your opinion counts.  Angel

   

   

Print this item

Next Newbie. Hoping to buy this for 198usd.
Posted by: ron0010 - 12-01-2017, 04:35 AM - Forum: Introductions - Replies (5)

Hi guys. I really want to have an rc but i do not have an idea about the cost if i'm buying 2nd hand. I saw this post in a group and hoping to buy and start playing. Is it a good price? It comes with a brushless motor, esc, lipo batts, tx/rx, and metal gear servo. 

Thanks.



Attached Files Thumbnail(s)
       
Print this item

Exit Hello From Gibraltar
Posted by: Vtek - 11-26-2017, 04:03 PM - Forum: Introductions - No Replies

Hello all from Gibraltar just got back into rc drifting since ages got a new mst fxx ifs and it rocks so glad to be her with you all XD

Print this item

  Yeah Racing YD-2 Upgrade Kit Review by Oversliders
Posted by: Tiger.T - 11-21-2017, 07:38 AM - Forum: News and Announcements - No Replies

Once again Yeah Racing is killing it with an entire set of Hop-ups for the YD-2.
And as usual, I had to restart from scratch by putting my chassis back to stock to really appreciate the upgrades. Let's take a look at all the goodness.
Carbon Lower and Upper Decks:
[Image: DSC_0171-1024x681.jpg]
Well, almost stock since I kept my weight shift kit :P
I really like the look of the carbon plate in their conversion, but the most amazing thing about this kit is the price! $50 for the lower deck, and $15 for the upper! That's a $65 carbon conversion set! WTF. The fit is on point and the cut is actually quite good. Obviously you won't get some super smooth edges like a high end deck, but you're not getting some cheap knock off quality either. It's just right and will do the job fine.
[Image: DSC_0170-1024x681.jpg]
Now let's look at the alloy!
The kit brings you the following: a motor mount, front shock tower, front lower arms, front upper arms, rear shock tower, rear lower arms, adjustable length CVDs, a new steering bridge, and cool looking bumper plate. And once again, the price is ridiculous! this entire pack is under $120 and provides you all the adjustability needed and some! The whole thing include clear instructions for installation and adjustability.
[Image: DSC_0273-1024x681.jpg]
Motor Mount:
[Image: collage1-1024x522.jpg]
The motor mount allows you to setup your motor in 3 positions: stock - high upfront - high back.
Since I'm using my weight shift kit I opted for the high back position and it worked wonders. I really fell in love with this piece because of it's super sharp design and graphics. It felt very reminiscing of a Gundam look.
Lower Control Arms:
[Image: collage3-1024x625.jpg]
The lower control arms are also pretty impressive. The construction is super lean and almost too thin at first sight, but after assembling them and giving them a few tugs, I realized they were actually quite strong and will do just fine on the track. Now with that said, I would be careful if you go to tracks with sharp wall ends where wheels could get caught. At high speed, I'm sure these puppies won't like a hard impact.
[Image: collage5-1024x614.jpg]
They have adjustable track with a single screw which make for quick adjustments and offer a lot of mounting positions for your shocks. One feature I liked a lot was that the droop screw hole has an O-ring in it which prevents your setting from changing due to shock or vibration. That's a neat feature I had not seen used on these grub screws before, but make a lot of sense.
[Image: DSC_0274-1024x681.jpg]
Shock Towers & Front Upper Arms:
[Image: collage7-1024x502.jpg]
The front tower is a big improvement over the stock plastic one. You basically get about 4 times more mounting position for your shocks. The fit is also perfect and lines up with rear bridge perfectly. I would not have expected less from Yeah Racing. As for the upper arms, they are quite standard for today's trends. A lean and clean piece of aluminum with a tightening screw for the turbuckle. You re-use your factory hardware and done.
[Image: collage4-1024x522.jpg]
The rear tower had me scratching my head for a second when I first looked at it through the bag. I thought something was missing until I opened it and realized the turnbuckle mount was under the tower! What a slick trick it is. This is a great way to shave some weight and still keep the adjustability needed to perform. I most likely will have to mess around with the proper spacers combination to get the right roll.
[Image: collagebad-1024x307.jpg]
One thing I thought was weird was the clearance for the damper mounting screw. For some reason, when using the inner most position, I did not remember having binding issues with my spur on the stock towers. I have not had a chance to verify why I was getting this difference but it can be easily fixed by spacing the shock tower back a few millimeters to slide a nylon lock nut in there. (sorry for the dark pic)
The Steering Bridge:
[Image: collage6-1024x307.jpg]
the steering bridge replacement is pretty sweet. It seems to be really close to the Carb-D system, but the bridge positions sits a lot further within the bulkhead than the last one. This should result is wider range of motion and a slightly increased angle ability. If bought by itself, this part is $17 only which is a must have on this car. Buying this by itself would already be a great hop-up for your car.
[Image: collage2-1024x614.jpg]
I paired this cool steering bridge with the even cooler Power HD Storm 7 brushless servo, and Yeah Racing servo mount. The black on black look is just so satisfying.
Adjustable CVDs:
[Image: collage9-1024x225.jpg]
Just like the big names out there, these adjustable CVDs are a must have to pair with the adjustable arms. The construction is solid and they come with a double set screw engagement so they shouldn't come lose anytime soon. Everything was a direct fit in the orginal rear uprights and no shimming was required.
Powerplant upgrades:
These upgrades were not YD-2 specific but I felt like they were worth showcasing.
Since I'm building this chassis for my significant other, I ended up using some Sanwa electronic instead of Acuvance. But the Sanwa cooling is just meh... so once again Yeah Racing came to the rescue!
[Image: DSC_0262-1024x681.jpg]
I ended up using the 25mm to 30mm fan adapter, the gnarly aluminum tornado fan, and fan shroud. This came out super clean and almost look like a factory setup. These fans can be hardwired to the ESC + & - battery connection to run at their full potential. If used plugged in your receiver, they will most likely get 6V like most system, but there can actually run on a fully charged lipo at 8.4V! The one thing to be careful when doing that is to not leave your battery plugged otherwise you can discharge a lipo below its safe voltage. On the other hand, I think it's great to do it that way because it's a good reminder to unplug your lipo once you're done with your run. We all heard freak stories of car bursting into flames for no reasons whatsoever.
Overall impression:
After all these upgrades you'll be about $180 deep with alloy and carbon parts, but considering you can get yourself a YD-2 for about $170, then get decked out for such a low cost, it's a very attractive setup. The YD-2 Plus retails around $350 and doesn't even bring this level of adjustability so it clearly is a no brainer. As for the quality of the kit, everything met or exceeded my expectations. It's clever, it looks sharp, and it's affordable.
And every upgrade has it's own set of instructions as well so it's very easy to install.
Extra bits:
I also added some WUN VX knuckles to replace the factory ones and the whole result came out really good. Low bump steer and plenty of turning angle.
[Image: collage8-1024x522.jpg]
The final result is a great chassis for about $350 (Yeah Racing products only), which will provide a considerable amount of adaptability and fun for any experience level. I also believe this chassis can easily dominate competitions if tuned right.
[Image: DSC_0266-1024x681.jpg]
I did forget to showcase the bumper plate, but you can catch it on the Oversliders Instagram and as you'll see it is just like the rest of the kit, super clean and sharp.
Overall this kit gets an A in my book and is totally worth every penny.
All these cool parts can be purchased through RCMart or your local Yeah Racing distributor.

Print this item

  How to maintain the Lipo battery?
Posted by: DivenParker - 11-17-2017, 12:44 AM - Forum: Electronics - No Replies

What's a lipo battery? Lipo battery, its full name is lithium polymer battery, people also called Li-po battery, or more correctly lithium-ion polymer battery (abbreviated as LiPo, LIP, Li-poly and others). Lipo is a rechargeable battery of lithium-ion technology using a polymer electrolyte instead of a liquid one. High conductivity semisolid polymers form this electrolyte. These lipo batteries provide a higher specific energy than other lithium-battery types. It is a newer type of battery now used in many consumer electronics devices, such as drone lipo battery, car lipo battery and Airplane battery. They have been gaining in popularity in the radio control industry over the last few years, and are now the most popular choice for anyone looking for long run times and high power. 

There are some tips about How to maintain the Lipo battery?

Before Charge

  • Please read the charger instruction book before charging.

  • Always check the voltage of Batteries before each charge session in order to ensure they are at or above the minimum safe starting voltage. If starting voltage is below recommended levels then Batteries have been over discharged or have experienced a failure and should NOT be charged.

  • Always check the battery before charging for any type of damage. Check the battery packaging, wires and connectors for defects, which may cause a short circuit and eventual battery failure.

  • Make sure you are using charge leads which are compatible with the battery connectors.

  • User should check the polarity of the battery cable and charger lead carefully before the connection to avoid any short circuit.

  • Always verify the charger is in good condition. A poor quality charger can be dangerous.

  • It is solely your responsibility to assure that the charger you use works properly. Always monitor the charging process to assure batteries are being charged properly. Failure to do so may result in a fire.
Charging
  • Only use charger designed for lithium polymer/Lion battery. Do not use a NIMH/ NICD/ LIFEPO4/ LEAD ACID charger. If the charger can support different battery types. Be absolutely sure to select the Lithium polymer (Lipo) mode on the charger. Failure to do so may cause a fire, which may result in personal injury and property damage.

  • User should Always charge Batteries in an open area away from flammable materials, liquids and surfaces.

  • Never charge Batteries inside of the model.

  • Never charge batteries below freezing (0°C, 32°F)

  • Never charge Batteries that are hot to the touch (above 100° F). DO NOT handle Batteries until they are cool.

  • User should Always set the charger to the proper cell count and/or voltage listed on Batteries’ labels.

  • User should Always set the charger to the amp charge rate as listed on Batteries’ labels.

  • The charger should never be set to charge Batteries at a rate greater than 1C (One (1) times the capacity of Batteries in amp hours) unless another C rate is specified in the manufacturer’s product documentation or the rate is preset as part of a specific battery and charger combination. DO NOT alter the charge rate once charging has begun.

  • Never overcharge Batteries beyond the capacity listed on Batteries’ labels.

  • Never overcharge batteries over their rated maximal voltage (4.2V/cell for LiPo).

  • It must choose series charging if two or more battery packs be connected in series for using.

  • Use suitable and good quality chargers, please don’t use cheap and low quality chargers, use the professional Lithium polymer charger to charge the Gens ace & Tattu battery. When charging, please make sure the surroundings is clean, without sundries around. Don’t charge without monitoring. Using lipo sack is suggested when charging to ensure the charging safety. Stop charging timely when the battery is fully charged. Do not connect the charger and the battery for a long time when the battery is fully charged. We will not be responsible for any personal in jury and property lost or any kind accident that caused by improper charging.
Discharging
  • Never discharge Batteries at amperage rates higher than specified on Batteries’ labels.

  • Never allow the temperature of Batteries to exceed 140°F during discharge. Adequate cooling for Batteries is required, especially when discharging at or near maximum rates.

  • Never discharge Batteries to voltage below which they are rated by the manufacturer when measured under load(connected to the vehicle or a charger capable of discharge). Batteries discharged to a voltage lower than the lowest approved voltage may be damaged, resulting in loss of performance and potential fire when Batteries are charged.

  • Never discharge battery to a level below 3V per cell under load. For Tattu series batteries which are used for Unmanned Aircraft System, The recommended cut off voltage is 3.5V per cell.

  • Never leave battery unattended during the discharging process. During the discharging process, user should monitor the process constantly and react to potential problem that may occur.

  • In case of emergency, discontinue the process immediately, disconnect the battery, place it in a safe area, and observe it for approximately one hour. This may cause the battery to leak and the reaction with air may cause the chemicals to ignite, resulting in a fire. A safe area should be outside of any building or vehicle and away from any combustible materials. A battery can still ignite even after one hour.

  • User need to check the conditions of the battery before use it or discharge it. Stop using it if user found the cells are not balanced or cells are puffing or weeping.
Lipo Battery Storage:
  • Do not directly connect the terminals with metal objects. This will short-circuit Batteries, resulting in heat and electrical discharge.

  • Never store loose Batteries together, the Batteries’ terminals may contact one another causing a short circuit.

  • Never storage Batteries to extreme temperatures or direct sunlight. The battery should be stored within -10℃ ~ 45℃ range environmental condition. If the battery has to be stored for a long time (Over 3 months), the environmental condition should be: Temperature: 23±5℃, Humidity: 65±20%RH, The voltage for a long time storage should be 3.6V~3.9V range per cell.

  • Always disconnect Batteries when not in use and store Batteries in a non-conductive and fireproof container.

  • Never alter, puncture or impact Batteries or related components.

Print this item

  Fitting an engine bay
Posted by: stanced x drift - 11-16-2017, 01:30 PM - Forum: Help Section - No Replies

I’ve recently been building a e30 touring with a b52 engine bay, but I am having trouble getting it to sit low enough to not look bad, any help?

Print this item

  Hello
Posted by: dany_rizkallah - 11-16-2017, 08:38 AM - Forum: Introductions - Replies (2)

Hello guys , i am new in this forum , fan of RC CARS , has some cars like HPI sprint2 flux, now looking to buy a drift rc car pro . So i need your help and suggestions on what to buy and how to build looking forward for your feedback and happy to be in this forum. I have checked some brands like yokomo, MST , EAGLE ..... BUT DONT K IW WHICH ONE IS THE BEST and i dont know if i must buy it 4wd or 2wd Kindly provide me with your feedback like car brand which types and electronics . Looking forwarddddd

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

Print this item

  Convert RE-R to Hyrbid version
Posted by: andersonwal - 11-15-2017, 10:28 AM - Forum: Other Manufacturers - Replies (1)

Has anyone tried converting the D-Like RE-R to the Hybrid version. If so is the cost worth it and what all did you have to get and where did you get it?

Print this item

  Hi
Posted by: stanced x drift - 11-12-2017, 02:52 PM - Forum: Introductions - Replies (1)

Just wanted to say hi, I’m newish to the forums and been drifting for about 1yr. I have a d4 RWd and run a s13 hatch with removable bumpers and hood with an engine bay inside, may post pics soon

Print this item

Warning YG-302 GYRO
Posted by: xXOnyxX - 11-05-2017, 07:32 AM - Forum: Electronics - Replies (2)

i have a yokomo yg-302 gyro in my yd-2 it chatters and locks up then it reboots ... the servo is a OMG d22-13s ....the gyro was set to digital .......the gyro works fine on analog servos ... help anyone!!!!

Print this item

  New to drifting
Posted by: Matt8874 - 11-04-2017, 08:11 PM - Forum: Guides - No Replies

Hello drifters, I need some advice on rc cars.

I haven't purchased a car yet as I am just looking into this hobby.
I'd like to know how often you have to replace parts and maintain an rc car.
And also I would like any suggestions on a first car, preferably like a 1/10 or something slightly smaller. It needs to be $150 or less and RTR out of box.

Thanks!!

Print this item

  Newbie from Ireland
Posted by: Drifterex - 11-04-2017, 06:39 AM - Forum: Introductions - No Replies

Hey people, my name is Mark, and I'm from Ireland. Got into rc drifting 9 or 10 years ago, but between one thing and another I lost touch with the hobby. Have a TT01 and MR4TC SD from back then gathering dust on a shelf, but would love to get back into it now. So hopefully I'll get some pointers or advice from you all, and won't wreck your head too much with questions, as I'm sure a lot has changed since I was last involved in this (rwd wasn't really a thing the last time around) 

Cheers, 
Mark.

Print this item

  Scale drifting
Posted by: Drift12345678 - 11-01-2017, 09:23 AM - Forum: Help Section - Replies (3)

Thanks Hey, I recently got back into drift big and after watching so many drift videos I was wondering how you get your transitions so smooth. IM guessing it's perfect set up (camber,toe,tires,shocks etc.) so what do you guys do to/setup to get such smooth transitions. Thanks  =)   (I'm running on smooth concrete)

Print this item

Forum Stats

Welcome, Guest
You have to register before you can post on our site.


  

Password
  





Latest Threads

Search Forums

(Advanced Search)



About DriftMission.com - Your Home for RC Drifting

Your home for everything RC Drift! DriftMission.com offers RC Drift news, reviews, guides, chassis, videos, tips, countersteer tools, bodies, builds and more!

Serving up the latest RC Drift content since 2011.