(01-28-2014, 02:37 PM)Tiger.T Wrote: [ -> ] (01-09-2014, 09:57 PM)Moletron Wrote: [ -> ]Yeah I like mine and over an HPI I would deffinatly take a d3, sorry. But I we're to go back I think I would have bought a different chassis. Maybe an MST or a Yokomo just because i really dislike the pink and all the sharp points. Also your pretty much limited to 3racing or a few ranom 3 party company's for hop ups where the Yokomo has endless possibilitys. IMO
I strongly disagree with this post.
Besides the chassis upgrades themselves, you can adapt a lot of MST/Yokomo parts on the D3.
I'm currently running DIB Y arms with lots of Active Hobby goodies and 3.45CS.
You just got to be creative and do your homework when buying parts.
any recommendations on one ways? mine took a crap and I'm not really trying to buy another one so it can do the same. wanted to know if you've heard of or seen any other ones ways that fit the D3? Yok, Street Jam, Overdose, ect.
(02-12-2014, 05:58 PM)Moletron Wrote: [ -> ] (01-28-2014, 02:37 PM)Tiger.T Wrote: [ -> ] (01-09-2014, 09:57 PM)Moletron Wrote: [ -> ]Yeah I like mine and over an HPI I would deffinatly take a d3, sorry. But I we're to go back I think I would have bought a different chassis. Maybe an MST or a Yokomo just because i really dislike the pink and all the sharp points. Also your pretty much limited to 3racing or a few ranom 3 party company's for hop ups where the Yokomo has endless possibilitys. IMO
I strongly disagree with this post.
Besides the chassis upgrades themselves, you can adapt a lot of MST/Yokomo parts on the D3.
I'm currently running DIB Y arms with lots of Active Hobby goodies and 3.45CS.
You just got to be creative and do your homework when buying parts.
any recommendations on one ways? mine took a crap and I'm not really trying to buy another one so it can do the same. wanted to know if you've heard of or seen any other ones ways that fit the D3? Yok, Street Jam, Overdose, ect.
If it's the cage that took a crap just order a new one with same dimensions from any local bearing dealers around you. Down here where I live, we have Boca bearings and I just give them type and size and they provide the goods. Unless it's something else like the cup itself that's mangled then you'd have to look for it.
Also I suggest you do a rebuild every two to three month on your one way if you run carpet, and maybe a bit more often if you run asphalt or anything outdoor.
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man ill have to look into that. i never realized you could even take the little roller bearings out of that housing that connects to the pulley. Do you just tap them out or what?
(02-12-2014, 06:19 PM)Moletron Wrote: [ -> ]man ill have to look into that. i never realized you could even take the little roller bearings out of that housing that connects to the pulley. Do you just tap them out or what?
In some instance, it can be easy. I replaced the one on my Yokomo chassis with no issues.
I wouldn't say you tap them out, but you can grab a plier and grab outer part of the bearing sticking out of the housing and pull the bearing out.
Measure the outer size, then measure the outer size of the cup's shaft part ( that's to get your bearing inner diameter, since you can't really get accurate measurement out of the inside of the bearing) and then get the length of the bearing. Then you should be fine to order.
Also, my assumption is that it will be cheaper to get the bearing than replacing the complete FOW, but in some cases, the complete FOW is so cheap that it's not even worth getting the bearings and you're better off buying a new one.
On the other hand, the FOW is cheap because it is made in china, so putting some good SKF bearings instead of crappy chinese one is basically like upgrading your FOW.
When putting the new bearings make sure to put bearing oil in the cage
quick question.....
do we threadlock the grubscrews in the cvd after grinding the flats or no? I would lean to no.... and only add a smidge with a needle later if it loosens too often.
I'm tempted but I'm afraid it will wick everywhere if just a hair too much is used and cause unnecessary friction/binding.
Thanks.
(02-13-2014, 01:58 AM)razar Wrote: [ -> ]quick question.....
do we threadlock the grubscrews in the cvd after grinding the flats or no? I would lean to no.... and only add a smidge with a needle later if it loosens too often.
I use a gel Loctite and I apply to the tip of the screw.
Treadlock also needs time to setup, overnight or 24hrs is best.
If you run it immediately after applying, it won't cure properly.
(01-03-2014, 08:46 AM)Moletron Wrote: [ -> ]so correct me if i'm wrong but this is what iv come up with. So if i switch to 64p and go to a 102t spur and a 23t pinion it will be essentially the same ratio as my stock 48p 80t spur and 18t pinion. But by doing so ill get a spur that the size of a 76.5t 48p.
Don't bother going 64dp.
Smaller gear teeth is harder to properly mesh, much more fragile to pebbles.
Front right tyre kicks up a heap of crap.
So how pleased is everyone with their Sakura chassis overall? They have a carbon version out now with a lot of nice aluminum parts ad the price is right. It seems like the first two pages was everyone so excited about these eBay specials and the other 20 pages is just people trying to figure out how to fix them for dozens of different problems it has. I'm wondering if I should buy this chassis and have more money in the budget for a good radio and servo or if I should go with a max speed MS-01D VIP chassis and start selling my bodily fluids to afford the rest.
IMHO I think MST are crazy overpriced for what you get, especially VIP with alloy bits.
They're popular but their machining quality ain't all that fantastic compared to others,
methinks they're just milking the market's bling addicts.
D3CS was announced in 2012 & there was huge hype before they actually shipped.
Some of it was due to the supercheap price of the kit, from a decent brand name too.
It is a decent design out of the box, but with hindsight 3Rac just found a different
INNOVATIVE way of making punters part with their cash
eg selling a high CS%
chassis that does need a few hopups to make it less challenging to drive.
Best to avoid fake clone yumcha cheapos too, stick with original 3Racing parts.