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  newbie saying hello
Posted by: lilws6 - 07-23-2017, 09:22 AM - Forum: Introductions - Replies (2)

Hello all. Just dropping in to introduce my self. Decided i wanted to try out drifting for the first time so i've been slowly building up a Tamiya tt02R that i can use for Vintage trans am racing at my local hobby town and then switch out some wheels and body and go play in a parking lot some where and learn to drift. So far its almost completely setup for VTA with the body and wheels still waiting on tires to be available. So that brings me to the mission of finding a drift body i like and some wheels and tires :) heres some quick pics of it so far ;)
[Image: 36015330965_7950432d3f_c.jpg]DSC_0219 by Don Steuck, on Flickr
[Image: 35256479154_f40f119d6b_c.jpg]Untitled by Don Steuck, on Flickr
[Image: 35705788500_e327538d07_c.jpg]Untitled by Don Steuck, on Flickr

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  Pandora Toyota Sprinter Trueno AE86 Body
Posted by: wilkewhaq - 07-22-2017, 10:15 PM - Forum: News and Announcements - No Replies

Pandora RC products has announced another AE86 Trueno body to their growing line-up. The AE86 Sprinter Trueno is an icon in the drifting world, it is still used in modern D1GP or Formula Drift competitions.


No : PAB-176
JAN code : 4560452081768
Price : 3,800 JPY
Width : 196 mm
1/10 use
Body made by polycarbonate
Decals & masking is attached
Front & rear bumper / anomalous style(Product made in polycarbonate)
Front & rear light parts attachment(Product made in polycarbonate)
Rear wing included attachment(Product made in polycarbonate)
The image of the publication is a painting example.
The sale product becomes the clear body.
The accessories such as a mirror or the windshield wiper are not in the product.
Made in Japan
Approved by Toyota Motor Corporation

Source: Pandora RC

Posted on Sun, 23 Jul 2017 04:12:28 +0000 at

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Posted by: Gramps50 - 07-20-2017, 08:16 PM - Forum: DM Forum - Replies (4)

I am seeing a lot of useless post lately, most do not contribute anything at all or just repeat something that was said. Then in the signature of below the post there are link to casinos and other things that are hidden with black on back writing or something similar. This adds to the new post count but doesn't contribute anything to Driftmission Forums.

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  DRB / DMax Arm Compatibility
Posted by: ChrisB78 - 07-20-2017, 02:49 PM - Forum: General Discussion - No Replies


I am looking at picking up some Yokomo Team Suzuki aluminum rear arms.  The arms that I am looking for are out of stock for DRB but the Team Suzuki arms for DMax are in stock.  They are very similar but not the same in appearance.  Can anyone tell me if the DMax arms are compatible?  Thanks

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  FXX D S IFS Motor Selection - Cement Floor
Posted by: me_as3ad - 07-20-2017, 05:01 AM - Forum: Help Section - Replies (6)

Hi Guys, Need some expert advice here please.

I am building a new MST FXX D S IFS and I need some help please in motor selection.

Shall I go with sensored 13.5 or 10.5T ? Already have 60A sensored brushless ESC 

I have the following options:
1- Hobbywing Quickrun 3650 SD G2 13.5 or 10.5 (
2- Hobbywing Xerun V10 G2 13.5 or 10.5 v10 (
3- Hobbywing Xerun Bandit G2 13.5 or 10.5 (

And any help in any other motor brand will be much appreciated.

My drift level can be considered as Intermediate.

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  Pandora RC Datsun 510 Bluebird Body
Posted by: wilkewhaq - 07-18-2017, 10:15 PM - Forum: News and Announcements - No Replies

Another oldschool release from Pandora RC, The Datsun 510 Bluebird! Officially launched as the Datsun 1600 Bluebird series, this RC body revisits the old days of the Nissan/Datsun line-up. The Pandora RC Datsun 510 Bluebird is a more evolved than the Datsun 1000, but still bears all the important traits of the original car.
The Datsun 510 was known for its high reliability and build quality. Now available in 1:10 scale RC body for around $35-$40 USD, it truly is a blast from the past.


No : PAB-175
JAN code : 4560452081751
Price : 3,800 JPY
Width : 197 mm
1/10 use
The product is non-painting.
Body made by polycarbonate
Decare & masking is attached
Front & Rear mask/bumper (anomalous style parts/made by polycarbonate)
Front & Rear light parts attachment
Front Spoiler attachment
The image of the publication is a painting example.
The sale product becomes the clear body.
The accessories such as a mirror or the windshield wiper are not in the product.
Made in Japan
Nissan Motor Co.,Ltd.trademarks,designs,copyrights and/or other intellectual property rights are used under license.

Source: Pandora RC

Posted on Wed, 19 Jul 2017 04:04:25 +0000 at

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  Acuvance Airia Tao 2 , and a burned smell help!!
Posted by: DRprojex - 07-16-2017, 03:07 AM - Forum: Help Section - Replies (1)

Hi guys, 
I'm new to the forum and I have search the forum but couldn't find anything. Please help me or give me some tips if possible. It's gonna be quite Long so thanks for reading! 

Was using Luxon agile 10.5, tachyon Airia on an re r hybrid chassis (36pinion 70T spur) for two months while tuning the chassis with tao smart card.

Recently bought the brain unit Tao 2, attached it and went to do the ESC initial setup again. Both ESC and Tao 2 version updated. During initial setup, ESC Leds flash meaning sensor wire not connected properly.  Reconnect the sensor wire after a few tries and finally got the Esc setup completed. When I went and check the transmitter settings , I forgot to put the reverse throttle setting back to normal when doing the initial setup. 

Did initial setup again with the throttle setting on transmitter set to normal. Please note that all motor wires or connected thru out so polarity is correct. 

Pull the trigger on the transmitter and the motor spins half a Sec and stops. A click sound and a constant high pitch sound generated from the motor. Went to reverse and it spins!!
Pull the trigger again, not a single movement just the above describe sounds.

Then a strong burned smell from the motor!! FML!! Motor is hot and Esc a little Hot but I can still rest my hands on them. 

My question is

the faulty sensor wire causing the motor to burned overload when trigger pull?

But why I can go into reverse??

Is my ESC gone as well?

Please anybody , help me! Getting a multimeter tomorrow, but seems like motor and sensor wire needs to change. But I was hoping how can I test my Esc to know that it's good ?

Thanks a billion in advanced.

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  Pandora RC Toyota Celica 1600GT Body
Posted by: wilkewhaq - 07-15-2017, 10:53 PM - Forum: News and Announcements - No Replies

Pandora RC has released a new Toyota Celica 1600GT1/10 Scale RC body. This body is the latest from Pandora RC and features everything you need to create your own oldschool Celica. The body comes complete with front/rear bumpers and light buckets made of polycarbonate.
The Pandora RC Toyota Carina will retail for around $40 USD and is currently available at your favorite Pandora RC retailer.

Toyota CELICA 1600GT

No : PAB-174
JAN code : 4560452081744
Price : 3,800 JPY
Width : 198 mm
1/10 use
Body made by polycarbonate
Decals & masking is attached
Front & Rear bumper (Attachment made by polycarbonate)
Front Light & Rear Light parts (Attachment made by polycarbonate)
Front Spoiler (Attachment made by polycarbonate)
The image of the publication is a painting example.
The sale product becomes the clear body.
The accessories such as a mirror or the windshield wiper are not in the product.
Made in Japan
Approved by Toyota Motor Corporation

Sources: Pandora RC

Posted on Sun, 16 Jul 2017 04:43:04 +0000 at

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  Team Tetsujin Toyota JZX100 Mark II Body
Posted by: wilkewhaq - 07-15-2017, 12:19 PM - Forum: News and Announcements - No Replies

This new body from Team Tetsujin has now been released. This is another fantastic looking RC Drift body to come from Team Tetsujin, and is a part of the Tetsujin VOICE Series Collection. The Toyota JZX100 MARK II Voice Series Body is one amazing looking VIP drifter.
This body looks outstanding just like the previously released Tetsujin Toyota Majesta and Tetsujin Toyota Crown. We expect the details to be just as good as before if not better.
Toyota JZX100 MARK2 VOICE Series AERO Ver.

Model: Toyota Mark X Gazoo Racing Aero Style
material : polycarbonate
spec : clear body / 1/10 scale 
wheel base 257-263mm
width 199/Rr / 200mm
Officially Licensed by Toyota
Manufactured by: TEAM-TETSUJIN TT-7706
Includes: Light buckets (lexan), decals, masks, and separate bumpers

Because of production limitation for reproducing details of car we recommend reinforcing inside of body.

Source: Team Tetsujin

Posted on Sat, 15 Jul 2017 17:57:47 +0000 at

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  Pandora RC BN SPORTS Toyota Mark II JZX90
Posted by: wilkewhaq - 07-15-2017, 12:19 PM - Forum: News and Announcements - No Replies

Pandora RC has announced another RC Drifting body, this time the popular BN SPORTS Toyota MARK II JZX90. The JZX90 is a sought after ride in the drift world, now you can recreate this classic body for yourself. This body is of the 7th generation MARK II body, and comes with lexan light buckets and accessories.
The body is already available, and the body replicates the real 1:1 car really well. MSRP is set at around $40 USD.

Toyota MARK 2 JZX90 / BN Sports

No : PAB-173
JAN code : 4560452081737
Price : 4,200 JPY
Width : 198 mm<

1/10 use
Body made by polycarbonate
Decals & masking is attached
Front bumper inner (anomalous style parts/made by polycarbonate)
Front & rear over fender (anomalous style parts/made by polycarbonate)
Front & rear light parts (anomalous style parts/made by polycarbonate)
The image of the publication is a painting example.
The sale product becomes the clear body.
The accessories such as a mirror or the windshield wiper are not in the product.
Made in Japan
Approved by Toyota Motor Corporation

Source: Pandora RC

Posted on Thu, 13 Jul 2017 07:33:51 +0000 at

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  Max Speed Technology RMX 2.0 S RC Drift Chassis
Posted by: wilkewhaq - 07-14-2017, 01:19 PM - Forum: News and Announcements - Replies (1)

The newly revised Max Speed Technology RMX 2.0 S RC Drift Chassis is the successor of the RMX-D VIP. This chassis was meticulously designed to enable easy-control for both experienced and beginners. It features the anti-torque configuration succeeded by the RMX-D VIP design. To increase the acceleration force and lateral drifting stability by the anti-force of the motor running.
The new rear gear box motor mount is available to upper and lower motor installations. Newly fully sealed dust proof gear box and a more rigid structure for better drifting and feeling. The new RMX 2.0 S also comes with a new steering system that offers extreme steering angles and allows for 2 settings of ackermann angles. This MST RMX 2.0 S RC Drift chassis is available now for $175 USD using the link below.
Click here to purchase
MST RMX 2.0 S 1/10 scale RWD Electric Shaft Driven Car KIT [532161]

Successor chassis design like RMX
For the great drifting speed and easy-control angle purpose
New steering system with default great front steering angles
The steering arm has two different Ackermann settings
Two different servo installing methods
Rear shaft driven system
Two different motor position settings
Bevel gear box
6 sets second deceleration ratios
Standard ball differential
Realistic caliper brake set
New upright based on the ATK design
10-steps adjustable upper arm pin holes
Lower inside rods fulcrum and 5 four-sides adjustable holes
Dual vertical upper deck linking with the basin deck and the symmetrical strengthen beams of the deck
Unique basin deck with multiple strengthen beams on two sides
Gyro not included


MST RMX 2.0 S 1/10 2WD Electric Shaft Driven Drift Car Kit (1 pc)
Sticker (1 pc)
Manual (1 pc)


Pinion Gear 48P / 22-27T

Source: Max Speed Technology

Posted on Fri, 14 Jul 2017 18:51:52 +0000 at

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Posted by: Doriftotyme - 07-14-2017, 11:18 AM - Forum: Introductions - Replies (1)

Just threw together an MST rMX 2.0 S. 

Lookin to learn new tips tricks and maybe fab some parts since I mess with composites, and machining. 

From Miami.

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  Top 5 drift rc cars for beginner
Posted by: gemartic - 07-14-2017, 03:47 AM - Forum: Guides - Replies (12)


I would like to know which RTR rc drifting cars would be the best for beginner?

What would be your top 5?

My budget is from 100-1000 dollars or euros. I just want to buy easy to use rc-car drifter that is durable. I would drive the car on asphalt and inside my house.

Thank you in advance!


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  R31House Grk Global RWD
Posted by: KAZ919 - 07-12-2017, 04:05 AM - Forum: Rear Wheel Drive (RWD) - No Replies

I wanna adapt this chassis to run RWD, this is the plan. Right it's still a rolling chassis but I have bought the RWD converstion kit, this RWD specific conversion kit from R31House for their GRK Global drift car... ohhh also the Wrap Up lower/upper arms, Wrap Up knuckle etc etc .... so I've got everything, parts wise. Not sure if anything else is needed but Im thinking nothing major ....... hopefully everything I have, just gotta switch decks and lower/upper arms etc etc   ..... so far this is all I got to go with, it will all come together ....... hopefully.

Here's a few links..

Any advice would be welcomed... I'm pretty sure it go fine but still its the first time I have did this sorta convertion

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  Ford Mustang 2015 Vaughn Gittin' Jr Formula D
Posted by: Woodsnail - 07-12-2017, 12:33 AM - Forum: RC Drift Bodies - Replies (3)

[Image: jegy80bh.jpg]

Pictures in High res:

The car is 200 in the front and 205mm in the back - The chassis is my new MST FMX-Pro and the front is heavily wide so in front there is only
+5mm offset and in the rear are there 10+mm offset with 1mm space and it is still not enough :D

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  Searching for .. help needed
Posted by: KAZ919 - 07-09-2017, 11:44 PM - Forum: General Discussion - Replies (3)

Okay so I'm trying to look for both these parts

Active Hobby Axle Shaft 2pcs For STR187 #STR187-1

Active Hobby Type C narrow aluminum upright 2 Gun Metal For Yokomo Drift Package #STR229GU

I have looked on, and hobbyking .. with no success... now to complete my RWD set up I need these parts, to increse steering lock on my R31 GRK

So it's important I find these parts, cause I got the Wrap Up parts.. but yeah   problem is I'm not sure where to look =L =L  .... seems RCMart has them on their website but has no stock atmand can't say when/if they will be getting these parts in .... so thats why I'm hoping somewhere else has them..  is there anybody on these boars who could point me in the right way, just a little lost atm if you get what I mean..  B)

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  Super-G Formula D Long Beach RWD DRIFT SESH 2
Posted by: CAboy - 07-09-2017, 02:59 PM - Forum: RC Drift Videos - No Replies

It's been a while since I've uploaded, but I hope you guys enjoy!

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  motor selection
Posted by: foxx_005 - 07-08-2017, 09:27 PM - Forum: Help Section - Replies (2)

hi folks

looking for a motor for my 4wd drift chassis. im new to the drift scene,bear in mind that cost is a factor, any suggestions??

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  Window trim after painting
Posted by: Marshy - 07-07-2017, 09:33 AM - Forum: Paint, Decals, and Techniques - Replies (2)

Hello, I recently painted my first drift car. Used Tamiya PS16 which looks as spectacular as I'd imagined. Unfortunately, the Turnigy RX-7 body I bought came with stickers for windows which I proceeded to do a terrible job of placing.  The flat stickers did not place well over the rounded surfaces and bunched up in places.  I want to remove them and start from scratch.

What I'm wondering is, what is the best way to paint the front and rear window trim?

Should I buy some acrylic paint and take my time with a brush? Should I Mask it off really well and hit it with black primer and clear coat?

Or should I just try and find another sticker sheet?

I would also like to redo the tail lights. For this I was thinking paint with brush over body, then mask off and hit it with VHT nightshade. Thoughts?

Thank you for your time.

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Magic8ball New to RC newer to drifting
Posted by: Marshy - 07-07-2017, 09:07 AM - Forum: Introductions - Replies (2)

Hello. I'm finally joining the forums after lurking for some time while contemplating my first drift purchase. I started bashing SC trucks over the winter and decided to get into the world of drift this summer. 

I picked up a Sakura D4 and all of the fun go fast bits. Just finished putting it together yesterday and got to test it out briefly. 

Can't wait to start drifting and appreciate the opportunity to learn from posts on this forum.

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  HPI RS4 SPORT 3 MUSTANG 2015 Drift Build, toughts, suggestion, general chat.
Posted by: Dynos - 07-06-2017, 01:04 PM - Forum: Hot Bodies and HPI - Replies (7)

Hello all! 

my second RC (HPI RS4 SPORT 3 Mustang 2015)
[Image: url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&c...4414986782]

Waiting for it to arrive in mail. i want to do some drifting with it during summer, i also want to have it ready for winter. Suggestions?  
what do people think of it, i found it hard to find much information about builds and people that bought it. so im looking forward to hear from you

This is what i have ordered. ( i was unsure off what to get so i bought diffrent wheels)
HPI 3288 Work XSA 02C Wheel 26mm Chrome/Black (9mm Offset)

MaxPower lipobatteri: 7,4v - 35C - 2S - 4200mah - T plugg
HPI 113717 Spec-Grip Tire 26mm (K Compound/2pcs)
HPI 3592 Work Meister S1 Wheel 26mm Chrome (6mm Offset)
EV-Peak C1-XR 100W 10 Charger 

What do you think? 

this is some option parts, ive been looking at. What do you recommend? 
#114436 - 40T SPOOL SET   to lock the rear diff.  
[b]#114435 - ALUMINUM SHOCK SET (4PCS)


I cant afford much more atm, so what is most important? 

Thanks for feedback!

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  New RC HPI micro 1/10 drift enthusiast
Posted by: Dynos - 07-06-2017, 12:47 PM - Forum: Introductions - No Replies


I got into this hobby a year back. Buying a hpi rs4 micro mustang 69 for some indoor drifting much fun! half the fun is trying to improve the build! 

im trying to get some info on a new car i bought: 

Hpi Rs4 Sport 3 Mustang 2015:D 

Really Hyped for it! i want to upgrade it and make a drift build. i will setup a topic for that. 

Hope to learn alot from you guys. 

Take care

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  My rwd settings guide
Posted by: littlemonsta - 07-06-2017, 01:01 AM - Forum: Help Section - Replies (14)

I just wanted to share my settings and guide how I set it up.

Epoxy/cement surface

Camber angle.
I have always adjusted this based on 45 degree angle turn of trailing(edit) wheel. Camber adjusted to 0 degrees. This is adjusted with battery and body shell.

Rear camber:

I've gone for active camber. It is set to -1 degree. Camber will adjust according to body roll.

Kpi / caster
I run maximum kpi my knuckles allow. Caster is also at maximum allowable. Effects: higher kpi makes car slower but more controllable in corners. If car is too slow during a corner reduce kpi settings. Caster is the cars rolling ability.

Toe settings / ride height spring settings

My front ride height changes according to acceleration and deceleration. Nuetral to slight Toe in during acceleration and toe out during braking and low speeds.

Ride height is adjusted with body shell and battery. 5mm at lowest height in front and back. Springs are 31 mm springs. Due to my setup my springs are softer in front and harder in the rear. This is to accommodate the heavier rear.

Damper settings.
My damper location is the closest hole to the chassis in front. Rear damper location is also closest to chassis. However I do not use standard holes that come with the lower arms in the rear. My dampers sit almost upright.

Effects: I chose this because I wanted more shift from side to side. Chassis continues to be angled during a corner. I've got test this again in more detail. However I feel this help the car to come out faster of a corner. This setting may cause the car to have less reaction

Damper oil.
For many months I was using mixture of oils. I was running an average of 50cst to 100 cst.
This makes the car actually looser. Depending on the surface of the track whether it's bumpy or not will determine what oil to use.

On uneven epoxy, I use 300 -400 CST oil. I find that it helps to grip more. If you don't want so much grip or on a smoother surface you can reduce the thickness of the oil.

I run at 6.9 FDR.

Effects : I run at this due to the lower wheel spin. It takes a longer time to hit top speed, your acceleration is lower. Lower acceleration is more controllable wheel spin. Less wheel spin is a faster car.

Also the other reason I can run the car for 2 hours without battery change which is great.

Radio EPA/ dual rate
I run my EPA anywhere from 55℅ th to 85℅ depending of the factors of cars around me. Faster cars I use a lower EPA setting and slower cars a higher EPA setting.

Dual rate, I cap the max throttle at 90℅. The car cannot go more then 90℅. So my actual car speed is lower with EPA and dual rate combination.

Curve settings.
None. Mine is linear.

Will update more later. I will post pics later of what I mean.

Sent from my Lenovo P1a42 using Tapatalk

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  What do I need (electronics)
Posted by: niceast - 07-05-2017, 01:19 PM - Forum: General Discussion - Replies (3)

If I bought a frame kit.

What electronics do I need?

Motor? Battery, charger, controller? Anything else.

Also I new to this rc stuff, any recommendations?

Couldn't find any sticky that had this information.

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  Have You Used Gens ace 5000mah 29# Lipo for You Drift Cars?
Posted by: Mayme - 07-04-2017, 02:15 AM - Forum: Electronics - Replies (14)

Hi,guys, I wanna use use this lipo for my TLR 22-4, someone recommend it , and it 50% off now, I wanna use for my thing. But any guys use it ?

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Image Eagle Racing M06 custom
Posted by: DDJ - 07-03-2017, 09:40 AM - Forum: Rear Wheel Drive (RWD) - Replies (15)

I've started a project converting my Eagle R31-16fm into a rear-motor M chassis.....just because  Lol

At first, I was calling this a M31-16RM, but I figured I might as well call it an M06 custom.

First off, the R31-16fm is a front motor chassis, which isn't really that ideal for RWD drifting since there ends up being less weight over the rear wheels causing the chassis to struggle to get up to speed and drift with others, unless you put grippier rear tires.....and front motor chassis are more suited for CS drifting (from my experience). I also want more variety during drift sessions so drifting an M-chassis would at least provide that.

Now, Tamiya's M-chassis in particular have adjustable wheelbases since they make bodies of different wheelbases (210, 225 and 239mm). I will also make the wheelbase adjustable. It will pretty much be a 2-piece chassis where the upper and lower decks overlap and mount using hardware. This way it will maintain rigidity. The front half will mount below the rear half to prevent snagging on track curbs and debris. And making it rear motor putting all the drivetrain in the rear makes this possible since there's no long any drivetrain parts that span the length of the chassis.

Ok, enough babbling. Here's some pics.

Comparing the chassis to a Tamiya MX-5 body to get an idea of how much I need to shrink the chassis.
[Image: 2f0g7id.jpg]

[Image: 34xgmkm.jpg]

Checking clearance with motor assembly. Clears the spur gear and the rest just fine.
[Image: e01k3s.jpg]

[Image: dzfif4.jpg]

Here's a pic of the motor assembly separate. I'm using the stock 18t center pulley with a TA05 36t diff pulley, and the belt is a 50t with a tensioner. 
[Image: 2ds048x.jpg]

I thought I was gonna have to custom fab my own lower control arms, but after digging around my spare parts and looking at parts online, I discovered I can use some existing parts and modify them. The rear arms are Tamiya TA04/05 front arms. I plan on using Sakura D4 front arms for the fronts.
[Image: 334jlav.jpg]

The C-hub area is where I can mount a rear upright. There was already a tiny hole right where I needed it to be to insert the pin so I used it to drill out. 
[Image: 2u9mxhi.jpg]
Shaved the rest of the arm for clearance for upright.
[Image: 29axlix.jpg]
Test fitted the Eagle upright. Will be using Tamiya 2 degree uprights.
[Image: b3va76.jpg]
Assembled on chassis.
[Image: ic1rah.jpg]

[Image: 29uvzt0.jpg]
I just so happened to have 30mm cvds in my parts bin (lucky). I know the diff cups are damaged. Might grind them out so I can use cushions.

I'm using the stock deck just for mock-up. I will be making a custom adjustable deck. And if you're wondering about the O-rings for the turnbuckles, they're simply there just to reduce wiggling since they do move quite a bit.

Both arms done and mounted.
[Image: 24ffgwy.jpg]
Test fitting body. 
[Image: jhsfa0.jpg]

[Image: vremox.jpg]

[Image: x1zk7d.jpg]

Nice and flush. I actually lucked out on the arm length. Those are HPI Cup Racer MX60 6mm wheels.
[Image: 16jn7tw.jpg]

[Image: 6r36tj.jpg]
In short, this proves that it's very doable to reverse this chassis into a rear-motor layout. I'm just taking it further with doing an M conversion.

More updates to come  =)

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  Gyro choice
Posted by: Drift12345678 - 06-27-2017, 02:24 PM - Forum: Guides - Replies (7)

hi everyone I'm am looking for a gyro for my rwd d4. I do not know what one to get. If anyone has experience with gyros or can help it would be appreciated.

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  Spinning out
Posted by: Drift12345678 - 06-25-2017, 04:54 PM - Forum: Help Section - Replies (9)

hello everyone so after building my d4 rwd it keeps spinning out. I am running it on very smooth concrete. I am using the stock tires,-4 front camber,-1 in the back, 8 mm in the front hiegt and 6 mm in the back. That is my current setup.

Do you suggest a different setup?
Should I get a gyro?
 Thanks for help and viewing

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  Langey? Vancouver ? Canada?
Posted by: BCTT02 - 06-25-2017, 12:14 PM - Forum: North America - No Replies

Hey All, looking for a few sliders out my way locally... Afros is a little to far out for me and I have a few really sweet spots that i hit nightly, would love to find a few dudes to come along . Let me know if you are in Vancouver , or the Langley abbotsford area and would like to connect. 


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  Hey all!
Posted by: BCTT02 - 06-25-2017, 12:10 PM - Forum: Introductions - No Replies

Hello From Langley BC , Canada! Looking for a group of guys to Drift with! Huge Tamiya fan, I run a tt02 C/S and touring as well as RWD m06 drifitng and touring. Hit me up if you're local and wanting to come out and shred some tires!

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