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Genki's Overdose Type-C
That's a close call, luckily things didn't turn out bad and made noticeable scratches and such. Had something similar happen to me and scratch the lower carbon deck. Good thing you didn't end up using those overdose turnbuckles or that would have been more painful breaking them.
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Overdose Drift Package RWD
CER D08 Premium RWD
Yokomo DRB Overdose RWD
Ce-RX type R White Wolf RWD
Thats strange man seeing you didn't take any big hits,titanium is known to be brittle compared to steel i don't think it bends much and just snaps.
that depends on the titanium too, if its really hi grade stuff it should be able to flex like this titanium arm for example
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(04-10-2014, 10:34 AM)GenkiRF Wrote:  Was running some tandems last night with my buddy Curt, and as soon as we started getting closer and closer my night came to an abrupt end.
I ran around a hairpin and noticed my wheels didn't look right LOL!

The culprit was a broken TITANIUM turnbuckle that snapped off inside of my upper arm. I never would have figured these would snap on me LOL.
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I was running a new body with minimal clearance for the wheels, so there's a good chance my wheels binded with the body during a collision causing the turnbuckle to give way. I can't think of anything else since I didn't have any hard hits on the night. A few tandem related spins and taps, nothing out of the norm.
With an all aluminum setup though, something has to give when push comes to shove. In my case it ended up being a titanium turnbuckle.
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Maybe this will get me motivated to get my FR-D up and running ASAP now as well haha ^^;;
Did the same thing only with the Aluminum OD ones :/

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P.S. Beautiful chassis brother
Yokomo Doripake RWD

I can see how the turn buckle would take more load on a type C setup as they don't have the strength a C hub in a regular lower arm has. Looks like steel turnbuckles are the better option or this setup.
Thanks Moletron, that was one of the reasons I was so reluctant to run the aluminum Turnbuckles - I knew they would either bend or break on my setup.
I think Hayashi is right, the best option on a full aluminum Type-C setup, would be to run steel turnbuckles.

Unfortunately I hacked up my front Active Hobby CVD's to run on the rear of my FR-D thanks to an idea Anthony (antinnous) came up with, so my Type-C won't be back up as soon as I thought it would be. Also, because of the parts I stole from the Type-C for my FR-D, I decided to just convert the Type-C to RWD as well... I'm just having way too much fun with RWD right now not to haha. I've caught the bug!

Yokomo Type-C - RWD
Wrap-Up Next FR-D - RWD
Since the front upper arm tie rod broke, I have sold the Keyence ESC + Motor combo, and it's basically sat in this sorry ass state for a month or so. I basically decided to convert it to RWD since I robbed it of a few parts for my FR-D. That, and I just don't think I can go back to CS after running RWD. I've been spoiled by it.
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Converting To RWD
For my RWD conversion, I wanted to do a small makeover on the car, and take it in a bit of a different direction. There were 2 main factors that decided how I would convert the chassis to RWD.

1. I wanted to run a slide rack. I had been debating for a few weeks weather or not to retrofit the GRK steering assembly to my Overdose Drift Package while I was still running CS before it broke down.

2. I have always wanted a R31 House GRK2+, and even contemplated buying one and converting it to RWD.

With the recent release of the ROXX GRK Drift Package conversion by R31 House though, I am basically able to have - in my opinion - the best of both worlds now. I contacted Tetsujin, and got my hands on a kit. I had to wait a couple weeks before they could ship it though, because of the delayed release on the OD servo mounts that I had also pre-ordered. Not a big deal. A few days after they shipped it, the parcel arrived :twisted:
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I ended up buying the complete conversion kit, including the slide rack steering system from the GRK2+, as well as the full size lipo battery mount. This will set you back roughly 24,300 JYP - $243 USD.
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The main differences between this main chassis and the RC926 chassis seem to be the motor cutout, and the exclusion of droop tabs. They are both 2.6mm thick.
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I started out by building the battery holder. It's a pretty simple - straightforward design.
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My 5600 Eagle Racing LiPo fit with room to spare.
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Not that it's a big deal, but the Dark Blue for the GRK conversion doesn't actually match Yokomo blue, it's quite a bit darker.
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After I was done that, I completely dismantled the RC926 conversion.
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You can never get tired of how easy drift packages are to work on. Everything is removable in large chunks haha.
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Similar to the RC926 chassis, the GRK conversion has cutouts for the bulkheads to drop down and sit completely flush with the chassis. Many drift package owners will know that there are little ribs on the bottom of the gear cases, this is one thing that the FR-D conversions did not account for.
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After the gear cases were installed, I installed the rear chassis brace stand offs and rear chassis braces.
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I cleaned out all the grease from my previous 2.0 FCD gear set. I have actually yet to buy a stock gear set for the car... oops!
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Waiting on it's new drivetrain... maybe I'll order it next week.
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Next I went to install the motor mount. The batter holder has mounting options to move the battery further inward, or outward, and I opted to move it inward. This in turn created some clearance issues with my motor mount. I ended up shaving off a bit of the rear battery holder in order to clear my motor mount.
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Fit like a glove.
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I added 4mm? of spacers under where the chassis center brace would normally be to level it off.
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Since I'm still missing some miscellaneous parts for my rebuild that won't arrive until Monday, I left it at that as far as the rear end goes for today.
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Moving onto the front, all I really did was clean out, and install the front gear case.
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I'm undecided of how much weight I think I should run inside of it. I think I'll just run it as is before any weight touches this chassis.
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After that, I re-installed the front shock towers and called it a day. I can't do much until the miscellaneous parts on Monday arrive.
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Lookin forward to finishing off the chassis portion of this build Monday ^^)b
Hopefully I can put in an order for a Gyro, and gear set in the next week or two, and get this thing up and running as soon as I can.

Yokomo Type-C - RWD
Wrap-Up Next FR-D - RWD
interesting direction.

Wasn't the OD slide released at this stage?
Yea, I'll be losing some of the blue bling this route, but it should still turn out great.
I've always wanted a GRK chassis, so I figured I'd combine the two. Hopefully I'll stop thinking about buying a GRK2+ Kai chassis now lol...
As for the OD slide rack, I gave it some thought, but figured I'd just go this route instead. The OD Slide rack won't be released for at least another month or so, and will retail for around $150.

Yokomo Type-C - RWD
Wrap-Up Next FR-D - RWD
ill give you my GRK for this! haha
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