https://forum.driftmission.com/ Thu, 05 Nov 2026 13:53:18 +0000 MyBB https://forum.driftmission.com/showthread.php?tid=11734 Thu, 06 Jul 2017 19:04:05 +0000 Dynos]]> https://forum.driftmission.com/showthread.php?tid=11734
my second RC (HPI RS4 SPORT 3 Mustang 2015)


Waiting for it to arrive in mail. i want to do some drifting with it during summer, i also want to have it ready for winter. Suggestions?  
what do people think of it, i found it hard to find much information about builds and people that bought it. so im looking forward to hear from you


This is what i have ordered. ( i was unsure off what to get so i bought diffrent wheels)
HPI 4790 X PATTERN RADIAL TIRE 26mm D COMPOUND
HPI 3288 Work XSA 02C Wheel 26mm Chrome/Black (9mm Offset)
HPI 4427 LP29 T-DRIFT TIRE YOKOHAMA ADVAN NEOVA AD07 (2pcs)
MaxPower lipobatteri: 7,4v - 35C - 2S - 4200mah - T plugg
HPI 113717 Spec-Grip Tire 26mm (K Compound/2pcs)
HPI RS4 SPORT 3 2015 FORD MUSTANG RTR SPEC 5
HPI 3592 Work Meister S1 Wheel 26mm Chrome (6mm Offset)
EV-Peak C1-XR 100W 10 Charger 

What do you think? 

this is some option parts, ive been looking at. What do you recommend? 
#114436 - 40T SPOOL SET   to lock the rear diff.  
#114437 - UNIVERSAL DRIVE SHAFT SET  
[b]#114435 - ALUMINUM SHOCK SET (4PCS)
#114432 - CENTER DRIVE SHAFT COVER SET
[/b]#114433 - SHOCK TOWER (FRONT/CARBON
#114434 - SHOCK TOWER (REAR/CARBON 

I cant afford much more atm, so what is most important? 

Thanks for feedback!]]>
my second RC (HPI RS4 SPORT 3 Mustang 2015)


Waiting for it to arrive in mail. i want to do some drifting with it during summer, i also want to have it ready for winter. Suggestions?  
what do people think of it, i found it hard to find much information about builds and people that bought it. so im looking forward to hear from you


This is what i have ordered. ( i was unsure off what to get so i bought diffrent wheels)
HPI 4790 X PATTERN RADIAL TIRE 26mm D COMPOUND
HPI 3288 Work XSA 02C Wheel 26mm Chrome/Black (9mm Offset)
HPI 4427 LP29 T-DRIFT TIRE YOKOHAMA ADVAN NEOVA AD07 (2pcs)
MaxPower lipobatteri: 7,4v - 35C - 2S - 4200mah - T plugg
HPI 113717 Spec-Grip Tire 26mm (K Compound/2pcs)
HPI RS4 SPORT 3 2015 FORD MUSTANG RTR SPEC 5
HPI 3592 Work Meister S1 Wheel 26mm Chrome (6mm Offset)
EV-Peak C1-XR 100W 10 Charger 

What do you think? 

this is some option parts, ive been looking at. What do you recommend? 
#114436 - 40T SPOOL SET   to lock the rear diff.  
#114437 - UNIVERSAL DRIVE SHAFT SET  
[b]#114435 - ALUMINUM SHOCK SET (4PCS)
#114432 - CENTER DRIVE SHAFT COVER SET
[/b]#114433 - SHOCK TOWER (FRONT/CARBON
#114434 - SHOCK TOWER (REAR/CARBON 

I cant afford much more atm, so what is most important? 

Thanks for feedback!]]> https://forum.driftmission.com/showthread.php?tid=11483 Thu, 02 Feb 2017 18:00:14 +0000 gcarrell2]]> https://forum.driftmission.com/showthread.php?tid=11483 *I have to note that the 2wd I was setting up was not my kit, but a kit a friend let me borrow. I might give the Yeah Racing kit another shot on my ride.]]> *I have to note that the 2wd I was setting up was not my kit, but a kit a friend let me borrow. I might give the Yeah Racing kit another shot on my ride.]]> https://forum.driftmission.com/showthread.php?tid=11462 Tue, 24 Jan 2017 23:04:11 +0000 Gramps50]]> https://forum.driftmission.com/showthread.php?tid=11462 Rear diff locked
Front diff one way
90+ grams of weight on the front bumper

Day one I drove (tried to drift it) the way it was setup. I am new to drifting so I really don't have a clue as to what I am doing other than what I have read on the different forums and watching Youtube videos. Seemed to drive alright but what do I know. So that night I decided to try it with out the one way diff so I put the stock open diff in the front.

Day two tried drifting with the new setup it was almost right starting over but after a few minutes I felt I was back to where I left off the afternoon before. After about 15 minutes I felt I had made a little progress and was able to make a few more complete circles. Starting I am just trying to drift around a cone. When I get this down I will progress to 2 cones and a figure 8. I practice the cone circle both clockwise and counterclockwise.

Wonder how it will handle without the +90g on the front bumper. Back to my driveway drift track. At the first pull of the throttle I could tell the difference. The truck was much more responsive and again it was like driving (drifting) a new truck. It was much more nimble and seemed easier to handle. Drifted about 10 minutes or so this way only stopping because of the weather it was getting windy and I was getting cold.

I liked the way the truck handled with the setup so I think now I will leave it alone for a while, practicing with it the way it is now.

There are a few things that need to be done to it.
Out drive are all worn so I will be replacing them
Some of the rod end seen loose and are causing slop in the steering so I will be replacing them with one from RPM]]> Rear diff locked
Front diff one way
90+ grams of weight on the front bumper

Day one I drove (tried to drift it) the way it was setup. I am new to drifting so I really don't have a clue as to what I am doing other than what I have read on the different forums and watching Youtube videos. Seemed to drive alright but what do I know. So that night I decided to try it with out the one way diff so I put the stock open diff in the front.

Day two tried drifting with the new setup it was almost right starting over but after a few minutes I felt I was back to where I left off the afternoon before. After about 15 minutes I felt I had made a little progress and was able to make a few more complete circles. Starting I am just trying to drift around a cone. When I get this down I will progress to 2 cones and a figure 8. I practice the cone circle both clockwise and counterclockwise.

Wonder how it will handle without the +90g on the front bumper. Back to my driveway drift track. At the first pull of the throttle I could tell the difference. The truck was much more responsive and again it was like driving (drifting) a new truck. It was much more nimble and seemed easier to handle. Drifted about 10 minutes or so this way only stopping because of the weather it was getting windy and I was getting cold.

I liked the way the truck handled with the setup so I think now I will leave it alone for a while, practicing with it the way it is now.

There are a few things that need to be done to it.
Out drive are all worn so I will be replacing them
Some of the rod end seen loose and are causing slop in the steering so I will be replacing them with one from RPM]]> https://forum.driftmission.com/showthread.php?tid=11139 Fri, 18 Nov 2016 18:10:02 +0000 Jlieskovan]]> https://forum.driftmission.com/showthread.php?tid=11139
Castle sidewinder 3 
Hpi one way front diff
Rear diff locked with body clips 
12t front drive pulley (counter steer) 
Rpm ball cups 
Savox sc-1257tg

And that's it so far. Looking at doing the yeah racing rwd conversion. The body is a work in progress, it's my first Pandora, how do you all recommend connecting the bumpers? The dude at the shop recommended shoe goo? Seems messy, what do you all use?]]>
Castle sidewinder 3 
Hpi one way front diff
Rear diff locked with body clips 
12t front drive pulley (counter steer) 
Rpm ball cups 
Savox sc-1257tg

And that's it so far. Looking at doing the yeah racing rwd conversion. The body is a work in progress, it's my first Pandora, how do you all recommend connecting the bumpers? The dude at the shop recommended shoe goo? Seems messy, what do you all use?]]> https://forum.driftmission.com/showthread.php?tid=11088 Sat, 05 Nov 2016 23:13:18 +0000 kookieboi]]> https://forum.driftmission.com/showthread.php?tid=11088 All I've done so far is add some adjustable links, an intercooler, MST tires (old and worn), Trackstar servo and Futaba receiver. I like it so far but there isn't much info on the web about using these for drifting. Any suggestions? I'm going to do some tinkering to see what I can get out of this thing.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk]]> All I've done so far is add some adjustable links, an intercooler, MST tires (old and worn), Trackstar servo and Futaba receiver. I like it so far but there isn't much info on the web about using these for drifting. Any suggestions? I'm going to do some tinkering to see what I can get out of this thing.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk]]> https://forum.driftmission.com/showthread.php?tid=11055 Thu, 27 Oct 2016 13:09:48 +0000 BambooSwordBa]]> https://forum.driftmission.com/showthread.php?tid=11055 https://forum.driftmission.com/showthread.php?tid=11007 Sat, 22 Oct 2016 01:31:41 +0000 GearHeadJonny]]> https://forum.driftmission.com/showthread.php?tid=11007
life's too short to not have fun..]]>
life's too short to not have fun..]]> https://forum.driftmission.com/showthread.php?tid=8677 Sat, 27 Aug 2016 19:11:19 +0000 Isle_cruiser]]> https://forum.driftmission.com/showthread.php?tid=8677
I picked up a cheap sprint 2 locally just the other day. This was my very first introduction to these wicked little machines. I scooped this unit which was "only short a battery" and really had no idea what I was getting myself into.



After picking up a battery at a local hobby shop I soon found many things besides the body broken on my new toy. Many things that should have been disclosed and quite honestly I feel stupid for not noticing at the time.

Not only was the motor fried, both front drive shafts are broken, the battery mount posts are not there haha. I thought the body was rough but these belts are ready to let go at any time.... I now see full rebuild happening in my near future. (After I battle all the stripped screws)

Lesson learned, do your research first don't get to excited.... Who am I kidding I've "learned" this lesson many times before haha

**testing pics, will post updates shortly**


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk]]>
I picked up a cheap sprint 2 locally just the other day. This was my very first introduction to these wicked little machines. I scooped this unit which was "only short a battery" and really had no idea what I was getting myself into.



After picking up a battery at a local hobby shop I soon found many things besides the body broken on my new toy. Many things that should have been disclosed and quite honestly I feel stupid for not noticing at the time.

Not only was the motor fried, both front drive shafts are broken, the battery mount posts are not there haha. I thought the body was rough but these belts are ready to let go at any time.... I now see full rebuild happening in my near future. (After I battle all the stripped screws)

Lesson learned, do your research first don't get to excited.... Who am I kidding I've "learned" this lesson many times before haha

**testing pics, will post updates shortly**


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk]]> https://forum.driftmission.com/showthread.php?tid=7718 Sat, 30 Apr 2016 10:41:31 +0000 vlozity]]> https://forum.driftmission.com/showthread.php?tid=7718
]]>
]]> https://forum.driftmission.com/showthread.php?tid=7683 Wed, 20 Apr 2016 16:25:33 +0000 Steve Fox]]> https://forum.driftmission.com/showthread.php?tid=7683
My goals for the car when it was stock:
- More speed/power
- CS
- More steering angle
- better weight distribution

How it sits now:
1.63 CS
Maximum possible steering angle without going RWD


I was originally gonna do a front motor swap, but decided against it, because I didn't want to try to re-engineer my steering under the motor mount. I will probably do front motor on my second S2. 

For more speed, I went with a Novak Drift-spec Brushless motor and ESC, as well as a 27t pinion and 84t spur. I haven't messed with the gearing since going CS. 

For more steering angle, I originally shaved the stock C-hubs, but it wasn't enough. Ended up cutting the top and side part off and just using the bottom plate. To support the top of the knuckles without the full C-hub, I used a set of servo mounts as upper arms. After this, my issue was that the shocks were in the way. I was going to do the traxxas 2wd lower arm swap, but I didn't feel comfortable with the knuckles being held by just a turnbuckle. My solution was to use an IFS kit off an MST FXX to make a monoshock system. With the shocks now out of the way, there's plenty of room, but my angle was still limited by the arms on the wheel knuckle, where the steering linkages connect. I used a set of R31 RWD front knuckles. They don't have a seat for an inner bearing, but Sakura D3 Ultra Wide Angle CVDs sit in here nicely with no binding. With this done, I can max out my angle to the point where the steering arm on the knuckles bumps against my front CVDs. As a bonus, the R31 knuckles make the wheels sit out a tad farther, giving them a bit more clearance and travel. To clean up the slop in the steering rack, I used the posts from an RS4 steering kit and Sprint 2 aluminum arms. Also, I threw in a Savox 1258 metal gear servo.

CSing was pretty straightforward. 12t pulley up front with a 39t swapped onto the front one-way diff. Currently, I'm running a 16t rear pulley while I wait for a bigger belt. Then I'll go 18t rear and eventually 20t as I get used to it. 

For better weight distribution, I started with some weights in the front bumper. Then I moved my receiver forward on the upper deck so it sits right above my servo. Stuck my esc behind the servo and ran my battery front to back on the opposite side. This makes one side weigh a small amount more, but it is still very centralized and balances the weight to the front more. 

I'll upload pics of each bit later today or tomorrow. Here's one overhead shot I've got on hand. Here, you can see the new electronics layout, monoshock, and max lock. 


As far as future mods, I have matching R31 rear hubs coming, another MST FXXIFS kit to run a link between the rear shocks, and a couple fresh sets of tires.]]>
My goals for the car when it was stock:
- More speed/power
- CS
- More steering angle
- better weight distribution

How it sits now:
1.63 CS
Maximum possible steering angle without going RWD


I was originally gonna do a front motor swap, but decided against it, because I didn't want to try to re-engineer my steering under the motor mount. I will probably do front motor on my second S2. 

For more speed, I went with a Novak Drift-spec Brushless motor and ESC, as well as a 27t pinion and 84t spur. I haven't messed with the gearing since going CS. 

For more steering angle, I originally shaved the stock C-hubs, but it wasn't enough. Ended up cutting the top and side part off and just using the bottom plate. To support the top of the knuckles without the full C-hub, I used a set of servo mounts as upper arms. After this, my issue was that the shocks were in the way. I was going to do the traxxas 2wd lower arm swap, but I didn't feel comfortable with the knuckles being held by just a turnbuckle. My solution was to use an IFS kit off an MST FXX to make a monoshock system. With the shocks now out of the way, there's plenty of room, but my angle was still limited by the arms on the wheel knuckle, where the steering linkages connect. I used a set of R31 RWD front knuckles. They don't have a seat for an inner bearing, but Sakura D3 Ultra Wide Angle CVDs sit in here nicely with no binding. With this done, I can max out my angle to the point where the steering arm on the knuckles bumps against my front CVDs. As a bonus, the R31 knuckles make the wheels sit out a tad farther, giving them a bit more clearance and travel. To clean up the slop in the steering rack, I used the posts from an RS4 steering kit and Sprint 2 aluminum arms. Also, I threw in a Savox 1258 metal gear servo.

CSing was pretty straightforward. 12t pulley up front with a 39t swapped onto the front one-way diff. Currently, I'm running a 16t rear pulley while I wait for a bigger belt. Then I'll go 18t rear and eventually 20t as I get used to it. 

For better weight distribution, I started with some weights in the front bumper. Then I moved my receiver forward on the upper deck so it sits right above my servo. Stuck my esc behind the servo and ran my battery front to back on the opposite side. This makes one side weigh a small amount more, but it is still very centralized and balances the weight to the front more. 

I'll upload pics of each bit later today or tomorrow. Here's one overhead shot I've got on hand. Here, you can see the new electronics layout, monoshock, and max lock. 


As far as future mods, I have matching R31 rear hubs coming, another MST FXXIFS kit to run a link between the rear shocks, and a couple fresh sets of tires.]]> https://forum.driftmission.com/showthread.php?tid=7632 Tue, 05 Apr 2016 06:33:30 +0000 20V_MK2]]> https://forum.driftmission.com/showthread.php?tid=7632
I just got into RC drifting. I want to get a feel for drifting and see if I really like it before I spend more on a more capable drift chassis. So far I have been drifting my RS4 Pro 3, which is like 15+ years old. The only thing that I have done to it is put HPI T-Drift tires on it. It actually drifts pretty good, however I feel like I should mod it for more steering angle. So my main question is do you guys think that I could do a c-hub delete? If not I was thinking of shaving down the c-hub where it hits the knuckle(?), also maybe a bit from the knuckle. I have also heard that it will drift a lot better with a one-way diff in the front and a solid diff in the back. Do you guys know if there is a one-way specifically for this chassis? Or maybe one from another chassis that would fit, Sprint 2 looks promising? And finally, would it be worth it to go CS? If it's even possible.

I'm beginning to think that maybe I should just get a more capable chassis, (thinking of a Sakura D4). It would be cool though if I modded my old chassis to drift really well.

Thanks.]]>
I just got into RC drifting. I want to get a feel for drifting and see if I really like it before I spend more on a more capable drift chassis. So far I have been drifting my RS4 Pro 3, which is like 15+ years old. The only thing that I have done to it is put HPI T-Drift tires on it. It actually drifts pretty good, however I feel like I should mod it for more steering angle. So my main question is do you guys think that I could do a c-hub delete? If not I was thinking of shaving down the c-hub where it hits the knuckle(?), also maybe a bit from the knuckle. I have also heard that it will drift a lot better with a one-way diff in the front and a solid diff in the back. Do you guys know if there is a one-way specifically for this chassis? Or maybe one from another chassis that would fit, Sprint 2 looks promising? And finally, would it be worth it to go CS? If it's even possible.

I'm beginning to think that maybe I should just get a more capable chassis, (thinking of a Sakura D4). It would be cool though if I modded my old chassis to drift really well.

Thanks.]]> https://forum.driftmission.com/showthread.php?tid=7393 Thu, 04 Feb 2016 23:53:10 +0000 a.santiago4491]]> https://forum.driftmission.com/showthread.php?tid=7393 this was the outcome. Can anyone tell me what the hell I broke since this is,my,first rc car

Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk]]> this was the outcome. Can anyone tell me what the hell I broke since this is,my,first rc car

Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk]]> https://forum.driftmission.com/showthread.php?tid=7004 Tue, 20 Oct 2015 16:32:08 +0000 Drift84]]> https://forum.driftmission.com/showthread.php?tid=7004




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]]> https://forum.driftmission.com/showthread.php?tid=6974 Mon, 05 Oct 2015 15:15:03 +0000 wareagle84]]> https://forum.driftmission.com/showthread.php?tid=6974
Anybody tried one of these out yet?]]>
Anybody tried one of these out yet?]]> https://forum.driftmission.com/showthread.php?tid=6149 Wed, 11 Mar 2015 01:52:51 +0000 Justin Gonzales]]> https://forum.driftmission.com/showthread.php?tid=6149