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(12-17-2012, 12:03 AM)Combat_Drftr Wrote: [ -> ]ok great because my lipo is just a lil too long to fit the stock chassis.. and also what pinion gear would you recommend? running a 3.5t motor (i know kind of overkill), but just want to see how it will run.. got the motor for a deal that i couldnt passup. thanks!

Ok just answered your post on the other forum lol try a 22T with the 80T that will tune down the 3.5 a little then use your radio to limit the power to 70% or so that should bring it close to where I'm at but you will still heat the tyres up too much like I do and they expand when they're hot so they slip off the rims, I don't glue my tyres so I can use the rims again.

thanks for the info I'm still going to grab them, I guess I'll find out if it was a quality issue or not.

(12-22-2012, 12:53 AM)Dorvack Wrote: [ -> ]Even with the bearings shimmed you might have issues with the toe-out and bump steer, and the new parts give you even less space underneath to fit a ball link and tie rod to connect the sweepers.

I think the problems will be particularly bad for those with cut or deleted c-hubs...

But give them a go.

Dorvack.

Yeah I may just have to keep the modded setup I have but I just want to check em out anyway

Not good news. Will be good to hear if it is a quality issue or not tho.

(12-22-2012, 06:23 AM)Dorvack Wrote: [ -> ]

(12-22-2012, 06:02 AM)skr8pn Wrote: [ -> ]Not good news. Will be good to hear if it is a quality issue or not tho.

True, but most of the issues are just down to bad design, the only positive being the shortening of the sweeper servo arm to allow for more throw without interfering with the right wheel.

Dorvack.

I wouldn't be happy if I purchased them and that was the only gain. Is the bump steer enormous or barely noticeable?

(12-22-2012, 11:49 PM)Dorvack Wrote: [ -> ]Flipping the knuckles seems to be the trick. Now I have less bump steer and the binding from the increased angle of the steering link is gone.

Dorvack.

I don't think that applies to me cause of my MST knuckles

Wheres the best placement for the centre belt tensioner? middle, close to the rear pulley posts? pushing down from the top of the belt? etc etc

you don't really need to worry about a tensioner use washers under the rear pulley mount. I found the a 1mm M3 washer under the front screws and a 0.5mm M3 washer under the rear screws was enough to get a good tension on the centre belt! How ever I did use a tensioner in the centre with a yokomo  DRB-RBIP idler pulley pushing the bottom belt down
 

(01-01-2013, 10:41 PM)pickled Wrote: [ -> ]you don't really need to worry about a tensioner use washers under the rear pulley mount. I found the a 1mm M3 washer under the front screws and a 0.5mm M3 washer under the rear screws was enough to get a good tension on the centre belt! How ever I did use a tensioner in the centre with a yokomo  DRB-RBIP idler pulley pushing the bottom belt down
 

Kool Kool, this is what I've done so far, I posted this a few days ago in the wrong thread though, lol my bad. Can ball bearings be used instead for the toothed side of the belt? Iv'e got some TA-03 tensioners I could use, My belts have frayed even with this setup, how tight should the belts be, 2mm in movement? I found by adjusting the rear screws it tilts the pulley post back and forward, seems strong too, finding the middle ground has been the issues, because if I tighten the centre belt it loosens the rear belt and vice a versa, Cheers!! sorry for the ?'s lol[attachment=198][attachment=199][attachment=200]

you need a washer under the rear like I mentioned above, the belt frays because the rear pulley mount isn't exactly in line and tries to climb the pulley wall