3 Racing Sakura D3 CS Drift
3 Racing Sakura D3 CS Drift
10-31-2012, 09:02 PM
The 3 Racing Sakura D3 CS Drift front motor drift chassis has been officially announced. Look for it to be released at the end of August 2012. Breadcrumbs have already begun to make an appearance on the official 3 Racing store. This marks the 3rd full front motor RC drift chassis to hit the market and is expected to be the cheapest of the bunch. The 3 Racing Sakura series chassis are popular among budget minded enthusiasts. The chassis will come with 45 degree steering angle out of the box, and with the option parts will be capable of 53 degrees. It appears to have the integration of the Sakura FF and the Sakura XI, these pictures are of the official version. The chassis will retail for approximately $128.57USD to $135.06USD.
3Racing will have approximately 67 spare and option parts available for this chassis. To keep it stock or to fully “bling†it out with Pink Anodized Aluminum, the choice is yours. This looks to be a very promising chassis, especially at the very economical price range. The current Driftmission.com pole shows that this is the most anticipated upcoming chassis, please vote and let us know what you think!
![[Image: 3Racing-Sakura-D3-CS-Drift-Chassis-DriftMission-10.jpg]](http://driftmission.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/3Racing-Sakura-D3-CS-Drift-Chassis-DriftMission-10.jpg)
Full Posting of 3Racing Sakura D3 CS Sport
The 3 Racing Sakura D3 CS Drift front motor drift chassis has been officially announced. Look for it to be released at the end of August 2012. Breadcrumbs have already begun to make an appearance on the official 3 Racing store. This marks the 3rd full front motor RC drift chassis to hit the market and is expected to be the cheapest of the bunch. The 3 Racing Sakura series chassis are popular among budget minded enthusiasts. The chassis will come with 45 degree steering angle out of the box, and with the option parts will be capable of 53 degrees. It appears to have the integration of the Sakura FF and the Sakura XI, these pictures are of the official version. The chassis will retail for approximately $128.57USD to $135.06USD.
3Racing will have approximately 67 spare and option parts available for this chassis. To keep it stock or to fully “bling†it out with Pink Anodized Aluminum, the choice is yours. This looks to be a very promising chassis, especially at the very economical price range. The current Driftmission.com pole shows that this is the most anticipated upcoming chassis, please vote and let us know what you think!
11-04-2012, 06:51 AM
I do not have this chassis but have seen it up close and made a video of it drifting. I must say as the guy had it fully stock I was pretty impressed with it running with other high end chassis. Add a front one way from the Sakura Zero and your pretty much good to go from what I hear.
11-06-2012, 03:18 AM
(11-06-2012, 02:52 AM)Dorvack Don'y get me wrong, it's a nice chassis and has some very clever design features, but during my build I alternated between "This chassis is fantastic for the price!" and "Ahh, that's why it's so cheap..." too many times to count.
A prime example is the shocks; nice alloy, crap e-clips, good ball-ends, horrible pistons, etc.
However, from all of the reports I've read, it drifts very well.
Dorvack.
I strongly agree with his statement. There was tons of mixed reactions when I was tuning this chassis for a friend of mine. New turn knuckles are a must for this chassis. I ended up having to use pliers to turn those crappy things.
I can't wait for the Front One-way to arrive. It's just what the chassis needs. Running two solid spools just wasn't our style.
This post was last modified: 11-06-2012, 03:22 AM by aznpulse.
Team Ghost Drift
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(11-06-2012, 02:52 AM)Dorvack Don'y get me wrong, it's a nice chassis and has some very clever design features, but during my build I alternated between "This chassis is fantastic for the price!" and "Ahh, that's why it's so cheap..." too many times to count.
A prime example is the shocks; nice alloy, crap e-clips, good ball-ends, horrible pistons, etc.
However, from all of the reports I've read, it drifts very well.
Dorvack.
I strongly agree with his statement. There was tons of mixed reactions when I was tuning this chassis for a friend of mine. New turn knuckles are a must for this chassis. I ended up having to use pliers to turn those crappy things.
I can't wait for the Front One-way to arrive. It's just what the chassis needs. Running two solid spools just wasn't our style.
Team Ghost Drift
MST FXX-D VIP|MST FXX-D S|MST XXX-D S HT
11-06-2012, 03:25 AM
(11-06-2012, 02:52 AM)Dorvack Don'y get me wrong, it's a nice chassis and has some very clever design features, but during my build I alternated between "This chassis is fantastic for the price!" and "Ahh, that's why it's so cheap..." too many times to count.
A prime example is the shocks; nice alloy, crap e-clips, good ball-ends, horrible pistons, etc.
However, from all of the reports I've read, it drifts very well.
Dorvack.
lol how many top end kits are set up for CS out of the box? You usually have to buy option parts and hop ups etc to get your chassis up to a level that you're happy with anyway. Yes it's cheap and they don't assemble the CVD's correctly, but it's a good place to start. It drifts like a top end chassis, better than a stock yokomo drift package (cause they're 50/50 lol). I am going to purchase different shocks and option parts for this chassis as they are released. If you want to get into CS drifting with very limited funds this is the way to go!
when you say you had to cut the bumper to fit? did you mean into the mount? or to fit under your shell? I had to cut mine to fit the shell! but the part fit the kit fine!
(11-06-2012, 03:18 AM)aznpulse I strongly agree with his statement. There was tons of mixed reactions when I was tuning this chassis for a friend of mine. New turn knuckles are a must for this chassis. I ended up having to use pliers to turn those crappy things.
I can't wait for the Front One-way to arrive. It's just what the chassis needs. Running two solid spools just wasn't our style.
are you talking about steering knuckles? or turnbuckles? they are pretty tight you need to thread them first with some light oil!
the front one ways are available check rcMart.com also sakura zero one ways use the same tube anyway I have both and there is no difference just leave the zero's spacer out. the stock CVD's give heaps of chatter at full lock just get a set of SSK's or tamiya double cardins and that solves the issue
This post was last modified: 11-06-2012, 05:10 AM by pickled.
(11-06-2012, 02:52 AM)Dorvack Don'y get me wrong, it's a nice chassis and has some very clever design features, but during my build I alternated between "This chassis is fantastic for the price!" and "Ahh, that's why it's so cheap..." too many times to count.
A prime example is the shocks; nice alloy, crap e-clips, good ball-ends, horrible pistons, etc.
However, from all of the reports I've read, it drifts very well.
Dorvack.
lol how many top end kits are set up for CS out of the box? You usually have to buy option parts and hop ups etc to get your chassis up to a level that you're happy with anyway. Yes it's cheap and they don't assemble the CVD's correctly, but it's a good place to start. It drifts like a top end chassis, better than a stock yokomo drift package (cause they're 50/50 lol). I am going to purchase different shocks and option parts for this chassis as they are released. If you want to get into CS drifting with very limited funds this is the way to go!
when you say you had to cut the bumper to fit? did you mean into the mount? or to fit under your shell? I had to cut mine to fit the shell! but the part fit the kit fine!
(11-06-2012, 03:18 AM)aznpulse I strongly agree with his statement. There was tons of mixed reactions when I was tuning this chassis for a friend of mine. New turn knuckles are a must for this chassis. I ended up having to use pliers to turn those crappy things.
I can't wait for the Front One-way to arrive. It's just what the chassis needs. Running two solid spools just wasn't our style.
are you talking about steering knuckles? or turnbuckles? they are pretty tight you need to thread them first with some light oil!
the front one ways are available check rcMart.com also sakura zero one ways use the same tube anyway I have both and there is no difference just leave the zero's spacer out. the stock CVD's give heaps of chatter at full lock just get a set of SSK's or tamiya double cardins and that solves the issue
11-06-2012, 07:57 AM
(11-06-2012, 07:42 AM)Dorvack I didn't replace the shocks on mine, but I did replace the shock spacers, pistons, lower e-clips and shock bodies. I also built the shocks (very) carefully, with green slime around the o-rings and shock ends to cut down on the possibility of leaks... But they will happen I'm sure.
The manual recommends cutting a few millimeters off the back of the bumper to get it to fit, which I dutifully did, but whatever material they're using for the bumper made it difficult to bevel the underside for clearance as I normally would.
Again, I'm not knocking the car, but now that I've upgraded the pullies, added titanium gearbox shafts and an alloy rear bulkhead bearing housing, as well as an alloy belt tensioner, the price is starting to get up there.
I've just ordered some more parts to try the C-hub delete mod for it, and will post pictures if that works...
Dorvack.
yes I know the prices start to accrue and if we buy all the options in the end we will end up with a top end chassis. So it will cost us a bit in the end. I have had the lower shock o-ring retainer come loose spilling the oil. I haven't built mine as slowly as you I just service them every couple of weeks. Sorry if I got a bit defensive I've had my fair share of drama's with this chassis too, but I've overcome or modded my way out of it. I'm not going to add all the option parts to this chassis I'm going to wait till the carbon is released then build a complete other car with the parts. I just ordered a set of alloy pulleys and deleting the C hubs are you using the yokomo caster blocks?
![[Image: img20121018195358.jpg]](http://imageshack.us/a/img233/861/img20121018195358.jpg)
![[Image: img20121018195429.jpg]](http://imageshack.us/a/img836/276/img20121018195429.jpg)
this is the belt tension mod I came up with for this chassis
![[Image: img20121021125828.jpg]](http://imageshack.us/a/img233/5966/img20121021125828.jpg)
what to do to the axle pins in the CVD's to stop them coming apart
This post was last modified: 11-06-2012, 08:08 AM by pickled.
(11-06-2012, 07:42 AM)Dorvack I didn't replace the shocks on mine, but I did replace the shock spacers, pistons, lower e-clips and shock bodies. I also built the shocks (very) carefully, with green slime around the o-rings and shock ends to cut down on the possibility of leaks... But they will happen I'm sure.
The manual recommends cutting a few millimeters off the back of the bumper to get it to fit, which I dutifully did, but whatever material they're using for the bumper made it difficult to bevel the underside for clearance as I normally would.
Again, I'm not knocking the car, but now that I've upgraded the pullies, added titanium gearbox shafts and an alloy rear bulkhead bearing housing, as well as an alloy belt tensioner, the price is starting to get up there.
I've just ordered some more parts to try the C-hub delete mod for it, and will post pictures if that works...
Dorvack.
yes I know the prices start to accrue and if we buy all the options in the end we will end up with a top end chassis. So it will cost us a bit in the end. I have had the lower shock o-ring retainer come loose spilling the oil. I haven't built mine as slowly as you I just service them every couple of weeks. Sorry if I got a bit defensive I've had my fair share of drama's with this chassis too, but I've overcome or modded my way out of it. I'm not going to add all the option parts to this chassis I'm going to wait till the carbon is released then build a complete other car with the parts. I just ordered a set of alloy pulleys and deleting the C hubs are you using the yokomo caster blocks?
this is the belt tension mod I came up with for this chassis
what to do to the axle pins in the CVD's to stop them coming apart
11-06-2012, 04:10 PM
(11-06-2012, 03:57 PM)Dorvack Nope, probably just cut-down D3 C-hubs.
Dorvack.
I'd be interested in seeing how that's done.
This post was last modified: 11-06-2012, 04:19 PM by aznpulse.
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