ofna JL10e drifter

ok folks like i said in other post couldnt pass up this deal. I have my shafty that i love but wanted a belt drive system checking the other side of the track per-say and this was rite price and the rite kind of challenge i want to feed my addiction and get me more into modding and and less into buying simple fit hopup. So in this discussion i wish to pick the brains of my fellow sideways freeks for input on what to try and mite and mite not work.
    and here is link to what the chassis comes withhttp://ofna.com/jl10e-drift.php
don't have a count on the pulleys it runs nor can i find any info as to what it runs for any of the gearing from stock I do know the the pulleys are stock they both just messed with spur and pinion. he was running a 12t brushless tekin with 90t spur 44t pinion 64pitch. the center pulleys are 15t and both front and back drive pulleys are 36t count.
any suggestions on a set up more suited for drifting cs or 50/50 or both pls help. the gearing in car now it is like a bullet. want to bring it down a few notchs in the speed department.
next ? is how do i get more angle out of my steering the way the servo is set up. i can bring my tierods closer to the center that way but my servo doesn't seem to have enuf throw from side to side. would making the servo arm longer help with that at all?
And since this car has adjustable track width is it good to leave the wider width front and shorter width in the rear as the former owner has it set up? he was also running a couple degrees toe in on the rear is this a good idea?
would also like some insight on what size motor would run this system comfortably with out giving me temp problems. my poor tamy torqer got pretty warm driving this donut queen.
the only way i could get this chassis to drift(donuts) is e-brake and that was with foamies on the steering and abs on the rear. with abs all around it wouldn't even move it would sit there and spin. this setup must of been great on carpet b/c it sure isn't on linolium or cement.
so anyways enuf questions for now am off to do some tear down and parts research(pic matching) for parts idea's
fell free to pitch in and shoot me in the rite direction and feel free to shoot me some modding idea's to try am open to anything to help me make this chassis something unique and driftable.
p.s hope i posted this in rite section. will move over to do a build thread on this once i have better direction and an accumulation of parts.

[robb41488]

you can bring it down by going up alot in gearing. i would try 120 and 60

[Piper]

Using a larger servo horn will give more throw, its a good idea if your in need of some. As for mods, you might want to figure out a way of changing the top suspension arms into adjustable turnbuckle style. Would make adjusting camber a lot easier. To get more steering angle and lose a bit of ackerman you could try drilling new holes in the hub carriers, closer to the axle / hub itself. The differentials, I'm not sure if they are stock but your gonna want to lock the rear diff, it looks to be limited slip. If you can't mod or find a fow to fit you might wanna lock the front diff as well. It looks as if the Pulleys are held on by C-clips in the center, in that case you can get grub screw style pulleys and grind flat spots on the shaft they sit on for the grub screws to bite, Once you change pulley sizes you will need new belts. Team-Tetsunjin sells custom sized belts as well. What tires came equipped on the car? this might be your problem on concrete. As for your motor, if you gear the car properly you should have no problems with the motor getting hot, personally I'd pick up a sensored brushless setup for it, but thats because I own mutliples and wouldn't go back to a brushed motor.

thanks piper. yeah taking the tires off to adjust the front camber is a pain in the butt and it is good idea to modd a turnbuckle in the place of the upper arms.     Is the pulley shaft diameter on all belt driven chassis the same or are the shafts all different diameters? punching in the current #'s in the cs calc i come up with a fdr of 2.05 and putting in the #'s robb suggested my fdr becomes 2. is that not way to fast? what would be a good base fdr to shoot for? cs ratio?
I did find a solid diff for the back and a fow amungst the only parts page i could find for this chassis. so those will be on order here in the next couple weeks.
I have to be careful with my steering angle b/c this chassis is still running strait dogbone shafts on all 4's. can't find cvd's for the drifter specifically but can find them for the JL10e itself so these should fit straight across i am hoping.
I was looking at re-adjusting the holes closer to the axial when i noticed that the rite side has three holes and the left has 2 holes in the steering hub. what has me wondering is why the previous owner has the rite tierod attached to the closest hole to axial and the outside hole on the left. could someone explain why this mite be? just looking at the current setup and angle it looks like this way is to create more angle rite then left. ackerman maybe?
yes both diffs are limited slip. the front diff is running very heavy grease and in the rear diff has very lite gear oil.
the car has only seen carpet in its life time never run on anything but. the car had foam tires front and back when i bought it. i put 4 abs tires on it and it wouldnt move not even swing the back end it would sit there and spin in 1 spot like someone was holding it in that spot. so i an thinking the body needs some weight added or/and much slower FDR or a slightly softer dift tire.

[robb41488]

actually i just calculated it out using the stock trans ratio of 2.5 and your fdr at 120/44 is 6.82, 120/60 is 5.0. with this i would try to go with the 120/44 since you already have the 44

[Chiefy707]

Suspension tuning on a horizontal PBS type suspension is very easy.  Maybe easier than the usual electric TC type suspensions.  Caster is adjusted by placing spacers on the upper arm inner hinge pin. Camber is adjusted by turning the upper pillow ball.  Track is adjusted by turning both pillow balls.  Its a very strong design which is why all serious on road nitro racing cars use it.

Its problems lie in unsprung weight and pillow ball travel.  The control arm can be made to allow a wide range of movement for the pillow ball but at the expense of durability.

[Piper]

Depending on your skills at counter steer, I'd start around 50%, if you have practice I find its more or less finding the sweet spot for that %. It sounds like you have the right idea getting a Fow , Cvd's and increasing steering angle these are all essential for drifting cs in my opinion. If you can measure the shaft the pulleys sit on there is different sizes but usually doesn't differ to much in this scale (1/10). Digital calipers make quick work of uncertainty. I find for me especially as I was learning to drift cs, that around 6.80 - 7.20 fdr works well for me. Gave my radio less of and on off feeling when it came to hitting the throttle. As for tires if your drifting on smooth concrete try out a set of Hpi T-drifts or the R2 equivalent.

well i tore down the center drive and found out it is a 5mm shaft using the trusty digital cal's...hehe yep piper never leave home with out them. will any pulley with a 5mm center and grub screw be ok to try or is something like that still finiky? and could someone give me the easiest way to measure a belt that doesn't have a label on it. i used to just take the old v-belt off my ole truck run to the hardware store match it up to new one and go  so so easy here....haha
as robb was doing i decided to try my hand at the calculator so i threw in the 120 spur and the 44 pinion and threw in the factory pulley #'s; keeping the front stock 35/15 and going with a 20 center and 30 rear bringing me to a 1.56 cs ratio/56% and a fdr of 4.24. does that sound like the best way to achieve my ratio of close to 50%.  
thanks chiefy for the info on the suspension was looking at the potential issues with that setup haven't tore it down seriously enuf to get into my system but it feels very smooth through the transition from top to bottom no visible slop. i do see the durability issue coming into play alot if ya slam rear axial off foreign objects to much.  
And i decided; for the motor i think i am going to go sensored brushless and run the teken redline race pro 17.5 turn motor and run the matching esc. also been looking at a lapord sensorless bl system sory if i spelt that wrong.
well thanks folks you been a great help and insite into this addiction we all share. keep the info flowing wether it be about this chassis or any part piece or hop-up that mite be crazy enuf to work.

you can measure the belt with a  piece of string and then a tape

"with a 20 center and 30 rear bringing me to a 1.56 cs ratio/56% and a fdr of 4.24. does that sound like the best way to achieve my ratio of close to 50%.  "
Hey, from where you got these pulleys?
Thanks and best regards,